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HI Guys I broke out this question from my current on-going post for a better chance of getting help. I am re-assembling the hydraulic tub and i am having a hard time getting various linkage reconnected to the control valve. ( glad i opted to do a dry run with no gasket to make sure i knew how to get it back together, i would have wrecked the new gasket by now ) I think i cut a corner when i pulled out the control valve. i did not undo the spring on the control rod. is there any trick to this or am i stuck to pull the bottom cover off the hydraulic tub? I really didn't want to need to replace that gasket too... this project has gotten out of hand enough as it is. 😕 Thanks in advance, Al
Hi All, hopefully this post is in the right forum - engines or general IH tech? I have a '71 444 tractor, and have been having a heck of a time with the float needle sticking and flooding. If I can get to it in time when it starts to sputter, I can rap on the float bowl with a wrench and it will sort itself out. But too often, it will die before I can do that and then it's a bear to get started again. I have installed an electronic ignition to replace the points since they seemed to get burned easily when trying to start it when it's flooded. Two years ago I rebuilt the carb, and it worked great for a few months after that. All I can think of is that some kind of grit is getting into the carb and causing the needle valve to stick open. For its age, it wouldn't be surprising if the tank has some rust. Haven't really been able to tell very well by looking inside, I probably need to drain it to get a better look. Anyway, I don't know how effective the sediment bowl is. I've thought about adding an automotive type fuel filter, but was advised that this might lead to other problems because the filter is too restrictive. However, I noticed that my shop manual shows a fuel pump on this tractor. Mine doesn't have one. When or where it would have been removed I have no idea. If I replaced the pump, would I be able to put a better filter on - downstream of the pump - without worrying about fuel starvation? Does it sound like that would help the situation? Or is the only remedy cleaning out the fuel tank and the whole fuel system to make sure there's no dirt or rust? And if a pump is worth trying, would I be okay just getting an aftermarket electric fuel pump that's rated for the right pressure output? And what is that? I guess I'd never thought about it back when I had cars with carburetors, but what keeps the fuel pump from overwhelming the float valve and just pushing fuel in and flooding it? (Motorcycles are easier - gravity-fed and no pump). Is it just matching the right pump pressure to the carb/float valve? Thanks for any help. It's warming up here in Minnesota, and it'll soon be time to that that tractor working again!
Has anyone installed an overflow tube in the carb float bowl? Specifically for the Marvel Schebler TSX series, I'd be very interested in any info or tips on this from someone who has done it. The background - I've had an ongoing problem with flooding on my IH 444. I know I need to go over the whole fuel system, tank to inlet screen, to make it clean, but I figured this would be a useful backup. With an overflow tube, if the needle or float does get stuck, the gas would run out on the ground instead of into the intake manifold, stalling out the engine. (And trying to restart a flooded engine has resulted in ignition problems as well). I've done this on a motorcycle before, a Kawasaki Concours. Known for an occasional bent connecting rod from a combustion chamber full of liquid gasoline after the gas petcock went bad and the float valve also stuck. So it was a fairly common mod in the group of Concours owners, as insurance against engine damage. The basic idea is drilling out a hole in the bottom of the float bowl, and pressing in a brass tube. The top of the tube has to be higher than the normal fuel level. But on the Concours, I had instructions from someone who had done it and documented it. Very handy. So if someone has experience with this on a carb similar to what I have on my 444, I'd sure appreciate hearing from you! Keith
Hi all, Got a little problem with my loader on my 2400. I am pretty sure the power steering and the boom are working correctly, but the bucket tilt seems weak and slow. since the power steering are working and the boom I would assume the pump is fine?? Could it be a valve in the joystick control? Where should I be looking? I will say she does have some leaks and the fluid level seems ok? Since there are leaks I have to assume if OIL is coming out, that AIR could have gotten in? Here is the pump located on these tractors? and the filter screen? Best, Jack