560Dennis
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Posts posted by 560Dennis
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I had to follow up with a failure of the hydraulic lines under tool box.
The installation of the 3 point hitch, a issue with a rusty hydraulic line under the tool box ( if you can call it a tool box).rats or mice built nest in there and corrosion resulting failure of line. I put bags of decon in the tool box ,but damage occurred any way.
here’s the results of the fix.I had to take tool box ,deluxe seat out to get to lines. Removal of hydraulic blocks ( lack of space to work on the lines under dash.
The lines did come easy enough with two of us to wiggle out .
I looked up parts ( pipe , tube 374053R93 ) and went on line to many places and they wanted under 1500 with shipping for them . With all our issues with the three point installation. I wasn’t happy with the the idea of adding on to the time and effort of that to an already labor filled project. But if you have to come up with a solution you got try and come up with something .
Dave gave my a place in Wisconsin that rebuilds them for 400 and send in old parts. If I could I would have sent it in to them . But I needed the tractor now .
so I thought using a hydraulic hose but no fittings looked right or available.
Went to hardware store they had half inch steel tubing but welded seam ,so I wasn’t comfortable that was safe. The o.d. Of pipe was 5/8 . I found the schedule 40 gas line had a 5/8 opening. The 5/8 hydraulic pipe just about fit inside.
Bought the 2 foot scheduled 40 pipe for 8 dollars and a 25 dollar 5/8 drill drill to ream pipe .cut out bad section used oxy/acetylene cutting torch to copy the bend and bent a twelve inch section to to slip over the pipe . And cleaned with wire bore brush , brazed it to seal it . Bought new 11/16 x7/8x3/32 o-rings used 9 oring . In between blocks to replace old flat ones .
took two of us to line up the four bolts and assembled blocks very carefully not to drop out greased o rings ( I used lubriplate 105 sticky grease to hold in block counter bores )put all back together works good.
I hope this helps you if your in fa fix , low budgeting repair solution.
Glad it happen early ,i guess the lord wanted it done right ,hate to see that transporter up in the air and that thing drop .
that’s the story
Photos are reversed in order , not comfortable with inserts to describe what’s happening in each photo , plus not clear. Ihope this helps you
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I’m so happy that you posted these journeys of Fordson restoration. It’s very hard to find , and I’ve learn a lot from your post. I can’t help you to much cause my tractor has a 234 Holley float bowl with a 280 mixer. Mis match but there isn’t a stock Fordson anywhere ,depression solve that .
Suggestion tip .starter, I've found that if I use 10 ml syringe ,suck up about 3ml ,injection into the 280 mixer port and it will start on 3/4 turn pull ,what more can an old guy ask for. I do that cold and hot .note can’t use syringe more than a few times cause gas swells plunger but it’s the best way to measure the amount.many thanks to you ,Duane Helman,Fordson house, Keith Romeg ,my son Matt , others .
I've worked on mine for ten years or more to get it to run ,so slow , I’m happy with my journey, don’t give up or quit I say to newer people ,This was not an easy project for me be patient.
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On 6/21/2021 at 12:35 AM, AngrySailor said:
It was on the to do list! And done! Not sure if you can see it in this pic but same idea as yours. (Still trying to figure out the thanks/like buttons and quote features here so hope I got that right...)
So I’ve been running and tuning her all day Sunday. Had a leaky float, soldered that up and finally sealed it. She runs OK, I’d say not as well as my 25 with a Kingston M-D, and nowhere near as well as a Zenith set up like my 27... the engine has excellent compression, bores were clean with no ridge. Valve job done and clearances set 0.020”, guides are questionable but the owner didn’t plan to go this far at the time, looking back he/we should have done them but in reality this tractor isn’t going to run much.
I find it’s very fussy on the mixture needle... more so than my M-D tractor. We tried a known good set of coils just to eliminate them, same, it runs the same on 12v battery or the flywheel mag also. To me it seems lean under load and rich at idle. If I had the dash mixture adjuster for it that would help. I find opening the needle a half turn when you want to drive and closing it half turn to sit and run helps a lot, just never had to do that on the other M-D... I’ll see what we can fabricate or get from Fordson house to solve that dash adjuster.
The tractor will be back in a couple months for the rad core exchange so I will have another chance to address any issues then. The owner is pretty handy and my father is retired and local so even if I’m away working at sea he will have some tech support for the summer.
One other thing I noticed is this thing has a FAST 3rd gear! It’s basically useless it’s so fast and hard to pull away from a stop. I’ve never been so fast on a Fordson...
parked her in the “yard art/parts/project” line up for the evening. Other than the 10-20 she’s the only runner in that pic. One of these days I have to empty the storage barn and get the other runners out to stretch their legs. On my phone, not sure why the pics are upside flip... I think she’s heading to her rightful home tomorrow.
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We installed this 3 point kit from Steiner warehouse ,but bought from Kuhns in western New York for 560 Diesel.
Going to list what we found for your edification and amusement. Hope this advice will make the project easier for you .
Instructions explained 5 steps to installing to existing 560 draw bar support.
Adding following are the steps we addressed to make this kit function on the Farmall 560 as best I can describe that are needed to complete the installation on my Farmall 560 .1. We had to redrill all the 3/4 holes to mount it to get it to mount to axle. Holes were undersize. Used step drill from both sides at the barn .
2. Found the jack shaft will crush the rear hydraulic fittings exit tool box when three point hydraulic cylinders extend. Called Steiner asked them about this , we agreed we could lower the frame . I removed the vertical supports and took to my sons shop to redrill new 3/4 inch holes to lower jack shaft to clear when extended. This lower the jack shaft 1 3/8 approximately. See vertical supports photos3. The lower u shaped draw bar mounting 3/4 mounting hole was undersized .The hole was re-drilled but the draw bar wasn’t level , so when we had it at Matt’s shop we slotted it to 1 1/4 inch. Extra wide for what’s needed but can’t tell that when tractor is 40 miles from shop.
4. The pto engagement lever would not clear the right side vertical support to disengage the the pto . So a clearance slot had to be cut into that right side vertical support. See photos of lever interference.
5. The diagonal support rods supports the u shape drawbar to vertical supports had to be redrilled , new hole was added and I had to use oxy/acetylene torch to bend diagonal to clear motion of hydraulic cylinders . Note lower the draw bar put the draw bar down to about 12 inches.
6. Added top plates to the vertical supports. I slipped an fallen trying to try and get on tractor with muddy shoes these .vertical are an accident waiting to happen for an old guy like me. This a must do to have a decent support for your foot7 . So a thousand plus for kit , and my time Matt machine shop labor machining another 2000 , we got $3000 in conversation.
that beat buying another tractor 7000 cost avoidance.
8 . Relocating hydraulic hose to manifold on center ports for easy mounting the tractor , have to buy or pipe new lines. I have to had a time stepping on pto cover with hoses there.
9. I had to repair the rusted rear steel lines sprung a leak from rust moving the tool box to mount jack shaft sprung a leak but that’s another project
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Suggestion , I watched the video, if this tractor is for an old greezer. He or she can’t move fast enough to get to the choke rod , your video shows that. You would have started that tractor immediately if not sooner with a front choke rod ,the one to the dash is useless In my opinion . Up to you and your customers, of course , just a suggestion.
Including photos of mine for reference and amusement.
good luck
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Congratulations ,very nice work ! glad you did it
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Sometimes out necessities I find the simple tools work the best in body work . Such as a split 2x4 and a C clamp is taking out some large bends in this Fordson fender ! ❗️??♂️, Just amazed as to the versatility and amount work it will do if placed in the right spot .
Thought this was an excellent example , no heat just pure leverage.
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12 hours ago, rustred said:
that will give her some sticky ness ! just dont put in on your pancakes.lol.
Pours like honey ?, not going to taste ?
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Brought heavy stream cylinder gear oil into the house to warm up in the Landry room .So heavy it’s like watching grease flow .?♂️ They used this heavy oil in stream engine cylinders, and gear boxes , worm gear drive which the Fordson is.
If I left it in the cold shed , it would barely flow out into the gear box.
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On 1/9/2019 at 2:16 AM, Chub 63 said:
That’s fantastic thanks
I am now even more convinced that international had methodology in the numbering of engines to the chassis numbers.In the five numbers close to ours all cases the last two engine numbers match serial plate last two numbers.The difference is in the thousands and hundreds .
Engine number Serial number. Difference
149005 152905 3900
150975 155375 4400 early post I said 5600
152384 15 ?? 84 Our Farmall 48 M
159660 164860 5200
171223 178423 7200
200408 209408 9000 49 M
So please if you have a 48 M with serial number around the 150000 to 160000 can you post engine and serial number if engine is the original.
Thank you regards Chub 63
Very interesting, more M people would share there data would help to confirm correlation, good observation , I forget how many data samples ,40 , 80
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Replaced hand crank roller with aluminum roller . Should be more comfortable over the old piece of pipe
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11 hours ago, 560Dennis said:
Does that fretting go all the way around the axle ?
Rusty , Looks like metal fatigue , to me , I recommend looking for a new axle
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On 11/12/2020 at 12:36 PM, rustred said:
i am going to try it out at the antique tractor pulls. i have the gas model also and its in pretty much the same shape . i think the diesel should do better though. i got to replace the pump throttle shaft seal i see its leaking.
Try them both ?♂️? (talking like I got nothing in it )why not will be fun , one thing for sure your going to find out what’s wrong with them ,in front of everybody ????♂️Can’t hide , buckle up !
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6 hours ago, Tonyinca said:
560Dennis ,
Allied equipment was our IH local dealer with five stores in area Fresno County.
IH had a parts depo in Oakland Ca.
they had a manufacturing branch in Stockton Ca. Mostly for heavy tillage equipment matched to their Crawlers.
they built industrial equipment there also .Remember that Stockton and Sacramento Ca. Were the breeding grounds for Holt and Best Crawlers , so I imagine IH wanted to have a presence there also .
The Three wire #71 was. Built in the Stockton plant by IH . It was billed as “designed and manufactured in Ca . For heaviest yields and Rough and tough field conditions.”
It debuted on April 8, 1962
my Dads was purchased in 1963
the fella that I purchased the two donor balers from remembers well when they were being built in Stockton Ca. He lived in Modesto Ca. Neighboring town. He said he used other brand balers but he saved these two from scrapper 30 years ago kept them on his ranch all this time because he knew they were rare.
thanks for compliment on Wisconsin decal . They made a red and green one many times they had both colors on engine .
I am having red and green made for me , so you’ll be seeing a green one also , I think if it looks good if not I'll go with another red.thanks ,
tony
Thanks for the history ,important as the physical stuff ( balers) as to (who what when-where and why p
i don’t think I remember green decals for Wisconsin , but that was 55 years ago on neighborhood balers so , good to know there’s a difference .
I like the safety labels also !I personally like the safety labels to read ,interesting ,the manufacturer did try. ?♂️?as a kid I don’t think I bothered with it ,dad would go around the machine and tell me about it. The safety labels fell of ,rusted ?♂️ Or to lazy to read them unfortunately
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2 hours ago, rustred said:
went to change out the right wheel seal today and found a nick in the axle where the seal rides. that explains the oil leak. still had the old leather seal in it. pretty sure this happened when doing the recall on these early 560's guess i get no warrany, lol. that triangle stamp means the recall had been done. have the axle fixed up tomorrow, new seal is coming.
Does that fretting go all the way around the axle ?
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Like the Wisconsin draft horse ? sticker.
I’m curiosity about the allied label did allied build the baler for international ? Can’t read it all ,got the allied then I got lost. -
1 minute ago, rustred said:
might take 1 1/2 turns out. guess you will find out. that is quite the job you got going there.
Thanks ?
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9 hours ago, rustred said:
Good set of hard rubber pulling tires for low budget puller, put them on a lathe turn them true . Those aren’t Goodyear’s
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7 hours ago, rustred said:
just wondering if you had the engine started yet? looking good.
Soon maybe this weekend , not in a hurry , got a mental pre start check list. I also check with a Fordson mentor , I, check and recheck . Since I’m hand cranking ,we rebuilt the hand crank to make sure the have best purchase for rotating ( don’t want to get hurt . Will disconnect from magneto ,and start on battery. That was recommended , how do that ? Also pushing outside (weather) for start .
I’m concern also about where to set needle valve of main jet , guessing one turn open to start
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Lost a good vendor , new berry sandblasting and paint ,went out of business, ugh ❗️Need to get the Fenders done, ❗️ shucks ❗️?♂️?now what ❓
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❓was looking I see some rope from the radiator port was watching a video , don’t remember where,
Was thinking mount something off the lower tank screws . Needs to flip up or down out of the way cranking ✅??♂️
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20 hours ago, cbfarmall said:
A quick google search seems to show that Fordsons just let the crank dangle out there. IHC 10-20s use a hanger bolted to a radiator tank bolt.
Should do like the Lana bulldog and use the steering wheel ??✅??♂️
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11 hours ago, rustred said:
removed one rear tire this afternoon and cleaned up the rim and sprayed it with galvanized spray. i really worked good and matches the original color on rims.
How was the valve stem port ? I had to weld in a replacement section on mine. Not that bad of a job ,I can post the pictures if you need ideas ?
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Had to get the cutting torch out to heat up hand crank . I was practicing , just a few rotations to move pistons find number one. Notice the crank was very close to bottom tank. 1/2 inch , so with heat and me pulling on it I got it out to an inch . ??♂️ I need a (design ) crank carrier, to get it up so it won’t catch and bend or break something.
noted , the tractor turns a lot easier in cold garage, maybe aluminum pistons ,and no oil in crankcase, ( waiting to load warm oil ( room temperature) oil the day of starting ) .?♂️ Takes 2 1/4 gallons of 30 weight , a lot of cold oil , so waiting to put that much in .
Fordson F
in Projects, Builds, & Restorations
Posted
I would have to see your Holley stuff cause it only thing I’m familiar with , I had to make the Holley 234 manifold 234 float bowl and 280 mixer work , thats all I have and it worked ,( it had to ,can t find so it’s going to stay that way , I’m only running gasoline and I’m think the tube of the vapors to mixer will get hot going up to mixer but the valve is always closed. Any how send me a private message we can go over what you have Holley to get you going if need arises.
also the 234 float bowls are extremely rare,
the 234 manifolds are very easy to crack very thin I had to braze mine