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560Dennis

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Posts posted by 560Dennis

  1. Suggest an observation and recording of the weeds that thrive on the plot ,and where , will give you a good indication of soil conditions . Might want to do a scatter graph of where they are majority are located , that way you not wasting effort on treatments. Also a benchmark for the future . 
    The other is the water absorption , in the rental section of plot the water should remain on surface ,or run off , saying compaction. A core sample of compacted soil in a five gallon bucket of water should dissolve into mud at the bottom ,  rather than hold together absorbing some water remaining somewhat the same as the original core sample. 
    Some easy ways to know if your improvement is working is simple measurements.

    Good luck hope you get to your objectives . Don’t get frustrated it takes awhile . 

  2. Spent most of the day with wire brushes,screwdrivers,putty knife cleaning grease and Ohio yellow clay off the planters. Got the easy  stuff with the power washer . But the clay mixed with grease even the power washer just bounced off of it like Kevlar. 
    Would work till the sweat would burn my eyes, then go in the house and cool off . Checked the heat index on the weather station ,thunder! It  was 108 .

    lucked out thunder storm blow in ,rained hard wash all the rusty dust off frame . 
    Came out did little more

    ,came in for shower, home made ice cream and lemon mirage pie ,done for the day

    tomorrow maybe ,just maybe put some rusty metal primer on the easy spots. 
    ain’t projects like just what you need to feed tractor fever just hopefully the humidity will go below 65 so I can paint 

    • Like 1
  3. 2 hours ago, Absent Minded Farmer said:

    This book covers the C279 Blackland planter & the C280 runner-type cotton planters. The dates listed on the pages in this catalog are a bit random, so not everything is covered for the same year. I'm going to guess the C272 was for the C? It looks near identical to the C280 made for the Super C.

    I'll leave you with a link to the C272 in the '49 catalog in the WHS archive. If you would like me to attach pics of the C279 & C280, just let me know & I will post them.

    https://content.wisconsinhistory.org/digital/collection/ihc/id/26974/

    Mike

    Thank you 

  4. 1 hour ago, DT Fan said:

    Those fertilizer attachments.... I have an Allis two row planter with good fertilizer parts. I used it once, took about 45 seconds to plant my four rows of sweetcorn and about an hour of cleaning to prevent rust! Only did that once. have a guy that wants to buy that planter and I may just sell it to him.

    Good fertilizer units is a serious plus on your ac  , cost to repair or replacement , I look at tractor house ,a vendor has a set of planter newest than mine ,their asking 4 k I think it was in Illinois,anyway ! And it was without the fertilizer units ! 
    good luck 

    • Confused 1
  5. On 8/5/2022 at 1:19 PM, Absent Minded Farmer said:

    Those look to be the same fertilizer units that are used on my 220 trailing planter. I would guess the row units & hoppers should be the same, too?

    You mentioned that there was ground up kernels in one of the hoppers. Outside of having damage to the hopper bottom or the odd larger kernel not fitting the seed plate, the wrong thickness filler ring could also have been an issue.... or none at all in that hopper. Poorly graded seed is another thought. That's the issue I'm having, trying to find large cell plates to plant Hickory King with. The seeds are thrown in the bag, butt shells & all. A guy would have to use an air planter to put that in the ground.

    I got a few pics from my '52 General Line Catalog to add to your post.

    Good luck with your resto!

    Mike

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    Please do me a favor does that book have a C272 cotton,corn planter ? Please look !

  6. On 7/15/2022 at 9:45 AM, Injpumped said:

    The front seal in the pump can be replaced, but very likely the whole thing will leak if you use it much, so I would not take pump off to just do the drive seal. Your local Bosch injection pump shop should be able to sell you the seal if you go that route. I don't sell individual pump parts. Good luck on the restoration. I do not recomend someone attempting to re-seal the VA pump on their own, there's too many parts on them that are obsolete, and many, many owner "rebuilds" end up breaking parts you would never otherwise need replaced. Also, most shops, myself included, won't touch one of these that someone else has torn apart and attempted to fix. I make note of how everything is assembled to make assembly and calibration much easier, and les time consuming. 

    Good advice 

    I think the shaft will have a groove worn into the shaft from seal contacted  . Replaced seal will only last a short time and leak reappears again because seal can’t handle the wear from the original seal . Just an observation from repairs to hydraulic pumps on Farmall C. Plus all the wear and tear on pump shaft bearings . Probably out of tolerance also .
    i recommend you follow Ed advice . 
    good luck with your tractor ,I like them a lot ,we almost bought one but the guy wanted way more for it than we could afford , happy you got one. Interesting post more about what you find. 

  7. 10 hours ago, MacAR said:

    That's where my gaskets came from. No help at all. I noticed the gasket was directional, will have to make sure not to cover up the marks. Any suggestions on setting valves?

    Mac

    Yep check the push rods for straight on accurate flat surface if you got one , something flat . 
    Flush to clean out rocker tube ,check for excessive wear on rocker to shaft 


    Look for wear on the radius of rocker arm . I use a dremel sanding drum and carefully followed the radius till wear is removed. If you don’t you will never get the lash correct. Make a gage or borrow one to check radius ,hold rocker arm up to light to see light shine through giving you highs and low spots , go slow take your time ,not a race , grind just enough to just clean away the wear. 

    Did you number the push rods where they came from to put them back? If not start with number one top dead center. Adjusting clearance cold to .014. Go to 3 ,4 and two .

    recheck valve lash with them , hot engine . 

    what I did ,tried not to forget anything 

    suggest you torque nuts on hold down to 30 35 ft pounds cause your going take the rocker assembly off to retorque head bolts . Do that and retorque rocker assembly and reset valve lash to correct settings 

    My procedure is to recheck head bolts retorque in 30 days . 
     

    if your head gasket is steel on both sides coat both side with permatex head gasket sealer just enough to coat it completely not to much as creating excessive buildup . 
    don’t forget which side goes up or down it can be covered with sealer ,don’t get distracted putting the gasket on , or your going to do it all over again in a few years maybe . 
    I’ve done it on a C ,don’t and can’t believe what I was think ing at the time but I made the mistake . 
    I think Mahle says direction note is confusing , read it back to us ! I think it say, “put this side away from (???) “

    Call them back and ask them what they mean ? 

  8. 1 hour ago, Absent Minded Farmer said:

    Those look to be the same fertilizer units that are used on my 220 trailing planter. I would guess the row units & hoppers should be the same, too?

    You mentioned that there was ground up kernels in one of the hoppers. Outside of having damage to the hopper bottom or the odd larger kernel not fitting the seed plate, the wrong thickness filler ring could also have been an issue.... or none at all in that hopper. Poorly graded seed is another thought. That's the issue I'm having, trying to find large cell plates to plant Hickory King with. The seeds are thrown in the bag, butt shells & all. A guy would have to use an air planter to put that in the ground.

    I got a few pics from my '52 General Line Catalog to add to your post.

    Good luck with your resto!

    Mike

    IMG_20220805_113600.jpg

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    That’s a really informative book you got. I haven’t seen one . 
    Im sure that it’s something like what you telling me , as remember it was only one side ,left or right can’t remember . Fortunately there are some kernel of seed in the hopper after all these years to measure or compare with the seed plate numbers . 
    Got the fertilizer hoppers apart time for a break and regroup .

  9. On 8/4/2022 at 10:39 AM, 560Dennis said:

    Suggestion called the head gasket mfg ,tech help and give them the number of the head gasket and ask a lot of questions ,take notes as to the procedure . What sealer to use and where , mine on the C is steel and graphite so they only recommend sealer on the steel , so I use that recommendation. Not to much sealer they say . See what the say ,post it cause if it different helps everyone. 
    i know the procedure for a Farmall C but yours may differently 

    Good for you ,! you tried ! 
    I called Mahle once ! They were no help ! Like they were afraid to say anything. No help on to sealer to. Use , no help on re torque 
    very luck with Fel pro techs talked three of them all very help full 

    oh your head gasket is directional so find the very hard to see the note .don’t coat with to much before the install mark it which way it goes, so sealer doesn’t cover it up. 
     

    if need need help retorque procedure ask we can suggest how to do it , I got my way others may be a lot better ,we’ll see Or 

    ask for Doug at messicks ,che's a tech ,an old letter series tractor tech from way back ,hes my go to guy on the Farmalls 

    • Thanks 1
  10. I had to struggle to get little(heavy)  attachment out of the the barn with out getting me or my son hurt. But we did it. Exhausted and sucking in big wind ,my son made chuckle. He said as we were in the loading area ,” ( I THOUGHT I WAS IN GOOD SHAPE ,! ) I felt better after that statement. We loaded it to take to my house for restoration to operate again . I’m interested in it looking nice to use and to take to shows ,it is going get to work again 
    So I’ll need your help ,been 60 years since I last saw it run . One of the big issues was it was cracking seed kernels under the one seed hopper ( which one don’t remember) .  Why I never found out ,why! as a teenager probably didn’t care , but I care now now, want to be right . 
    The planter? , not a C220 ,that’s the check row Don’t know the difference between 221 and 222yet . If you do tell me , I just stated reading the Ihc manual. 
    Also have a binding of the drive chain identifying photo also . 

    one thing also is to figure out how put some kind dolly under the frame to keep this these sections from falling on us. Thunder must have tip on me moving it ten times , enough of that , not getting hurt to plant corn ,I’m not as strong as I use to be by a lot .
    Thats my start of this journey. 
     

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    • Like 4
  11. You said your using the bolts that came out . I would make sure that tha bolts don’t bottom out in the block instead of torque to head isn’t correct . I see h Engine had studs ( two sizes item 11 and 12 on description ) original. Measure the head of bolt to block  make sure it will pull head down correctly to seal torque gasket , don’t want that problem .

  12. 4 minutes ago, MacAR said:

    Thanks! I think I have an appropriate-size bottom tap in the drawer at home, will check this evening. Good idea about vacuuming out the holes, I hadn't thought of that. Since it seems to be going to rain all day today, I may do a bit of the prep work tonight. If I do, I'll post back with my progress. 

    As to actually torqueing/re-torqueing a head, I've honestly never done it. I have a very good friend who is an excellent mechanic (builds chainsaws, repairs small engines, has a couple pulling tractors, etc.) who usually gives me a hand with this sort of stuff if he can. He's been pretty busy lately, so I may have to wing this one. I do have an I&T shop manual and an IH shop manual that I can consult if needed. I have some copper coat for the head gasket, but the gasket is the metal/fiber type. Would you coat it? What about the manifold and water neck gaskets? I replaced the manifold on the 300 several years ago and can't remember if I coated them or not.  

    Mac

    Suggestion called the head gasket mfg ,tech help and give them the number of the head gasket and ask a lot of questions ,take notes as to the procedure . What sealer to use and where , mine on the C is steel and graphite so they only recommend sealer on the steel , so I use that recommendation. Not to much sealer they say . See what the say ,post it cause if it different helps everyone. 
    i know the procedure for a Farmall C but yours may differently 

  13. 48 minutes ago, MacAR said:

    Yea, that's about right Mike. But it's hard not to winge a bit... you know how it is. As to going to the dealer, I try to avoid them as much as I can. Last time I went into a dealer (Big Green), I got shafted big time. We have a nice little independent tractor/implement dealer here in town and they're very helpful when it comes to getting parts for all colors. They do a bit of machine work as well, but nothing large. Surface flywheels, turn a shaft, rebuild hydraulic cylinders, etc. 

     

    I'll do that, thanks. This particular engine has bolts rather than studs but I assume the same conditions apply. Going to go pick up another gasket scraper today since mine has disappeared, and grab a can of brake cleaner or two. I need to clean up the manifold surface a bit also, and make sure no other parts have "walked off" since I started this project. 

    Mac

    In that ( bolts ) I suggest that you use a four flute bottom tap to clean out thread in block , use vacuum to clear out cru sty ,then flush out the dirts with brake clean ,revaccuum it. With the shaved head threads are entering into new purchase locations for torque , 

    the tap act as no gage go gage to make sure your going to torque it up to true reading . and not bottom out ,cause the bolt aren’t going back into the original blind tapped holes are they ?
     

    Do the same with manifold nuts and bolts also don’t want any vacuum leaks after all this hard work and money . 
     

    do you have any questions about head gasket retorque ? Even though I done it a few times , I reason the experience changes from Engine to Engine what good the last time the situation changes .
     

     

  14. 8 hours ago, 560Dennis said:

    I’d say you did pretty well . Got all your engine block ,pre assembly prep work completed ? You have any questions now the time to ask .

    Suggest you run a four flute clean  out tap the correct thread thru all the head nuts, also run a clean out thread die down all the the studs . Clean with solvent like n on cholrinated brake clean .Oil with 30 weight . 
    that will give you the  best torque readings for accuracy . Last thing you want is a reading of seventy foot pounds when it’s only forty five , see what I saying crusty carbon will give you a false ready , you will bottom on rust and carbon build up.

  15. 1 hour ago, MacAR said:

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    I went and picked up the head today, and I've included a picture of the invoice. After talking to the guy and asking him to explain exactly what he did and why he did it, I'm not so unhappy as I was. I did mention that it was quite a surprise and would've appreciated the warning. His response was sort of bland, but he did tell me he was so far behind he wasn't taking anymore work until labor day. So I can understand his side a bit better now. I just hope he understands mine.

    Mac

    I’d say you did pretty well . Got all your engine block ,pre assembly prep work completed ? You have any questions now the time to ask .

  16. I would have everything that was done for sure and more , steel inserts for valve seats ,and a three angle grind on valves for better breathing . But that my standard procedure . 
    I forgot to ask this gas or diesel . . 
    gGoing to have some more blow by from increased compression,. What I’m forecasting as a result .

    • Like 1
  17. 3 minutes ago, Mike H said:

    been using tap magic lately

    asked the kid to get me a small can and ended up with 4 pint size bottles

    works better than kroyal on bolts and stuck shafts

    Mike

    I agree , I have used on some 70 year old cultivators with very good results . My opinion it exceeds all the other products and homemade stuff 

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