560Dennis
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Posts posted by 560Dennis
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On 1/15/2019 at 12:15 PM, Steves46m said:
Hello all
I just wanted to upload some pictures of the rebuild I did on the Magneto for my M. I don't know how old the coil is and any input to that would be a big help but looking at the cracks on the insulation I think it must have gotten a little warm at one time and seeing that that wire wore through the insulation that was surprising. otherwise it was a pretty simple rebuild the metal bar inside the coil came out easily I cleaned the bar up it slipped into my new coil right on. I got my supplies from brillman in Virginia I've dealt with them before, and they as well as their parts are first class I reinstalled the Magneto back on the tractor and have an excellent Spark!
Just curious as to how old you guys think that original coil might be? the insulation on this new coil is much more like plastic and that old insulation is nothing like the new one.
The only thing I didn't reinstall was that thick paper-like material between the coil and the magnets because the wire coming out of the coil on my new coil is in a different place than the original coil the paper didn't line up and because of the snug fit it was hard getting everything to line up and the paper always moved out of the way so I left them out I'm not sure what they are supposed to do.
My coil is rotated to 1 or 2 o’clock for contact to cap ?
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High potential voltage to ground ,
sorry I can’t find my blue ribbon service manual
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6 hours ago, Master450 said:
thank you, but im hoping someone may have a set of the A-79450 brackets laying around as id really like the tractor to have original front brackets.
You can check tractor ? house put that number in to part search ? ????
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This link might be of help
https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cgi-bin/viewit.cgi?bd=farmall&th=924285
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In the messick illustration , item 31 part number 49493D , quantity of 2 , call for price. Insulator coil end
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This old guy thinks its old . ????pre MCMXLIX ⚡️?
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Nice job on it , lots of hard work ,but worth it
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1 hour ago, Gleaner k2 said:
Were pretty rusty over here in pa. to! Haha i hate it
If it weren’t for rust I would be a millionaire.
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I soak mine in gunk gallon cleaner ,comes submerge basket. cost about 30 ?.
Do it in a warm garage ,place to work better . Set it on something that vibrates, if you have it, for a cheap ultrasound clean, agitation
not knowing how rusty
i all ways put new bushing in throttle shaft for the maximum increase in vacuum. I say it a must do ,you will really see how good you can get the old carburetor will work by doing it.
The idle circuit on most carburetor have very small hole that require attention to there design and require to be cleaned. Get the model number and look at the circuit to make sure it clean a must do or you’ll never get to run well .
And make sure all gasket surface will seal.
Depending on carburetor model s that about all I can suggest without seeing it.
Have fun .
Make sure the float doesn’t have any holes in it. That a disaster.
Set the float so it will set just a little deeper in bowl cause new gasoline density is different ,as 1950 gasoline .i seen this on my Farmall c zenith and carter will not shut off fuel at needle valve .
good luck
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On 1/3/2019 at 6:42 AM, RustyNumbat said:
I've got a new(ish) radiator core to put into my Fordson e27N, only problem is now I look at the header tank it seems old man time and corrosion has made the existing bolt holes rather fraught with peril. Though of re-tapping them, but honestly they're a little too fragile for comfort. The "structural" holes for the sides of the radiator seem to be okay, it's just the front and rear ones for holding the core in place.
That being said, could anyone advise me on if it'd be a good idea to drill out a whole row of new holes for much smaller bolts on the front and rear in order to mount the radiator core. There's also strips of metal the full width that will help hold the core on, as well as a good helping of silicone or gasket glue or something. Just wondering if anyone has ever done similar before in this situation, swapping out a bunch of large spaced out bolts for twice as many small ones. I've only got about .4 of an inch of solid cast to drill and thread the new bolt holes into, so these hypothetical bolts would indeed be quite small.
Here's an image how it currently stands.
Looks like mine , I just hit it with Milwaukee wire brush. Clean out inside with hand wire brushes. Painted inside with glyptol.
Tim@ Fordson house a said to seal gaskets together with permatex .
Look close has the tapped 1/4-28 threads erode away on front o casting ? Are you able to sand blast eroded holes and braze build it back up shape file it back and retap ?
this is where a vertical milling machine is handy ????
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2 hours ago, 1967806 said:
Read on another forum years ago about a fella that built a tub you could fill with washing soda/water mix and connect electrodes to parts hung in it and remove rust with a battery charger hooked to the electordes becasue it made electrolysys. He also had a recipe for a lye mixture to use in the same tub to remove paint.
Ive had good luck using rustoleum rustly metal primer to paint some plows in the past. Just wire brush off the loose stuff, clean it up good with some degreaser and paint with the primer. I let it dry and then have coated with John Deere green. gonna try some 2150 someday. Have also covered the primer with rustoleums version of IH red for things that dont matter if its a 100% match. I used that combo on some dual rims once and on some steps for my saddle tanks on my 1466. So far holding up decent and paint match was good. Not sure how it would look on hood/fenders/etc though.
I ve used the the derusting battery charger. ???it works good.
My method is 55 gallon plastic barrel with lid cut it.
I put a sheeet metal host inside diameterof barrels , that way yo get 360 degree line of site cleaning I put a chained to part submerged in washing soda and water connect the charger to the host ,I think positive, and at negative to the part. And then plug in the the 110 volt supply. I haven’t done it much check safety and you tube for more help. The part cannot touch the host .
Got to do it outside because hydrogen is a by product. ??
if you spray it with wd40 after rinsing it will turn a nice black oxide .
I just don’t like it it cause it’s dangerous around if you got grand kids around and I can’t risk it . I don’t like leaving it going 24 or 48 hours without someone that know to unplug it. Our you forgot its. hydrogen ❗️
I just use white vinegar and water and let it soak and walk away ????
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I assume brillman is really good company been around a long time. I personally have not got anything there yet, will probably get some Fordson wires from them.
Welcome to forum .
I have got a blue ribbon mag book off eBay.
Mag s are fairly easy to with a little advice as what to look for and avoiding most of the cost to rebuild in a shop is labor .
One of the other things is new condenser from overseas have a high failure rate .
So ask rebuilders to tell you how they test there work.
The wells number for the h4 mag coil is ih 800
point s condenser for well s is ih 8?? Don’t recall correct number ,but ih 800 series
Good luck
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On 12/28/2018 at 6:14 PM, RustyNumbat said:
Well if the story is true and it's around the WA/NT border, then I'm only a smooth 1,600 miles from a possible location of Lasseters Reef!
Hard for me fathom, how big Australia, is ❗️I think Pennsylvania is huge ❗️
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Ancient astronaut ?? theorist say yes
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I had to try this and it works. Ive looking looking at getting out this b 1210 needle bearing from the input shaft . I did not have the puller to get it out. So I looked on you tube and there were a number of ways to do it . One showed using bread?. Well that’s worth a shot.
Need a bolt in this case a 3/4 . Wrap the threads with electric tape to seal it tight.
A 1/4-20 hex bolt inside the oil passage to block the bread.
They tell you to wet the bread ,that doesn’t work. Use it right out of the bag and pack it into the bearing.
I tried packing into the bearing with arbor press ,to slow just squeezes wet bread out around clearance.
Put shaft in a vice and hit it bolt with hammer. That did it , keep packing in bread into bearing bore as it comes out and keep smacking it till it comes out of bore.
Well ,some jobs take two months of thinking to do 5 minutes worth of work. ?♂️???????
i heard of using thick grease, only seen it done once. I think the bread is so much cleaner and easier to clean up . ??
I ate the rest of the bread ????
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As far as oil goes , not knowing any thing about the gear box , i would not use a gl4 or gl5 high sulfur oil if it has brass , the sulfpher attaches to it and flakes it away little by little.
Should have a recommendation in the tractor manual or it manuals .
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Have not noticed a license plate on a tractor ? in a long time❓? . I use to see them as a lad across the line in Pennsylvania,
Also , are you close to Lassiters gold ?
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This is first one I’ve seen commercial available from Steiner, pretty good one if you do a lot of wide front ends.
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Welcome the fun is in the search , sorry I can’t help on serial numbers , got same problem with a Fordson F
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I've been working on the front axle. I put in new wheel bearings and seals . Forgot to add this the bearings I got from Gerald Coulter from merissa, Il. He even saw my post in yesterday's tractors and had new old stock bearings . He gave them to me , i paid him for the shipping .
I think the tractor are some of the most help people around give you the shirt off ther back.
Like Biity helped me with the he fan off the super c , I have not forgot that Bitty ,thanks
Honestly what do you think of paint applied with a brush ?
I really feel a quality paint applied doesn't matter!
Also in 1920 the paint for a tractor honestly was not that brilliant realistically?
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Lookie !????? I found the bill of sale for the tractor from Cook &Cook IHC Owosso,Michigan due November 25 1928 , when I found this I said I will never junk this tractor ,I got to put back as close to original when I took it out of the barn . I have picture some place with my uncle driving it. Unfortunately I don't have one of my father ??
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5 hours ago, mmi said:
only 1/2 the radiator henry put on, but your not going to work it or use crick water either
Ya I think the technical has changed oval tube are more effective, but only a opinion I never asked Fordson house , igot it there, they have been making them for years ,that way from a custom radiator shop in Chicago . Anyway it is important if running the 234 280 Holley vaporizer ,got to get them hot. My fan only had two blade s they dad or or uncle or the previous owner cut the off , I got used four blade from Fordson house .
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5 hours ago, sugarmaker said:
Dennis,
Just found this! Great pictures of your Fordson Build! I had a chance to get close to one this summer. I decided to paint the one in front of our show grounds entry gat in Sagertown PA. It is in really rough shape. I do have a picture of my dad on a family Fordson in about 1924 (he was 4 then). Even the dirt looks old in that picture! Your doing a great job and yes as someone mention you will have a lot of money in it!
BTW any updates??
Regards,
Chris
Thanks Chris the project is slowed to a crawl . I got to take it easy. Going to have hip surgery in January from a scooter accident.
I will be limited till March
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I would like to make some adjustable Jack stands for the 560 and the farmall c .
I want to use them anywhere also .
Could you show and tell me about what you use? My son is a good welder and we have a lot of 2 X 3 tubing
Ih blue
in Projects, Builds, & Restorations
Posted
This is what I got from a NOS ih cultivators part . I took it to Sherman Williams , they scanned it .it within 95 % . It close enough for me ,
see the plow photo .
The other is the work sheet from Sherman Williams .
Ag specialties coating in Iowa has it in quarts or gallons
good luck ?