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Found 14 results

  1. The water pump went out while mowing hay a few weeks ago about time to fix it. Looked them up on internet. Not to bad. $110/160 well more then I expected for giggles I called the dealership $280. I also seen rebuilt ones. Can I just get a rebuild kit myself? I can find them for others but none that say they fit a d361 I also need a new fan pulley
  2. I have an 806 with a C301 gas and need some of your help. Before I tell you what's wrong let me give you the background. I purchased this tractor earlier in the year and have put 10-15 hrs on it. It runs a snow blower in the winter and does odds and ends with the loader in the summer. The guy I bought it from told me this, "The previous year it spun a rod bearing, he installed a new crank w/ bearings and away he went. Shortly before looking at the tractor he claimed it developed what sounded like a skirt slapping in the engine. Upon tear down he noticed it was the #1 cylinder and he replaced the piston along with the other 5 sets of rings." It ran great when I looked at it but after 5hrs at home that changed. I noticed a lot of metal in the oil and it began to develop a knock. It started at lower rpms and cold but has progressed to most rpms and all temperatures. The #1 cylinder appears to be the cause as it goes away when you pull the plug wire. At this point I have looked down two cylinders, pulled the pan to make sure everything was still tight and compression on #1 was 140 vs #2 at 145. My question is how far do I go with it not being worked in a field but running a snow blower? I don't want something exiting the side of the block. I know it could be bored out but I'm not sure it is worth it? I'm tearing down this weekend and plan to measure the bores and wrist pin as I suspect those as possible causes.
  3. Hi folks, just curious if anyone out there has info on this. I'm replacing my 806 countershaft with a left handed thread one. Got the new one (used) in the mail today and noticed several differences between the old and new. The part numbers cross referenced ok when I purchased. The new shaft is slightly longer, has a groove in the middle, the non threaded end is different and the threaded end doesn't have a slot for the washer locking tab. Is this going to cause issues? Should I find a machinist to mill a slot out on the threaded end for the locking tab?
  4. Jbyrd77

    Stuck Engine

    Was curious of yalls procedures to get an engine unstuck, would love to hear any tips!
  5. Hey guys. Sure it's been asked a million times, I glanced through the forums and couldn't find exactly what I'm looking for. My 3 point hitch is not staying in position. When raised all the way up it drifts down and bumps itself back up in less than a minute or so. If I raise it all the way up and shut the tractor off, it will be all the way down within 30 minutes or so. All hydraulic fluid has been drained and refilled. New filter. Removed the PTO last week and wiped out the entire cavity with clean rags. What are the possible problems? Shop manual is on order and will be here Monday. Any help is appreciated (as always!) Thank you, Monty.
  6. Hello I’m a total rookie when it comes to tractors and posting to forums! Last year I bought a Farmall ‘ 67 806 diesel fast hitch. I’ve slowly been fixing it with help from friends. This is a pic of the back end. It looks like a diy auxiliary hydraulic fill using a threaded elbow pipe. I’m assuming the copper tubing is also diy. Can anyone give me some more information or ideas about it? Thanks
  7. Broken low speed PTO shaft. Broken about 1 inch out from the gearbox. (This is the output shaft going to the implement) How difficult of a job to replace this shaft? I know how to get the PTO off. Just not familiar with tearing into the guts of the PTO and replacing this shaft. Any help appreciated. Thank you.
  8. Hey guys. Internatioal 806D My draft sensing arm keeps jumping off of the pickup lever, but only when pulling my disk. Making it not possible to lower my attachment. I’ve had to remove the plate above the PTO 4 times now and go back in and reset the lever back on the sensing arm so that my 3 point hitch will lower. Anyone know what I could be doing wrong? Or is there a better permanent solution to this? This is isn’t a matter of turning or going in reverse with the disk. This is happening just going forward straight also. Thank you.
  9. Had the Roosa Master injector pump rebuilt on my 806. (I know absolutely NOTHING about injector pumps, except that they send fuel to the injectors!!) The guy that rebuilt it is a jam up injector pump master. He’s been doing this his entire life and is in his late 80’s, so he knows these systems like the back of his hand. The pump works great. He told me when I picked it up from him that there may be more smoke from the exhaust then when I brought it in. This is DEFINITELY the case. As I said, the pump is working fine, plenty of power, very responsive, no leaks. But it is DEFINITELY very smoky. A LOT more exhaust smoke then before it was rebuilt. He he was explaining to me that there’s an adjustment nut on the bottom of the pump that can be adjusted to clear up some of the smoke. Anyone familiar with this? I could call him and ask him, but, he’s an 85 year old man with a very difficult voice to understand. I can’t make heads or tails of what he says.
  10. Hey guys. Ordered some new tie rods for the 806. Had some welded, homemade rigged things on there. Looks like a pretty simple job. Anything I should be aware of? Thanks, Monty.
  11. Hey guys. My first post here. Recently acquired a 65 IH 806. Trying to do a quasi-restoration. It has (shocker) a pretty good leak on the remote valve under the seat. My question is, is it possible to remove this completely off the tractor? I don’t need it for my purposes. All I’m doing is running a Bush Hog on the PTO, and pulling a disk (not hydraulic disk.) I don’t need the remote capabilities at all. I’d rather remove it then tolerate the leak, or spend any significant amount of money repairing something I’m not going to use. Apologies in advance if this topic has been covered. New to the site, I did a cursory search and was unable to find the topic. Thank you for any help. Monty. Tried to attach some photos of the work so far. Hopefully they’ll show.
  12. Please understand this question is theoretical in nature. I’m only asking as a means to help me understand the electrical system of my tractor. 1965 IH 806 Diesel. What problems would/could arise if disconnected my batteries, and removed every single electrical wire I could find off of my 806, and then ran just the wiring for the alternator, starter and battery? I know I would not have gauges or lights. But my gauges aren’t currently working anyway. (Fuel, water temp, amp, oil pressure all inoperative.) Wouldn’t the tractor still start, charge, and run correctly? I know this is an absurd question. Only asking out of curiosity. Thank you.
  13. Hello everyone - Greetings from Charlotte, NC. Unfortunately, my father passed away recently (he was 58) and I'm left with three Internationals: 1966 806D (pictured), 1967 806D, 1974 1466 These tractors were never show ponies - always work horses on a dairy. He bought the '66 806 before I was born (I'm 29). Because of this, they're all in need of a good amount of work - particularly the 806s, they both need a new clutch. I don't want to sell the tractors - I'd like to keep them and restore as I find time & money. Although I spent the first 20 years of my life milking cows, stacking hay, and cutting silage - I stepped away from that after college and now work in engineering. It's safe to say that these old tractors inspired my fascination with engineering and mechanical stuff. My first goal is to get them all running - some have been sitting for a few years, but were all running when parked. The '66 806 just required a new battery and a shot of ether to fire right up. I suspect the others will be the same. This will take years of work and tons of money, but hopefully it'll be worth it in the end. I'm sure I'll need the help and support of this community. Pictures of the other tractors to come shortly. Thanks, -Chad
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