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About SAJ1000

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  • Birthday September 24

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  1. I was really hoping we would find a broken spring or something obvious with those suggested spools but, we didnt see anything at all amiss with either one. All I can say about the clutch cable it looked like it was streched a little as the end was off the plastic/rubber cable shield maybe a 1/4 Inch and it also seemed like the over all travel of the cable was longer than it needed to be....but in the end it appeared to be moving the spool full length in both directions if that makes any sense. anyhow it looks like we are at the end of what we can do at home and will have to find professional help. thanks
  2. No Luck yet with this jerky engagement issue- we took out the #22 spool and 32-35 modulator piston arrangement as suggested and checked them for abnormalities. Both seemed to move nicely enough, nor real scoring or broken springs. We also verified the clutch cable as working as it should. Dont have any clue on where to look next!!! any ideas would be welcome thanks
  3. testing Glearclashes question- yes this tractro has the F-N-R shuttle lever- so with the tractor in gear ( 2nd range 4th gear) when moving the f-n-r lever only ( not using clutch pedal ) the tractor will hesitate for 1 - 2 seconds and then engage and move. When moving the lever into reverse the tractor engages slowly and very smoothly and builds upto speed...... moving from Nuetral Into forward isnt quite as smooth---- more abrupt but similar. Engagement in either direction using the F-N-R lever is significantly smoother than is possible with the clutch pedal. Does this tell us anything?? Following CIHTECH's suggestions- There are two cables which are activated from the clutch pedal- one goes to the the #22 spool mentioned in his initial post - the other we couldnt follow?? Anyway, the cable and linkage seem to be moving fine. But, It does seem like there may be a small "catchy" spot in the stroke of the #22 spool, but it is hard to tell cause you can only hold a finger on the cable end/spool attchment point and try to follow it through its stroke while the other guy depresses and releases the pedal slow and consistently. We both thought there was a catchy spot about in the middle of the stroke. Of course this control block is under the cab and facing away from you from the back... I suspect the #22 spool has to come out...Correct??? Looks like there may be access through the cab floor?? thanks again for the help and advice!!
  4. Thanks for the advice and I will report back what we find. also- Gearclash---will check on your question...... I am assuming you mean with tractor in gear idling??
  5. year 1995- Maxxum 5220 - MFWD- 4800 hours- non- powershift My Son purchased this tractor recently and we have been going through it fixing a few leaks and so forth. The two remaining problems we dont know exactly where to start with. 1- as you attempt to let the clctch pedal up slowly to move forward or backwards the clutch engages ( instantly) without the ability to feather...it is impossible to let out the clutch pedal slowly enough to not cause an instant engagement or jerk. Its hard to describe but it also feels like after the initial jerky movement there is a second more complete jerk which is accompanied with full clutch engagement (The previous owner stated the tractor always has done this because the clutch operates hydraulically) in my opinion this condition is a little more than dangerous and also extremely annoying. Where do we start? 2-We used the tractor for maybe 6 hours and then parked overnite...next morning left brake pedal went right to the floor without resistance. I searched the forum and got a few ideas on what to look for. We checked to verify the steel tube (which apparently maintains fluid levels in the reservior) was in place and it was. 2ndly we went to bleed that side by pinching off the prescribed hose, opening the left bleeder valve and running the tractor. No fluid came out the bleeder until we repeatedly depressed the pedal. we could see Fluid built up slowly in our drain line but without any bubbles and without any positive results on the pedal either. we needed to get the tractor out of the shop so we drove it outside and as I was driving around the yard the left brake gradually began to work???? Of course we were happy about that but it doesnt explain why or give me any confidence it wont happen again at a worse time! ANY IDEAS?? So any advice with either of these two issue would be greatly appreciated! Thanks for the help!!
  6. It should come as no surprise that people who don't care if they are liked or not...frequently are not.
  7. I did this same repair on mine last year or so and it wasn't so bad once i had the pump out. ( I actually followed 1967806's pictures for reference ) Mine took the longer rubber sleeve seal also. fixed the leak and i didn't really notice any harder steering when done either. I just paid alot of attention to having the body centered while snugging and then torquing.
  8. hello,


    was reading your post about the hydraulic seat accumulator and wondered if you had any luck.

    I have a 1066 and my accumulator has been non-charged since i bought the tractor 6 years ago.

    well now it is leaking where it screws onto the seat height cylinder. $400 just seems like too much to pay and was wondering if you found an alternative??


    My accumulator has the mfg sticker and part number on it.  It says it is Made by Greer Olaer and the part # is A66789 200.  I did a quick search and not being too computer savy I didnt get very far.

    I might cap my off unless a more reasonable price option is found

    1. Wisconsinred


      Deere can get you one for about $100.00 cheaper otherwise no I haven't found anything. And anything used is probably going to be just like what you have but you may get lucky and find one that can be charged again. Almost sounds like you might just need an o ring where it screws on? And if the cylinder it's self is leaking you can reseal it too

    2. SAJ1000


      I ended up buying the Deere one. Like you said, It cost 335  but was about 100 cheaper.


      The threads on my original accumulator were a little messed up , but I charged it up with compressed air

      and it seemed to be holding...at least overnite.  Anyway , I figured after I spent alot of time on it

      ....it would probably leak down any way so I bought the deere one.  


      thanks for the response

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