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Found 11 results

  1. I recently changed the clutch pressure plate, pressure disk, pilot and throw-out bearing + the clutch release bearing carrier (all like stock from Stiener tractor) on my 504 utility IH tractor. I set the linkage action according to the manual specs for petal travel. The clutch actions well on the pressure fingers, but I'm not able to shift gears when I fire the tractor up?? I grind the gears if I try. I thought it must be I am not pressing deeply enough, so I adjusted the linkage to tighten on the pressure fingers and even that does not let me shift. For some reason I am not disengaging the flywheel spin enough to shift?? I'm stumped! I need to sell this tractor soon. I tried driving the tractor around and pushing the clutch in an out to burnish the clutch into working, but to no avail. I've split the tractor 3 times now to see if anything was installed incorrect, but all is in as described in the manual.
  2. Hi, Im about to remove a steering clutch pack from a td9B, the book says you need a tool to compress the clutch, just wondering if anyone would have the dimensions for the tool so i can make it up before i go to the machine. Any info would be greatly appreciated Thanks
  3. 706 clutch/trans brake

    Hey guys. I bought a 706 with a bad clutch a while ago and have finally had time to get it split and a new clutch installed. I have everything reassembled and went to try moving it for the first time and it still would not go into gear properly you can slip into gear and when it is moving you can push the clutch in all the way and it does not stop it slows down a bit but does not stop. So I looked in the bottom cover and everything is moving as it should. So I figured it had to be the trans brake so I took the cover off with the trans brake and there is about and 1/8th inch of pad left on it is this enough? Also there was a good amount of leather in by the drain plug in the same cover from a seal I am thinking? Any ideas on this would be greatly appreciated.
  4. Clutch or torque slippage

    Hello all I recently put a d312 in my 666 tractor. I purchased a new flywheel, clutch plate, and pressure plate. Installed via directions, and fully adjusted. The problem is that I can make something slip. I don't think it is the clutch, but I don't know for sure. I can put it in road gear and slam the throttle wide open and it will slip. Or if I hold the brakes, it will slip. (Which it is, I don't know.) The torque seemed to hold with the gas motor that was in it(although I didn't run it long). Can I take a cover off and look at the mechanical torque condition? Thank you, any in sight would be appreciated.
  5. #10 Grain Drill Clutch

    Our #10 grain drill stopped shutting off the seed when lifted at the end of the last field last year. The arm circled in red broke off, so the cams never disengage the clutch. I was wondering if anyone would have one of these lying around somewhere or know of someplace that has one of these for parts? I've called the local junk yards and all of them pretty much told me that if it is a conventional drill (not no-till) it goes immediately on a slow boat to China; they don't keep them around for parts... Thanks.
  6. I smell something burning!

    Hi Guys, We got a solid dump of snow this week and i finally got to really put a hard load on my B414's PTO. I get the feeling this tractor sat for 15+ years before i got it and this is the first real load i put on the PTO. I got a burning clutch smell at first ( this one has the two stage clutch for live pto ) I did not notice a drop in pto speed and wonder if it was cause i was riding the clutch to let the blower catch up or was the disc set just dirty and glazed burning the old junk out from a lack of action over the years. I was planning an in-frame engine job this summer... should i just bite the bullet and split the tractor to check the clutch discs ?I inspected the clutch when I had the belly cover off this summer. I was chasing a leak ( found the leak was coming form the transmission input seal.. the trans was full of water ) i did not see any clutch powder build up while i was in there cleaning up the oil. everything looked good except for the throw bearing carrier and fork seem to have a lot of play. Have you guys ever experience this with tractors that got a solid workout for the first time in years ?
  7. 1466 cab, clutch assist booster, exc

    So I purchased a 1466 with a cab on a estate auction a couple months ago. This tractor after a little work is running well. However it is extremely hard to push the clutch in. I was thinking of adding a clutch assist booster kit. thoughts? Another thing is it has a cab on it and my partner wants it to stay. The heater does not work or a/c and the cab is in a little ruff shape. I was wondering do I spen the money on the cab and tear it down and fix it up? even the knobs inside the cab are all froze up as well. I was wondering how hard it is to take the roof off the cab to check things out internally. Like fan motor, compressor, all of that stuff to see what it looks like. Any thoughts or pointers on what to do with this project?
  8. Help my "new" 5240 won't move

    Hello all, I am new to this board and case ih maxxum tractors. Due to the snow and difficult cattle feeding conditions I bought a 5240 with a loader and MFD to make things easier. So far that has not been the case. I bought it from an individual not a dealer. It has around 6000 hours. I love the tractor. It handles my ranch chores and the snowblower really well. I hauled it home and unloaded it to find 4th gear on the power shift quit working. Searched google and found this site. Pushed relays back in and problem solved. Then I replaced the water pump. I knew it had a leak just was not sure where when I bought it. Put on about ten hours feeding and blowing snow everything worked well. Then while feeding I noticed it wouldn't always move after changing ranges. So I would push in the clutch and shift out and back into the range and away it would go. Then a few shifts later it quit moving with the clutch all the way out. I drove it back to the yard with the clutch pushed in about an inch so I could plug the block heater in. Having about zero degree weather. If I let the clutch out all the way it would roll to a stop. I did some hunting and talking to local case ih service guys and checked the clutch switches with a continuity tester. They seem to work correctly. I also swapped the switches. I have 4 terminal switches. However with some experimenting I discovered by putting a jumper between the two terminals on the lower clutch pedal switch which in essence keeps the switch closed the tractors shifts and drives like normal and all the ranges and power shifts and reverser function correctly. After further discussion with the service techs we decided to replace the shuttle and transmission control relays. I bought two new 1987409c2 relays and installed them. Now the tractor won't move at all. If I reinstall the old relay in the transmission control location the tractor works if I leave my jumper wire on the clutch switch. The relay that I reinstalled in the transmission control location which is the lower right hand corner of the fuse panel has a different wiring schematic than my new relays it is a bosch pn 0332019150 see pic. The new relay schematic is shown in white. However my tractor functions with the grey bosch. This is becoming quite frustrating. I want my tractor working. Thanks in advance for your help.
  9. Farmall B clutch adjustment

    Just putting a B back together. Complete major overall. I didn't change the clutch, pressure plate or throw out bearing as the looked fine. Lots of clutch pad, no wear on the flywheel and the fingers showed little to no wear. The clutch engages and disengages just fine but I have almost 3 inches of free travel. This is a school project and clutch travel has to be to spec which is 1.5 inches. Any ideas? Anything is appreciated. Thanks
  10. Splitting a 3388 2+2. Tips?

    The release bearing bound up and I think it damaged my pressure plate. I was planning on hiring out the job earlier in the season but have some time now to tackle it myself. My service manual does not explain in detail the steps to best separate the tractor. Who has done it and how? I have read that some guys can do it in as quick as 12 hrs but no explanation or steps for separating. I have a good set of splitting stands to work with. Any help would be appreciated.
  11. 1086 Clutch or MCV

    Looking for some input on this. Using round baler on IH1086 and while ejecting round bale, in low, range 3 gear. I had clutch pedal depressed and the tractor started to move forward with clutch pedal fully depressed. After shutdown, I found that the linkage pin connecting the rod to MCV dump valve spool missing. I replaced with a new pin, but the clutch still will not work. Did two things break at the exact same time or am I missing something?