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Posts posted by 560Dennis
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8 hours ago, Tonyinca said:
7/23/20
I worked on knotter by myself today , I think it’s complete . I put it through the cycle using a pipe wrench and all seemed to operate as it should .
I adjusted wire holders and twisters and strippers according to book but I am sure they will need more fine tuning before putting power to itnext I will start on chamber press etc to prepare for painter, he is painting many small pieces now and I have many more to take in
however , we will paint main baler frame with knotters, plunger in and chamber in tact and needle cradle in along with needle guard. Needles will be painted separately.
everything else will be installed after paint
still have pickup reel shaft and bushing to machine, plunger stop arm to build up and a plunger guide cleaner to make along with a drive pulley brake, more may show up as we proceed . lol.
tony .
Do you disassemble and do finish coat painted ? I guess that’s what you we’re saying. Every time I do it I have to retouch bolts All the scratches it do assemble
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On 7/15/2020 at 11:11 AM, Brews4me said:
Ok, while I am waiting to attack this monster i thought i'd work on the front rubber.
Turns out the area around the valve stem is rusted since water got in tire and sat in rim, just happened the valve stem was at the bottom of rotation on one!
Any thoughts if this is a deal stopper or do i need new rim?
Super AV 3 x 19 seems harder to find at a reasonable $$
Thanks, Jim
Without seeing the extents, I’d cut off wheel out rust , put in rectangle piece ,weld in and step drill valve stem . Best I can say , saved one the way maybe two
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1 hour ago, TomH said:
I have it installed, just need to plumb in the hydraulics. It is a fairly heavy hitch. There are a few parts that need some attention like where the drawbar support bolts to. I had to modify the bolt holes as they were not offset enough to line up. The one thing that is obvious is that all the weight you lift will be supported by the axle housing brackets that the hitch is attached too.As you can see below in the first picture.
The bottom hole had to be elongated 1/2" for the drawbar support to bolt up.
Ready for hydraulic hook up.
How do you get up to the seat ?
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11 hours ago, Matt Kirsch said:
So you're looking for an aftermarket 3pt hitch for your drawbar-equipped 560, correct?
There's not much out there anymore. The good one, Saginaw, stopped production on aftermarket 3pt hitches several years ago now, due to all but nonexistent sales, as I understand it. If you had a dual-cylinder version, it had a pretty good lifting capacity.
I don't know if Worksaver is still making hitches but they never seemed as robust as the Saginaw.
Tony's Tractors is the only one I currently know of that makes an aftermarket 3pt. I don't know how they stack up against Saginaw.
Yep , we have draw bar hitch tractor , I assume Saginaw was made in Saginaw Michigan, , I’ll check and see , does the company .
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18 minutes ago, TomH said:
I just purchased the one from Steiner's shown above.Its for H's,M's and number series without fast hitch. It seems pretty stout with the components weighing about 300lbs. Hoping to have it installed on an H pretty soon so I'll have an idea of how well it works. Its dual cylinders and appear's similar to the one Saginaw made.
Please tell me all about it when you get it going
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Does anyone have one that hey recommend for us to look at for our 1959 .
what kind of weight can they lift? We have two planters that we would like to use . One has a two 60 gallon tanks .
ive not had the need for it, but the processEs on the farm are
,not been successful at attempt so acquire a 674. So might upgrade the 560 till a another tractor comes along. -
Yes get a manuals ,the pumps are all but obsolete parts , you will have to use the ingenuity to get the gear end play back into spec . All I can give you is moral support .Been awhile since I did one. I think there two pump designs ,also .
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On 6/25/2020 at 5:54 PM, Tj01 said:
I was thinking that he backed into something. You may be right though
Run it , , Take some photos for us, AC designed plows are as good as they come ,we have a set of trailer 12 s behind the Farmall C and the C likes them ,I feel it will make me a also ran in the plowing competitions , I’vee honestly had an old farmer son tell me that’s a hot set up . Make a feel good .
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Never liked them ,radiator right Under t he seat , Burn ya . give me a cultivson
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7 hours ago, Tippmann98 said:
It’s Wellert’s AC Parts in West Salem. Phone number should be found easily with Google. If you have trouble locating it, I can get it for you.
Thank you very much for correction wellerts ❗️
witmers is Agco in columbiana,Ohio my stake
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3 hours ago, Tj01 said:
I was thinking that he backed into something. You may be right though
Check out witmers ? ac in west Salem, Ohio I bet he has the mold boards if you want to get replacement , but it if you going run it hard use what you got they work right ?
or plowoxain’t the first time a welded moldboard lasted a lifetime
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18 hours ago, Tj01 said:
TN Hillbilly
Yes. I don’t know what happen I got it that way. Would like to find the old farmer who had the tractor before I got it to ask him what he did
Backed up with plows down, or was stuck and pull it out backward I’d my guess
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On 6/4/2020 at 10:00 AM, Brews4me said:
Ok, What the heck is the size of the spark plug???
Went down to work on this and my 13/16 spark socket is too small.
Guess in tractors, everything is bigger!
Use 7/8 box end wrench if you use a 7/8 socket it will not reach ,it will be restricted by clearancebewteen head and plug. Have to turn a long 7/8 down on a lathe. A Champion Spark plug D16 is a 18 Mm thread , The NGK A6 plugs have a nice hex ,it’s 13/16 More standard .
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On 6/4/2020 at 10:00 AM, Brews4me said:
Ok, What the heck is the size of the spark plug???
Went down to work on this and my 13/16 spark socket is too small.
Guess in tractors, everything is bigger!
Use 7/8 box end wrench if you use a 7/8 socket it will not reach ,it will be restricted by clearancebewteen head and plug. Have to turn a long 7/8 down on a lathe. A Champion Spark plug D15 is a 18 Mm thread , The NGK A6 plugs have a nice hex ,it’s 13/16 More standard .
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17 hours ago, Brews4me said:
OK, update.
Working on this thing over the weekend. Dumped down the cylinders a quart of ATV fluid, and half a bottle of marvel mystery oil down the valves.
I did find a starter handle but of course no budge after only 30 minutes of soaking. But I have hopes. Plugs didn't look too bad and a can of penetrating oil will surely help all those thread s all over this tractor.
The only real opening was the exhaust pipe and it was at a 90 degree turn and hopefully long enuf not to allow much moisture close???
Make sure you don’t get hydraulic lock ? on cylinder, that so much oil it won’t rotate free when comes free, just a lite soak
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Air washer , as this Fordson is Like everything on it , is In need of attention. My son fixed this up for me . One float had a hole in it and the floaters were broken off , so he silver soldered them back ! I ve got to seal with rtv a few leaks in the tube where he made a new square top plate and it will be goo to go like new. I like the water Air cleaner it like moisture helps the kerosene combustion. Gas to I guess.
I think a coat of clear would help it ? -
22 minutes ago, Tonyinca said:
My way of thinking build slightly" angled out" steps from left axle , bend a light walled pipe on left of steps to serve as grip and I think you can leave fender on as the steps do not need to be excessive wide. make them clamp on bolted and your on your way . please don't make them on right as the cutter bar is to easy to find that one time you forget to turn off PTO and are not thinking safety.
WE need you here in full force.
Tony
Nice ? idea ? yep right side is revelations final chapter With this a implementation . It’s fact ya forget you left in gear or the pto still engaged , to get off and un plug a A slug from cutter bar , thunder did that when I was fourteen. Have disengage both , then get off .
I got two spares of these for the axle got a starter one for each of the three C s they will hold my big butts
Thanks for the help With building ideas -
Try to get on an off of this hot set up. I lost five pounds cutting crown vetch . There’s only one real way up on the right
of course I always approach from the left ugh ? so there’s a big reason I’I’m asking . The pto shield locked is now in th pto guard . No step .go from mower tongue cto axle to seat. With the vetch plugging the sickle , it wears you out. Easy to be fatigue and slip .
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7 hours ago, mmi said:
that has been a painful puzzle since the FH was introduced IH answer was to add steps to the x0x
need bracing then platform extension to add the same steps,just remember to keep the first step higher than your deepest mud.
Maybe some angle iron rectangle With expanded metal just over the The swinging draw bar. That might be step one. Still thinking ? about the higher step that gets me
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19 minutes ago, Tonyinca said:
Reading your question above , Reminded me of how often I climb on these old girls namely SC, 300U, H, SMTA, 400, 560 and think what the **** happened to these tractors ?
Never thought twice about climbing off and on many times a day when we farmed with them ! Then I realize I was in my teens ,early twenties up to about 35 .
I want to think its the same syndrome as my Wranglers ; The darn washer -drier shrunk them , these darn tractors must of shrunk or changed somehow.
the 806, 1206,1456,1468 I fixed the problem with K&M steps , better known as old man or invalid steps, So they don't seem to have shrunk as much as the older girls. lol.
Tony
I’ll take a look at km, I need a ideas , Just because I’m oldEr doesn’t mean I have to stay off ,thanks
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This a good one for me. I’ve de-skin my shin to many times stepping up on the pto shield with muddy shoes. Then the toe sides out and the shin skin is removed .Now that I’m old ,I’m going to try to finally come up with an idea that won’t let Down .
If you guys have some ideas I can copy please post them here for me to copy .
My shins will thank you. Getting older a lot easier to lose the balance climbing over three point and cultivating lift arms ???♂️?
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48 minutes ago, rcb said:
I bought a set from a guy here in Indiana. I mounted mine differently. I might mount mine like yours. I'm really thinking of fabricating a drop step I could bolt into the same area.
I think I can envision what your talking about ,please post it if you do ,I might want to copy it. Thanks ?
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Today was my dad’s birthday. So how does this tie into this project?
My dad and my uncle Stanley bought the tractor in 1928.
During the Forties ,I think the tractor through a connecting rod.
During World War Two dad bought the Farm .Dad was working a Warner and Swasey during the war . He met my mother there .
Mom must have left there after her first husband died and went to work TRW .
Dad contacted her at TRW about a connecting rod for this tractor. I guess they were both single again , he must of asked out on a date as a favor helping him find the connecting rod. I don’t know . ?♂️So this project of this tractor repair goes back seventy five more years ago.
If it weren’t for this tractor I might not be writing this story in project today. Funny how things transpired.
With God, family and friends I might get it running this summer , I hope so.
I’m thinking this is one of the longest tractor repairs ever.
I also think this is one the hardest task I ever taken on. Every nut and bolt has been a struggle, I kid you not and it will continue. These Fordson are rubics cube ,of a project there isn’t one that the same ,every one has been modified in one form or another to do all kinds of task.
I f you ever think about taking on one of these you cannot do it alone and you will need a mentor( many) to help you.
I can’t stress the fact get help.
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Well! well don’t try this at home cause we are what you call un?professional. Myth busters , it takes two ,TWO people to do this , I would recommend that you don’t attempting it until you have two strong people to do this especially the top cast iron tank , drop that , and play misty for me .
I’m back on the Fordson from the F350 dump Briefly . My son and I assembled the new radiator core to the original cast iron tanks. This is a mini stress riser location alignment. Trying not Make a mistake There are 46 , 1/4-28 bolts ,nuts ,and lock washers to secure the tanks core and gaskets. Permatex 2 both gaskets .
The new core stick out from the four front corners ,which is a safety issue to me . These corner will cut me wide open if I forget that there so , got to trim them off .
Not an easy task for us , but ! Huge relief that it almost finished . Now can get to carburetor and electrical .
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My new to me IH 71 three wire baler arrived !
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