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Posts posted by 560Dennis

  1. Shopping Cart

    Governor Thrust Bearing Assembly

    IHS4190 Available


    Governor Shaft Bumper Spring

    IHS4202 Available


    Governor Control Rod Rear Equalizer Spring / Hydraulic Spool Actuating Rod Spring

    IHS4195 Available


    Internal Governor Spring used on Farmall C, Super C and 200 Or Brake Positioning Spring used on 404, 504 & 606

    IHS985 Available


    Governor Control Rod Front Equalizer Spring

    IHS4191 Available

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    check this list over it’s what I would recommend , all the springs cause they are 70 years old. ?‍♂️
    I know why the speed is not as high as specified, because I have a Farmall a governor spring. The Farmall a spring is longer. 
    I ordered  the right spring . Now I got to take it off and replace it. ?‍♂️I learned something the hard way. 
    Make sure you get the right spring for the governor.

  2. 1 minute ago, nepoweshiekfarmalls said:

    I will do that.  Ordered the Steiner kit this morning.   Will hit the hardware store tomorrow.   Let me know what kind of adjustments yours required to run well.  Will likely take some tweaking to make it run properly. 

    Does the kit include the thrust bearing ? I forgot ?


  3. 1 hour ago, nepoweshiekfarmalls said:

    Yes,  there are signs of wear there.

    The tractor gradually lost RPM's late last summer. If you finally managed to rev it up, it had no power under load (heavy grass or uphill).

    In that case I would assemble the governor gear assembly with a new thrust bearing and see how much interference there is . 
    mine looks like the guy at the factory ground the daylights out of mine , your he was thinking about the weekend 

  4. 58 minutes ago, nepoweshiekfarmalls said:

    Dennis, I am rebuilding the governor for my Super C right now.  Could not get any RPM's out of it .  When I disassembled the governor,  I found needle bearings in the housing. Where did they come from?  Did you encounter any?

    Plan to build up my worn spots as well. Plan to use the nylon, brass and wave washers on the control lever as well. 

    What size brass bushings did you use to fix the slop in the governor housing?

    Did you fix the hole in the arm to the carburetor? Or replace it?






    Something does not look right by your thumb ,is that a wear ? The shining spot like the thrus bearing doesn’t have enough clearance to rotation as the weights move out . Could you please look at it and get back to me .

  5. 38 minutes ago, nepoweshiekfarmalls said:

    Dennis, I am rebuilding the governor for my Super C right now.  Could not get any RPM's out of it .  When I disassembled the governor,  I found needle bearings in the housing. Where did they come from?  Did you encounter any?

    Plan to build up my worn spots as well. Plan to use the nylon, brass and wave washers on the control lever as well. 

    What size brass bushings did you use to fix the slop in the governor housing?

    Did you fix the hole in the arm to the carburetor? Or replace it?







    Yes ! there are two bh-68 Torrington (Koyo) one behind the soft plug that supports the 3/8 output shaft the other inside of hhosing supports inner shaft . There is a bronze plain bushing support the outside lever to yoke and rod to carburetor. 
    Does this answer the question ? 
    I highly recommend you get a rebuild kit from Steiner I believe it’s well worth the cost. It will save you a lot , at least look it over . I’m interested in helping you because i have I think two more to do . So ask away I’m learning with you. NOTE THIS IF YOU GET A STEINER KIT ️The one they sent me the outside bushing is undersized and fell into the housing. ,I WOULD CALL THEM AND SEE IF THEY HAVE GOT ANY THAT CORRECT IN YET . I HAD TO RED LOCTITE MINE  IN THE HOUSING.
    I think the bushing is 1/2 x5/8 x 1 , I don’t remember you can get this bearing a the hardware store. Now my housing the casting has been bore out to accept the bushing I just had to press in a new one. You may have to drill and ream yours to accept correct bushing. There’s a place to start , keep asking questions ,I think you will be happy with the tractors performance when you finish 


  6. 19 hours ago, mmi said:

    completely worn away in early photos..

    did you replace 43481D bearing

    causes more hunting than worn parts

    worth $25  as I see btos have for $60

    My thumb ,hit the wrong button for 

    I did replace the thrust bearing. 
     I replace the springs on control rod also. 
    When I first started it it rev up really high full throttle with without broken clip guides under gas tank . Also the throttle was working to control engine speed from full to half throttle. 
    So been trying to get a bench make where its not exactly right The Governor is controlling to slow motor .

    Im working up from low idle speed since it was the easiest place to start. Got 530 rpm  . If was was using Farmall A high and low idle rpm spec I be done. If I use the I T manual 475 rpm low idle the tractor stalls . If I use the 1875 rpm high idle spec in IT spec I can’t get there yet , not sure why ? I also noticed on the tag that it said don’t exceed 1815 rpm ,so I will consider close to that as  good .


  7. I’m trying to adjust the throttle movement to give what I think is the correct low idle to high idle.  475 to 1815 rpm  for Farmall C 
    When I first started it the high idle was way to high ,where actually don’t know .
    Didn’t have much of and idle so adjust the idle screw. 
    Made a clip to hold down on lost motion of the governor control rod back by the gas tank .

    Hooked up a timing light to the car 12 volt battery and the pick up to number one. Set to rpm 

    I got the rpm low idle set at 540 , lowest I could get it, lower it would stall. 

    The high idle the best I could get was 1500 rpm . Which is about where the IT manual says the 
     the high speed Idle is for a Farmall A . 
    ?‍♂️What to do ? I’m got look for something for lost motion  it’s harder to adjust ,when your not sure where the original design was due to all the worn parts . So the hunt continues to find a way to smooth out the throttle. 

  8. 13 hours ago, Tonyinca said:

    I must of screwed up , I never thought I could get that baler going in a year and that was before I ever heard of Covid -19 .  I never thought it would be held up by" a Covid 19 ." Its slowing everything down. Harder to order parts, harder to get certain services done because of limited crews, etc , etc

       You are right these things take time, sometimes it gets frustrating.  Bean cutter should of taken a month , turned into 6-7 months Trying to find that ticking , then having to tear into engine twice  . Truck just goes forever , Everything we touch has to be redone or re routed.

     Went to see it today , ran into problems with water pump need to re route water pipes because of other( PS) pumps and tanks taking the room.

       But it is getting all its fluids filled  today ! When done it will need to go to Alinement shop ,then drive the **** out of it to make sure it all works , then to upholstery to re do carpet.










    That’s the reddest truck ever , I think 

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  9. Working on organizing the parts ,took the time to read the waxed paper ? Instructions wrapping to these wizard plugs I found in the barn . So I thought I show it to you , interesting piece of history if you can read it .Always liked the Wizard (Western Auto out of Kansas City ,had a store in Conneaut when I was a kid. Use to love to go in to look on Friday’s when dad got paid. We would shop for groceries at A&P, he would take Us to stores like Western Auto  ,W T Grants ,J  J Newberry's five and dime stores (?), was highlight of the week . Sometimes was lucky I would get a toy ??Or much needed caps for my cap gun
    What stopped me first was the Gaps for those years and the Hudson ! Grandpa worked  for Hudson in Detroit. 



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  10. Starting to assembly radiator ,as always running some issues with tolerance stack up . Making sure ,doing a dry run assembly to see if anywhere there anything out of alignment. No hoses in the cooling outlets so it got be right before sealants and core bolts (quantity 46 1/4 -28 ) on radiator core alone. So cooling system has Six  gasket locations  to be aligned and sealed to prevent leaks from head gasket to front cover lower tank. 
    Trying be sure  ,this has got to be right, before I torque head and radiator outlets , need to make a .055 washer shim to take up air gap on lower tank . 








    • Like 1
  11. I have another issue with radiator assembly the over flow tube has a split in it just out of bas 1/4 pipe fitting. ,so I had to find a 1/2 od tube to replace the 29 inch seam tide the was in there. Went to the three hardware stores. I could not find what I was looking ,looked on the web. Nothing but a 3/8 tubing of copper is has 1/2 inch od. 
    Call Jonuglin In Painesville and the guy said I refrigeration tubing that 1/2 od . Sell it by the foot . I BE RIGHT DOWN
    it wonderful to have a have a real hardware store near by , I wasted a week on this off an on, got it . 




  12. Working on the mounting the lower cast iron tank of radiator . I bought a new radiator core for it . Took it to Crawford radiator repair in Erie  pa . they have been business since 1929 I think, so if any one knows radiator around here it would be them . They told me my radiator was not repairable , so they work on finding a core, but they felt they could find one they would have to contact a shop make it . So fortunate the Fordson house  has them ,a special radiator shop in Chicago makes them up Special for  them . I told Crawford that that’s what I’ll do since they have done it before having jigs and fixtures , I was going to give me the best possible opportunity for success. 
    Now the next issue is the attachment of the tank to the core ,48 1/4 28 bolts and studs have to clamp the gaskets top and bottom to make a hermetic seal. Not as easy as it seems . The straps are corroded ,they are not true to a straight edge and I was advise that the y will leak . 
    so to make them is a chore cause they are not a standard size , aaugh ? 


  13. 2 hours ago, Tonyinca said:

    560 Dennis,

      Thank you !  Your choice  Justin's Isosceles, is impeccable and I am thinking that we should have a Mid progress Baptism with Isosceles pre finish ! lol lol

          Its certainly been a challenge at times .  But one step at time ,  We think we have chamber, plunger , gear boxes all going good.  Now we get knotters cleaned up and work done to them as needed ,  Next, engine rebuilt,  the pick up reel is still intact have not figured how to tackle it , have three of them and two are pretty bad. 


    I hear you , cheers 

    If you want to celebrate Mid progress do so ! 
    My thoughts 

    I don’t think Americans celebrate the completing of the hard work that goes into any projects. We go on to ,THE WHATS NEXT , After all they deserve it . Despite all the set backs ,frustrating issues that happen there still something warranted ,it’s celebrate ? 

    • Like 2
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