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About SAJ1000

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  • Birthday September 24

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    West WI

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  1. 1066 ready for another year

    Geeze ...havn't been spanked like that in 50 years....just kidding . Wasn't like I was taking naps under there...just kidding again! I agree that it looks precarious...but I judged it solid enough for the situation and what I was doing. Thanks for all the concern. No offense taken. I don't pride myself in being ballsy, ignorant or careless. Still got all my fingers, toes and limbs attached.
  2. 1066 ready for another year

    Nate...Only picture I took of the repairs.
  3. 1066 ready for another year

    Below is a list of fixes I started after planting on my 1066. I am a one man show and spent most my time waiting for parts it seemed. - New seals top and bottom of steering hand pump - also new steering wheel - new o-rings in TA plunger body and adjust - all new pins, bushings ,trunnions, tie rod ends, steering hydraulic hoses, axle pivot pin and bushing on front axle ( ball socket was good but installed grease fitting) - tapered hole in yoke and new tapered pin and steering cylinder end block - new bushings, thrust bearings, one spindle, one steering arm and new front wheel bearings and seals -one new set of ISO conversion couplers - New seat and hydraulic accumulator - new hydraulic funnel and filter cover....( very frustrating leaky condition that couldn,t be solved without silicone) -New trans brake arm - new fuel gauge - adjusted clutch free travel, adjusted dump valve and adjusted trans brake (in that order and per the advice of those wise ones on this forum) -all new filters and fluid. Shifting is great, steering is like factory new and she's ready for fall tillage. I really enjoy this tractor and the work it can accomplish. My grandpa never had anything bigger than a 656 and I wonder what he'd say if he had a chance to Run My 10 for a day...WOW! the neighbors always saying I should get a newer cab tractor.....I agree on the cab, but this tractor is so nice otherwise I cant see letting it go. I know its 40 + years old but if I stay ahead of the fixing I don't see any reason it wont outlast me. Anyway I want to thank all you experts, for answering all the questions with patience like you do, so guys like me can keep fixing and using these machines Sorry if I'm rambling,again thanks, Scott
  4. A horse farming question.

    I didnt know there was a difference between a mule or horse shoe. i put the same shoes on the mule as I do the horses. The mules have much smaller and a little different shape hooves than the horse hooves though. I don't work them in the field in harness or anything, mostly just ride and pack in the mountains or around home.
  5. 1066 fuel guage works backwards

    makes good sense as it should be reading empty without power thanks 658056...I think that makes sense should be reading empty before its even hooked up to power and my current one shows full when you turn off the key. Thanks for the help
  6. 1066 fuel guage works backwards

    well that leaves me with the question of which fuel gauge to Buy My parts book says IH part #533992r1........ sounds like if I buy a fuel gauge using that part number I may get the same result? am I wrong?? new gauge only is about $30 and gauge with sender about $70 any advice on the new gauge to buy???
  7. 1066 fuel guage works backwards

    gauge goes to the "Full" when you shut it off. Ok..I'll try a new guage......... thanks for the help.
  8. 1066 fuel guage works backwards

    Bought this tractor about 6-7 years ago and the fuel guage has always read backward....E is full and F is empty. The guage has been replace at some point and it works really well just reads backwards. I could live with it as I am the only driver ..but if the fix is simple I will add it to the list. any thoughts. thanks Scott
  9. New Member Introduction

    i believe under those springs you will find little steel balls that act as detents for the shifting. My 460 U used to get stuck in two gears at once quite frequently and I would take the tower off and move all three slides so the notches lined up centered in the tower hole...then I was in neutral and stuck the shift tower back in. Its been a few years since I fixed it for good but If I remember right there is a type of carriage that holds those shifting slide rails up towards the ball on the end of the actual shift lever. In my case one of the bolts had worked loose and the shifty rails were hanging down and away from the end of the shifting lever (inside the tower) I kept thing the end of the shifting lever was worn too much...but after some investigation I re-tightened up the carriage and it hasnt happened again in maybe 5-6 years. The other head ache was always with the power steering....My dad and I eventually fabricated cylinders attached to the drag links that have worked graet but was quite an engineering feat. we put alot of time into it when we first got it but, that little tractor runs like a champ, always starts matter how long it has sat or how cold out it is. We only use it with a brush hog on it now hope you get it all working good
  10. I am replacing the thrust bearing on the bottom of the spindle . Pulled out the old one which looked squashed and was broken and frozen. Anyway I didn't notice if the thrust bearing shield was up or down inside the tube? New thrust bearing says top on shield side but doesn't look like that is correct to me? none of my books tell me anything> Can some one confirm the direction the thrust bearing should be installed...shield up or down? thanks Scott
  11. 1066 mcv and clutch assist question

    Thanks for the clarification.
  12. 1066 mcv and clutch assist question

    pete23 ....are you saying the light should stay on til just before the tractor moves from main clutch engagement?? seems like mine goes out a long ways before the tractor wants to start moving. seems like i let up on the clutch pedal 3/4" and the light goes out and then another 3-4 inches before tractor want to move?? I also notice the tractor seems to want to move a tiny bit before main clutch engages. Do i need to tighten or loosen that dump valve linkage? sorry didnt mean to sidetrack JAA600
  13. Pull 706 Steering wheel

    I just pulled mine off 1066 to replace seals in hand pump. Takes 2 - 1/4 fine thread( 1/4 x 28tpi) into the center hub. I had mine soaking for two days with penetrating oil. I kept tightening the puller over a day and eventually snapped the grade 5 bolts...and in the process wrecked the plastic on the steering wheel center hub. finally just removed pump with steering wheel still attached and used a die grinder with a cut off disc to cut the through the steering wheel center hub and then drove a chisel into the cut to open it up and get it off.
  14. hello,


    was reading your post about the hydraulic seat accumulator and wondered if you had any luck.

    I have a 1066 and my accumulator has been non-charged since i bought the tractor 6 years ago.

    well now it is leaking where it screws onto the seat height cylinder. $400 just seems like too much to pay and was wondering if you found an alternative??


    My accumulator has the mfg sticker and part number on it.  It says it is Made by Greer Olaer and the part # is A66789 200.  I did a quick search and not being too computer savy I didnt get very far.

    I might cap my off unless a more reasonable price option is found

    1. Wisconsinred


      Deere can get you one for about $100.00 cheaper otherwise no I haven't found anything. And anything used is probably going to be just like what you have but you may get lucky and find one that can be charged again. Almost sounds like you might just need an o ring where it screws on? And if the cylinder it's self is leaking you can reseal it too

    2. SAJ1000


      I ended up buying the Deere one. Like you said, It cost 335  but was about 100 cheaper.


      The threads on my original accumulator were a little messed up , but I charged it up with compressed air

      and it seemed to be least overnite.  Anyway , I figured after I spent alot of time on it would probably leak down any way so I bought the deere one.  


      thanks for the response

  15. 1066 steering hand pump leaking

    Thanks CIHTECH..... took off steel retainer ring to get a better measurement. It wasn't too out of round ( .010 +/- ) so it was more of a case of just not centered on the end cap. anyways,(along with your help) that gave more confidence in being able to get a good seal. Figured I'd do top and bottom seals long as it sitting on the bench. FYI- steering wheel was really stuck. stretched the 1/4-28's til they broke with the puller . Drilled and tapped some 5/16 holes and still no go. ended up cutting the hub of the steering wheel with a die grinder. I guess its been on there 43 years!!! WOW# Thanks again for the help and have a good week