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Found 5 results

  1. B,I,U,
  2. roymac

    tx146

    Hello, this is the first time I have posted anything although I have been following the forum for a while. I have a 5088 that is still a major workhorse on our farm. My mechanic noticed last fall that the serial # was a tx146. I was just curious if anyone else has one or if anyone knows how many were built.
  3. I believe I understand correctly that there should be a timing pin near the crankshaft pulley, but I do not have one. Can anyone tell me if I'm just not seeing it or if mine has broken off? If it is gone, where do I put the replacement? Thanks in advance for the advice and encouragement you've given so far on this board.
  4. I'm at my wit's end over this crankshaft pulley on my 1940 B. I tried half inch bolts and althread in the crankshaft hole with no luck. I tried a half inch tap to chase the thread and it ate the end of my tap. I tried a 7/16 fine thread tap and it went in fine. I then tried 7/16 althread and it pulled out without getting started. I can't get a half inch fine thread bolt or althread even started into the hole. The threads are not boogered up and I'm officially stuck. Yesterday afternoon I tried grade 5 half-inch course thread, both bolts and althread. No luck. This pulley has a hole for a set crew, but nothing in it. If I could find anything between 1/2" inch and 7/16" I would use that, but nobody has such a creature. I put it in the oven at 400 degrees for about an hour last night and it went on a little easier at first, then stopped with about 3/4" left to get it on completely; I used welding gloves rather than run the risk of my wife making me sleep in the barn with this tractor if I used her oven mitts on this thing. I got it on the shaft and lined up with the woodruff key then my dad held a 2x6 block against the pulley and I hit it until I split two pieces of 2x6, and it finally stopped as I said before, with roughly 3/4" left to go. I don't like the idea of hitting it and running the risk of messing up connecting rods or bearings. I admit that I'm no machinist. I don't have any Farmall guys around me that I can call on for advice or even invite over to sit on a bucket and give my advice. Both of my grandfathers were pretty fair machinists, but they've both been gone for years and I have no brothers or cousins in the tractor mechanic business that I can call on for advice. It's just me trying to get this tractor running for our little girls who are expecting daddy to perform a miracle in the barn and make their pretty red tractor that they've been waiting for nearly a year on to be fixed. I am open to any suggestions. And if anyone feels the need to publicly berate me as another member did on another tractor site by telling me that I didn't know what I was doing, that I better just quit, and that I needed to take it to someone who knew what they were doing, then I guess go ahead, too. Thanks in advance and God's Blessings on you all.
  5. Long story short, I had my 113 in my B rebuilt in a machine shop that is high volume and does reputable work. They left the push rods out because I was going to try and find another valve train assembly off of another B that a friend of mine had. I found one, took it off and brought it home, put the push rods in- numbered and re-installed in trhe same order they came out- and this is the result. Are the gaps the result of my not having turned the crankshaft enough, thus creating rhe gaps between the tops of the push rods and the cups on the tappets? I grew up with Moline equipment and never worked in IH tractors until recently. Anybody have any ideas? I have other questions about timing marks on timing gear and governor, but I'll save that for another posting. Any help is most welcome and appreciated.
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