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Found 6 results

  1. A guy messaged my wife on fb. Wanting to know if I still had the 966 for sale. She was kinda short with him, its been on there a while and she gets tired of the cold leads. Well turns out he used to own it has JJ dinomite painted on the hood its been gone from him near 30 years. He said the local dealer Jacobi in palmyra did a bunch of work to the engine. It seems strange to me. But said it was set up to pull anything a 1206 would?? Why would you compare a 1206 &966.
  2. This is my first post in any forum ever. So bear with me, I'm old and tend to ramble. I post here to ask the community for their advice and recommendations. I have a F 966 #2510175U009030, built I believe in 1971. This ole girl is located at a hunting, fishing lodge on the shores of Big Sand Lake in northern Manitoba Canada. The tractor was purchased new and driven up on a winter road that no longer exists. We are a fly in lodge with our own unimproved runway. Everything we get must be flown up to us at great expense. This machine has been used hard by many different people every summer of its life. Some of these operators were not as qualified as others and now she is showing the injuries of this hard life. Even with the hard use this tractor runs like it did in 71. Purrs like a kitten. I wish every engine I have ever had held up like this one. Now for the bad stuff and why I need advice. As the years passed by the transmissions have received the majority of the abuse. From the shifting linkages on the column to the internal components of both sections. We are down to one forward and one reverse gear range that can only be selected when the engine is not running. Example put the tractor in forward using a old oar handle to move the linkage at the base of the column, start the engine, let out on the clutch and head on down the road, push the clutch in, stop the tractor , turn off the engine, use the oar handle to select reverse, start the engine, let out the clutch and back up. When the engine is running, even with the clutch fully depressed the gears continue to spin and shifting is impossible. Last summer I replaced the transmission brake and installed the modified linkage. Adjusted the new linkage to provide the greatest amount of pressure to stop the spinning gears and this made no improvement. When I removed the access cover that holds the trans brake I found the remains of the torque assist clutches which explained why the torque assist has not work for many years. If this tractor was at my home in Tennessee I would not hesitate to split the sections and dive in. I could re-manufacture the shifting linkages. New arms, bushings. I have a tractor grave yard just up the road for spare parts. However, where it is located we have no heavy lifting equipment, no holding jigs to support the sections, no machine shop. What would the community do? Try to fix her up or retire her with gratefulness for a long service. Keep it in mind that to replace her we have to buy a replacement, wait until winter when the lakes are frozen, cut a winter road through the bush about 150 miles long to get the replacement on site. Or Fly in the parts, jigs, special tools, expertise on a Basler aircraft which has a cargo capacity of about 18,000 lbs. and costs about $7000 one way. We cannot live without a workhorse like this tractor. Runway maintenance is not the only job we require of her. There are many, many others. Thank you for your consideration and sage advice.
  3. Needed a tractor to leave on the grain vac all the time since I’ve been doing so much custom grain vac stuff lately. Not really a black stripe though
  4. MarkG

    TA help

    Finally started putting the 966 back together. Installed the TA from Hy-Capacity. Checked play. Had .015 with no shims. Installed the counter shaft, gears, and spacers. There is no play at all in the gears. Everything rotates fine. The shaft, gears, spacers, and bearing move about .020. The play is in the outer race of the roller bearing. The transmission has been rebuilt before by the looks of the counter-shaft nut. The counter-shaft had a ball bearing at the rear. The outer race fit was extremely snug but could be moved by hand. I upgraded the new bearing to a roller bearing. The fit is exactly the same ( difficult to line up and install, but once it’s in you can move it by hand ). There is a snap ring in a groove on the outside of the race. This snap ring is controlling all movement of the shaft. There is a recess in the casting which the snap ring goes into. The play is between the recess and the plate that is bolted on the back. Is this normal? Is it ok for the gears and spacers on the counter shaft to be tight? The instructions with the TA said to shim the gears to the same play as the TA. The TA came with shims to put between the gears and spacers. All help appreciated. Mark
  5. S plemmons

    966 ta

    My 966 freewheels sometimes with ta in hi or lo! Sometimes works fine! Whats everyones opinion on cause? Thanks
  6. Getting the rest of my malting barley out of the bag before the deer destroy any more of it. They have figured out how to make holes in it. Walked all over the front of the bag, punching it full of holes that funneled rain into it, where they did that there's six inches of soaked, sprouting grain. Cattle feed now, at least the borrowed vacuum makes it easy to leave that behind and get out the good stuff!
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