Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'IH'.

More search options

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


  • Boards
    • General IH
    • Coffee Shop
    • Projects, Builds, & Restorations
    • Support
    • Announcements
    • IH Construction Equipment
    • IH Trucks
    • IH Engines
    • Cub Cadets
    • IH Toys, Memorabilia & Collectibles
  • Archives
    • Archived Posts

Find results in...

Find results that contain...

Date Created

  • Start


Last Updated

  • Start


Filter by number of...


  • Start





Website URL







Found 28 results

  1. Has anyone installed an overflow tube in the carb float bowl? Specifically for the Marvel Schebler TSX series, I'd be very interested in any info or tips on this from someone who has done it. The background - I've had an ongoing problem with flooding on my IH 444. I know I need to go over the whole fuel system, tank to inlet screen, to make it clean, but I figured this would be a useful backup. With an overflow tube, if the needle or float does get stuck, the gas would run out on the ground instead of into the intake manifold, stalling out the engine. (And trying to restart a flooded engine has resulted in ignition problems as well). I've done this on a motorcycle before, a Kawasaki Concours. Known for an occasional bent connecting rod from a combustion chamber full of liquid gasoline after the gas petcock went bad and the float valve also stuck. So it was a fairly common mod in the group of Concours owners, as insurance against engine damage. The basic idea is drilling out a hole in the bottom of the float bowl, and pressing in a brass tube. The top of the tube has to be higher than the normal fuel level. But on the Concours, I had instructions from someone who had done it and documented it. Very handy. So if someone has experience with this on a carb similar to what I have on my 444, I'd sure appreciate hearing from you! Keith
  2. 4th gen ih lover

    Ih 6788 2+2

    I'm looking for some information on 6788s that I can't seem to find anywhere. I would like to buy one so I'm curious about a couple of things. What is the actual top road speed of one? I have an original broucher that says they only do 16 but the Nebraska tractor test says they do 20. Next is what is the axle size? I've heard a couple of different things. We have a 3588 that was bought new by my grandfather and the rear end is not built heavy enough for what we need and was wondering how the 6788 or 6588 would compare since they are set on the 88 series and not the 86 series like 3588 is. Finally, if the engine is completely rebuilt from the ground up, how much power can you get out of the dt466 safely? The 7488 was at 235 hp but I didn't know if anyone had any experience in this area. Any info would be greatly appreciated, thanks!
  3. Its kind of funny to me anyway watching the guy. I can't get the sound to work on either my computer or IPhone so it might be just the video. But you can guess most of the time what he is saying. Silent Allis Chalmers
  4. tw77

    Hydraulic fluid

    Has anyone ever used schaeffer hydraulic oil in place of hytran? We use their synthetic engine oil and it is very high quality and a great all around product. The salesman wanted us to try their hydraulic fluid on our hydro 84 but not sure what to do. He claimed that the newest hytran doesn't meet the specs that it used to. Any thoughts?
  5. Hello everyone - Greetings from Charlotte, NC. Unfortunately, my father passed away recently (he was 58) and I'm left with three Internationals: 1966 806D (pictured), 1967 806D, 1974 1466 These tractors were never show ponies - always work horses on a dairy. He bought the '66 806 before I was born (I'm 29). Because of this, they're all in need of a good amount of work - particularly the 806s, they both need a new clutch. I don't want to sell the tractors - I'd like to keep them and restore as I find time & money. Although I spent the first 20 years of my life milking cows, stacking hay, and cutting silage - I stepped away from that after college and now work in engineering. It's safe to say that these old tractors inspired my fascination with engineering and mechanical stuff. My first goal is to get them all running - some have been sitting for a few years, but were all running when parked. The '66 806 just required a new battery and a shot of ether to fire right up. I suspect the others will be the same. This will take years of work and tons of money, but hopefully it'll be worth it in the end. I'm sure I'll need the help and support of this community. Pictures of the other tractors to come shortly. Thanks, -Chad
  6. Tleveronne

    895case ih pto problems....

    I have an 895 case ih cab Tractor. The pto does not work. I have completed all tests. I have 0psi coming out of MCV. All valves are good. I have come to find out that the fluid used for the pto comes from the steering return, which comes back into the MCV. I am NOT getting any fluid from steering return at MCV. Steering works great. The line that connects to the MCV steering return port is connected to the top of trans under cab. The line coming from the steering box is dumping into the top of trans about 2 inches back of where the other line comes out. My Question... What does the oil supply or go to before coming back out of trans? And why wouldn’t I have fluid coming out? Thanks
  7. Howdy, I'm new here but not new to the Red World! I am currently in the middle of restoring a "L54-A" plow to use with my 1953 Cub. The "Correct Police" may squawk at the "L54-A" identification, but I choose to label it thus since my plow is composed of components from both the Lowboy L-54 and the regular Cub 54-A Grader plow. That said, I have also posted a video of my progress so far on my youtube channel I look forward to enjoying this site and getting to know some of the others here. -Tom The direct link to the video can be found here:
  8. I recently bought a Farmall M and it came with this air cleaner. Looking for information on it as I can't seem to find much online. This tractor did have multiple aftermarket options, m&w stuff mostly. If it don't belong on an M what models would this belong on? Thanks for any info
  9. Duckman328

    IH Plow Identification

    Can anyone point me in the identification of this plow? Being told it is an IH from the 30's. I am not sure but was wondering if a guy could possibly take off one plow and use it as a single bottom? I have a little Farmall B and want to use it to plow up some areas in the woods/food plots next year. This one is priced right! Thanks
  10. Having troubles with my Case IH C50 starting. At times nothing happens when the ignition key is turned to start. It seems to be a problem in the starter interlock system, however I do not have access to any wiring diagrams to show how this circuit is wired. Any help understanding the interlock system and wiring would be much appreciated.
  11. lobello.tony

    IH Disk needs ID

    Trying to identify this International disk that I picked up at auction. Can't seem to find any info on it. Anybody out there have ideas?
  12. jondelodder

    303 combine Ignition switch

    Hi Everyone! I'm working on the 303 again and I bent the starting switch (long story) and I was wondering where I could get a new one if anyone knows of any sites or a specific switch to get. I was looking at Steiner Tractors parts and they have a few, just didn't know which one would fit on it. Any help would be very appreciated! Jon
  13. Texas Tony

    Hydraulics are one way or the other

    So I hook up a new hydraulic cylinder yesterday to a shredder and it's either all the way up or all the way down: there is no stopping anywhere in between with the cylinder. Three point is working fine... picked up to round bales and set them out and it holds 1,400lb bales up with no problem. But I'm thinking it's in the valve or assembly that the levers are attached to on the floor of the tractor cab beside your right leg. There's no way to "bump" the lever to raise or lower the cylinder a little bit at a time. Ideas? Suggestions?
  14. jondelodder

    303 combine tires and rims worth

    Hi everyone, I'm looking to buy some tires and rims for my 303 combine. I'm going down to Indiana to pick some up and I'm going to post some pictures of them. I'm buying all four tires and rims. They want $450 for them all and I'm wondering if that's a fair deal. Thank you!
  15. jondelodder

    IH 303 combine tire size

    Hi everyone! I need some help. I am unable to check the tire size on my 303 combine (long story) and I'm wondering if anyone knows the standard size of them. I have an early model 303 combine. I'm going down to salvage yard to buy new ones because I just don't like the rice tires I have on mine. Any help is very appreciated! Thanks ~Jon
  16. Hi, Folks. The 2017 Best Of The West Show at santa Margarita Ranch, CA., is over and done and what a show it was. Here is a link to a video by Galynn Ferris of some of the IH machinery at the show, including working and in the grand parade. Enjoy. Just my 0.02. You all have a wonderful day. Best wishes. Deas Plant.
  17. Most all of us have some IH treasures , Well go ahead and post up a picture or 3 and share em' here with the crew I just got this watch fob in the mail ( ebay find ) cost me 99 cents and $4 shipping LOL decided to spit polish it and let the buffer shine it up , Is it a TD18 or 24 ?? Any info on the dealer "Rish Equip"
  18. Jessielogue

    1066 won't start

    I have a 1066 that one day won't start, never engages the starter. Batteries are a few months old and fully charged. I've cleaned the cables.With my tester I show I have 12 volts going to the starter solenoid. With the key on, with the clutch pushed in when I push the starter button then my gauges go from working to going off, i then wired the clutch switch wires together and now my gauges stay on when I try to start but still it doesn't try to start, where to go from here? Solenoid?
  19. chadd

    #10 Grain Drill Clutch

    Our #10 grain drill stopped shutting off the seed when lifted at the end of the last field last year. The arm circled in red broke off, so the cams never disengage the clutch. I was wondering if anyone would have one of these lying around somewhere or know of someplace that has one of these for parts? I've called the local junk yards and all of them pretty much told me that if it is a conventional drill (not no-till) it goes immediately on a slow boat to China; they don't keep them around for parts... Thanks.
  20. SSG Sutherland

    Hydraulic capacity for IH 500 dozer 1967

    Does anyone know how much hydraulic fluid goes in a 1967 IH 500 dozer. It has 2 fill places one by the shifter on transmission and one under seat.
  21. JCFarms

    1968 IH 1256

    I have an IH 1256. The rear axles went under water during a flood. I didn't know that the oil got replaced with flood water. I started it up and pumped water into what ever it went into. I've drained the oil. Only pulled all the plugs from under the tractor and pulled the filter. What else should I drain, check? Also it has tilt steering. The PO welded the joint to the motor shaft. I want to change the hand pump or motor, what ever you want to call it. My 2nd question is, are the tilt and non tilt steering motors( hand pump) the same? Reason I ask is there's a guy on eBay selling them with a description of tilt or no tilt. The only difference I see is it appears that the tilt has a spacer on the shaft. Please help and thanks in advance for all who reply.
  22. BinderGuyKyle

    What's for sale

    What's out there for sale for a International Cabover Medium duty, 1950s - mid 70s
  23. I am having issues with the automatic head control on a IH 1460 using a 820 beans head. The combine uses electric over hydraulic. I am hoping someone can give me some advice to narrow down the problem. Here are the symptoms. In the past, when the head control was on, we could momentarily press the down button and the head would lower fully and then "float" back up to the set height. This year when I press the button it behave in a number of different ways. Sometimes the head will lower, but it will stop at the bottom and not "float" back up. Other time when I monetarily press the down button, it will drop, but it stutters as it goes down and just stops at the end. It does not float back up. Sometimes, I need to keep the button depressed until it bottoms out. When I release the button, it will rise to a set level on its owns. Sometimes it will not drop at all when I press and hold the down button. After i hold it for a few seconds, it will eventually drop. When it is down and I turn the height knob, it will raise and lower to a new height, but it seems to make big jumps. Even when the head raised to a level on its own after lowering it, it does not float. I tried lowering the head on a 2x4. With the head down, I pull up on the 2x4 to simulate going over uneven ground, the head did not react. I measured the voltage at the POT. I had 8,4volts. and 4.7 volts . I measured the resistance of the POT. With the head in the air, it was around 500ohms. AS I pulled up on the 2x4, I could see the resistance change to up over 1000 ohms as the 2x4 was pulled up and let down (pulling up on the flex head). We have the engine oil pressure switch for the header bypassed to rule out that issue. Looking at the schematic in the owners manual, it appears everything goes in and out of a Automatic header controller. I am starting to wonder if that is the issue. Can anyone give me some idea what to test and what to look for to narrow down the issue? I greatly appreciate any advice. Thanks in advance Dave
  24. Vincent0522

    IH Drott Skid Shovel

    Hi Guys, great forum. I've been digging through it looking for info on a tractor I just bought-my first. I've got a lot of work to do and after thinking about all the ways it could go, and the cost, decided to buy an old tractor and do it myself. Never drove one before and know very little about them. I found an International (Drott Skid Shovel) for sale and went for it. The seller knew very little about it as it was left to him. What I knew was that with a jump it started up quick and sounded solid. The bucket works good and raises high, the scraper works good, the brakes good, forward and reverse good, right turns good, left not so hot but goes with a little coaxing. 500 hours on it. Some seals leak a little. The guy said it was a diesel but it is a gas engine. MODEL # 340K3 SERIAL # A2673 I'm a metal fabricator and have been working on cars for 20+ years but this is a new area for me. The first thing I've been trying to figure out is exactly what I bought and where I can get a service manual. From this site and Yesterday's Tractors I think I have a 1960 T340 with a gas engine, but still can't find a service manual. If anyone can confirm I'm right or wrong I'd be grateful (see photos in gallery), and any advice on the manual or anything else would be great at this point. I've driven it about 100 yards and want to run through it all a little before I really start pushing it. I fired it up today and moved it around a bit. Everything seems to work great except turning left. When turning right the lever immediately engages and the tractor begins spinning. When turning left I can feel the play in the lever. As I pull it back it seems to do nothing until it's almost all the way back. At the last inch or so of throw it engages and turns a bit. If I go slow and keep pulling it back and forth it turns left one little bit at a time. This is the main issue I'd like to figure out how to fix. Also, leaking seals on half of the hydraulics. I thought if I could get a manual there would be a part number or spec for a seal I could get, but an old timer up the road came by and was telling me the old models like this don't have seals but packing material that is cut to fit. All new to me and would like to confirm this too and get those sealed up. Thanks.
  25. Tbrown

    IH 5088 heater not working

    I have a IH 5088 that I asked a questions about the egt a few weeks ago. I got that linned out. Now the only thing left to get working is the heater. Does anyone have any suggestions on where to start on diagnosing this? the AC works great and the fan works great. The air just doesn't get warm.