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Found 6 results

  1. I am getting ready to split my 886 for the first time. It's time for a clutch, and I figured I would do the rear main seal at the same time. It's a D360 - and the manual calls for a install tool. It's pretty pricey, but I'm assuming it's necessary? Also, what else should I be looking at or replacing while it's split? I only want to do it once. Thanks!
  2. Hi Guy's. I have an IH 674 that the clutch was changed a couple years ago and then never used. I bought it and it doesn't release when the clutch peddle is depressed to the bottom. I have adjusted it to have the longest throw possible and it still stays somewhat engaged. The only way to shift gears (without grinding the crap out of the gears) is to shut the engine off, shift and start it up again. I have sprayed WD40 into the access panel under the clutch assembly, but nothing. Any ideas or personal experience would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
  3. I was just reading Richard B's post about the screaming 460. I'm hoping my problem is similar and not more serious. My dad has a 1962 806, 6cyl gas. He's had it about 6 or 7 years, don't have any history on it, he hardly ever uses it. It's always started and ran fine. It pretty much sat the entire summer, and on New Years Day I was going to blow some snow with it. It started fine, I went inside to let it warm up, came out about 15min later. I got in to idle it up, and it seemed like I had to give it more throttle than necessary to increase RPM. I got out and it started to bog down like it was under a load, gave a sort of a squeal and quit. I haven't been able to get it to turn over since. My first thought was a rod or main bearing. If I put it in neutral, I can pull it easily. If I pull it while it's in gear, the transmission won't disengage even if I push in the clutch. I took the inspection plate off the bell housing next to the starter, and I can barely turn it over with a pry bar. (spark plugs removed) Has anyone else experienced something similar. I drained the oil and no filings, pieces, or anything sparkly. I'm wondering what else to check before I split it.
  4. New to the forum, looking for some guidance with a clutch problem. I have a caseih C80 MFD; bought new approx. 25 years ago, been running great. I now have a clutch problem; behaves as if the clutch is disconnected. "It was working fine when I parked it." The next day when started up, depressing the clutch pedal seemes to have no effect. With range in any of Reverse/Low/High, attempting to shift from neutral into any of the 4 speeds begins to move the tractor, whether the clutch pedal is depressed or not. If I nudge towards 2nd the tractor wants to move and then I can quickly shift into 1st; similarly, nudging towards 4th then shifting into 3rd works. If speed is in neutral, I can shift into Reverse / Low / High range. The pedal has never been adjusted, and has no adjustment left in it; all the adjustments are at the end of the threads. I've tried disconnecting the cable and using an appropriate lever to move it but it only has about a cm of throw and behaves no differently. I don't know what the throw was when it was working, maybe no more than what it still has. I can't see the far end of the cable very well, as it terminates under the seat platform forward of the fuel tank. I am going to try to remove the seat platform tomorrow but not sure how easy that is going to be; according to the service manual, you have to remove the ROPS, wheels and fuel tank at the same time. There's no information I can find in the service manual about the mechanism where the far end of the clutch cable connects. There's a section on "Engine Clutch" which talks about and has diagrams of the friction plate, pressure plate, etc, and a section on adjusting the clutch pedal itself, but nothing about adjusting the cable itself. There are photos of the speed selector levers and others, but nothing of where the clutch cable connects. Thanks for any insights, Gary
  5. I recently changed the clutch pressure plate, pressure disk, pilot and throw-out bearing + the clutch release bearing carrier (all like stock from Stiener tractor) on my 504 utility IH tractor. I set the linkage action according to the manual specs for petal travel. The clutch actions well on the pressure fingers, but I'm not able to shift gears when I fire the tractor up?? I grind the gears if I try. I thought it must be I am not pressing deeply enough, so I adjusted the linkage to tighten on the pressure fingers and even that does not let me shift. For some reason I am not disengaging the flywheel spin enough to shift?? I'm stumped! I need to sell this tractor soon. I tried driving the tractor around and pushing the clutch in an out to burnish the clutch into working, but to no avail. I've split the tractor 3 times now to see if anything was installed incorrect, but all is in as described in the manual.
  6. Hello all, I am new to this board and case ih maxxum tractors. Due to the snow and difficult cattle feeding conditions I bought a 5240 with a loader and MFD to make things easier. So far that has not been the case. I bought it from an individual not a dealer. It has around 6000 hours. I love the tractor. It handles my ranch chores and the snowblower really well. I hauled it home and unloaded it to find 4th gear on the power shift quit working. Searched google and found this site. Pushed relays back in and problem solved. Then I replaced the water pump. I knew it had a leak just was not sure where when I bought it. Put on about ten hours feeding and blowing snow everything worked well. Then while feeding I noticed it wouldn't always move after changing ranges. So I would push in the clutch and shift out and back into the range and away it would go. Then a few shifts later it quit moving with the clutch all the way out. I drove it back to the yard with the clutch pushed in about an inch so I could plug the block heater in. Having about zero degree weather. If I let the clutch out all the way it would roll to a stop. I did some hunting and talking to local case ih service guys and checked the clutch switches with a continuity tester. They seem to work correctly. I also swapped the switches. I have 4 terminal switches. However with some experimenting I discovered by putting a jumper between the two terminals on the lower clutch pedal switch which in essence keeps the switch closed the tractors shifts and drives like normal and all the ranges and power shifts and reverser function correctly. After further discussion with the service techs we decided to replace the shuttle and transmission control relays. I bought two new 1987409c2 relays and installed them. Now the tractor won't move at all. If I reinstall the old relay in the transmission control location the tractor works if I leave my jumper wire on the clutch switch. The relay that I reinstalled in the transmission control location which is the lower right hand corner of the fuse panel has a different wiring schematic than my new relays it is a bosch pn 0332019150 see pic. The new relay schematic is shown in white. However my tractor functions with the grey bosch. This is becoming quite frustrating. I want my tractor working. Thanks in advance for your help.
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