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560Dennis

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Posts posted by 560Dennis

  1. You said your using the bolts that came out . I would make sure that tha bolts don’t bottom out in the block instead of torque to head isn’t correct . I see h Engine had studs ( two sizes item 11 and 12 on description ) original. Measure the head of bolt to block  make sure it will pull head down correctly to seal torque gasket , don’t want that problem .

  2. 4 minutes ago, MacAR said:

    Thanks! I think I have an appropriate-size bottom tap in the drawer at home, will check this evening. Good idea about vacuuming out the holes, I hadn't thought of that. Since it seems to be going to rain all day today, I may do a bit of the prep work tonight. If I do, I'll post back with my progress. 

    As to actually torqueing/re-torqueing a head, I've honestly never done it. I have a very good friend who is an excellent mechanic (builds chainsaws, repairs small engines, has a couple pulling tractors, etc.) who usually gives me a hand with this sort of stuff if he can. He's been pretty busy lately, so I may have to wing this one. I do have an I&T shop manual and an IH shop manual that I can consult if needed. I have some copper coat for the head gasket, but the gasket is the metal/fiber type. Would you coat it? What about the manifold and water neck gaskets? I replaced the manifold on the 300 several years ago and can't remember if I coated them or not.  

    Mac

    Suggestion called the head gasket mfg ,tech help and give them the number of the head gasket and ask a lot of questions ,take notes as to the procedure . What sealer to use and where , mine on the C is steel and graphite so they only recommend sealer on the steel , so I use that recommendation. Not to much sealer they say . See what the say ,post it cause if it different helps everyone. 
    i know the procedure for a Farmall C but yours may differently 

  3. 48 minutes ago, MacAR said:

    Yea, that's about right Mike. But it's hard not to winge a bit... you know how it is. As to going to the dealer, I try to avoid them as much as I can. Last time I went into a dealer (Big Green), I got shafted big time. We have a nice little independent tractor/implement dealer here in town and they're very helpful when it comes to getting parts for all colors. They do a bit of machine work as well, but nothing large. Surface flywheels, turn a shaft, rebuild hydraulic cylinders, etc. 

     

    I'll do that, thanks. This particular engine has bolts rather than studs but I assume the same conditions apply. Going to go pick up another gasket scraper today since mine has disappeared, and grab a can of brake cleaner or two. I need to clean up the manifold surface a bit also, and make sure no other parts have "walked off" since I started this project. 

    Mac

    In that ( bolts ) I suggest that you use a four flute bottom tap to clean out thread in block , use vacuum to clear out cru sty ,then flush out the dirts with brake clean ,revaccuum it. With the shaved head threads are entering into new purchase locations for torque , 

    the tap act as no gage go gage to make sure your going to torque it up to true reading . and not bottom out ,cause the bolt aren’t going back into the original blind tapped holes are they ?
     

    Do the same with manifold nuts and bolts also don’t want any vacuum leaks after all this hard work and money . 
     

    do you have any questions about head gasket retorque ? Even though I done it a few times , I reason the experience changes from Engine to Engine what good the last time the situation changes .
     

     

  4. 8 hours ago, 560Dennis said:

    I’d say you did pretty well . Got all your engine block ,pre assembly prep work completed ? You have any questions now the time to ask .

    Suggest you run a four flute clean  out tap the correct thread thru all the head nuts, also run a clean out thread die down all the the studs . Clean with solvent like n on cholrinated brake clean .Oil with 30 weight . 
    that will give you the  best torque readings for accuracy . Last thing you want is a reading of seventy foot pounds when it’s only forty five , see what I saying crusty carbon will give you a false ready , you will bottom on rust and carbon build up.

  5. 1 hour ago, MacAR said:

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    I went and picked up the head today, and I've included a picture of the invoice. After talking to the guy and asking him to explain exactly what he did and why he did it, I'm not so unhappy as I was. I did mention that it was quite a surprise and would've appreciated the warning. His response was sort of bland, but he did tell me he was so far behind he wasn't taking anymore work until labor day. So I can understand his side a bit better now. I just hope he understands mine.

    Mac

    I’d say you did pretty well . Got all your engine block ,pre assembly prep work completed ? You have any questions now the time to ask .

  6. On 7/29/2022 at 5:14 PM, hillman said:

    yeah, I have seen them with a sprayer mounted on wooden trailer with steel wheels pulled by a horse of coarse. Honda motor powering sprayer pump

    Dirt Poor- they don't believe in insurance of any kind . 

     

    9 hours ago, hillman said:

    the only new horse drawn equipment I am aware of is Pioneer https://pioneerfarmequipment.com/ 

     I have sold a little equipment to  them and for the most part they prefer IH - they feel IH is built better . usually won't buy anything else. with the exception of New Idea manure spreaders

    I hate disagreeing with you Dennis but governments and tree huggers are under the same impression and from my experience crops esp  corn loves N and it ain't free .. You cannot get enough through natural ways to get the amazing yields farmers get today

    from this source https://www.cropnutrition.com/nutrient-management/nitrogen  20 ibs of N won't get you big yields

    another https://www.researchgate.net/publication/309704090_Role_of_Nitrogen_for_Plant_Growth_and_Development_A_review#:~:text=An estimate 78-79% N is available in the,management practices should be technical and most advantageous.

     there's a lot smarter guys than me on this topic and some are organic guys who agree with you but I don't🏳️one thing I have learned online is if something works in one area it doesn't necessarily work elsewhere  

     

    I resent the statement about government and tree huggers , you obviously want try and intimidate me , so I respectful ask for and apologize 

  7. I would have everything that was done for sure and more , steel inserts for valve seats ,and a three angle grind on valves for better breathing . But that my standard procedure . 
    I forgot to ask this gas or diesel . . 
    gGoing to have some more blow by from increased compression,. What I’m forecasting as a result .

    • Like 1
  8. Answer is no , get nitrogen free from the air and don’t need herbicide or insecticide with crop rotation on 4 to 6+year rotation. 
    they are going on land longer , two to three crops in a season sometimes. Their soil can absorb more water . If you walk out into there plowed ground even looks different. Sponge .

  9. 3 minutes ago, Mike H said:

    been using tap magic lately

    asked the kid to get me a small can and ended up with 4 pint size bottles

    works better than kroyal on bolts and stuck shafts

    Mike

    I agree , I have used on some 70 year old cultivators with very good results . My opinion it exceeds all the other products and homemade stuff 

  10. 4 minutes ago, 560Dennis said:

    I have that with the new idea trailer. When I get into what i call swamp grass very heavy , have to drop from second to first on a Farmall c .

    id say number one cause is cutter bar to section clearance (wear) . Also pitch of cutter to section .  Webb sayes the pitch is slightly up , ( this I never understand) but what he recommended with under serrated section on new idea. 

    no getting around it you got to address the issues what ever the cause . 
     

    best thing is call mfg. see if they got any body will talk you through this issue . Later others said 

    Is the cutter bar centered to the rock guard ledger plates ?This very important ! 

  11. I have that with the new idea trailer. When I get into what i call swamp grass very heavy , have to drop from second to first on a Farmall c .

    id say number one cause is cutter bar to section clearance (wear) . Also pitch of cutter to section .  Webb sayes the pitch is slightly up , ( this I never understand) but what he recommended with under serrated section on new idea. 

    no getting around it you got to address the issues what ever the cause . 
     

    best thing is call mfg. see if they got any body will talk you through this issue . Later others said 

  12. 3 minutes ago, 560Dennis said:

    Make mine out of paper first on the dining room floor , used  the NATPA rules that way should be compliant every where I go. They are for  a Farmall C ,but you can do it to your tractor with what ever steel you have just if you make a model you don’t have a lot time and money in changes cause something does not fit .

    just used what I had around to make them ,they pass technical  inspection at NATPA with any questions .

    D74D37EE-41AB-43FC-A425-55F051AC26C4.jpeg

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    Might as well add the hitch ,up thight and as close to axle center as NATPA will let me . Mounted cultivators up and over hitch and hitch for shows I’m going to . Made pull ring for over hitch to get maximum height .And easy to lower elsewhere if they have different height .

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    • Like 1
  13. Make mine out of paper first on the dining room floor , used  the NATPA rules that way should be compliant every where I go. They are for  a Farmall C ,but you can do it to your tractor with what ever steel you have just if you make a model you don’t have a lot time and money in changes cause something does not fit .

    just used what I had around to make them ,they pass technical  inspection at NATPA with any questions .

    D74D37EE-41AB-43FC-A425-55F051AC26C4.jpeg

    470F1A1F-C8D8-4F62-B9AF-DAA405C97B9B.jpeg

    0B73AC22-5DDB-4B79-8719-594536838195.jpeg

    4083ABE9-9978-4D9D-AC5C-601F093EF105.jpeg

    B13D4127-1299-443F-A356-F302577F884F.jpeg

    EFD72136-BA5A-46DC-BA28-987954A9D9D8.jpeg

    A719100F-475A-434A-984C-73435074D11A.jpeg

    0654A353-0D8A-4A76-A36F-618A1D55F757.jpeg

    • Like 1
  14. 11 hours ago, Reichow7120 said:

     Love  these historic markers on oilfields. The oilfields have always fascinated me since I grew up in the Shadow of the Scipio Albion Oilfield which at one time was the largest single Oilfield east of the Mississippi River 

    Red dot is where we are located. The field passed us to the west a tic over a mile 

    Michigan-wells.jpg

    michigan-basin-4.png

    Use to know where you where hunting could not get lost , just listen to the the for the putting of the oil well engine ,my uncle said .

  15. Sometimes, you just got to slow down ,stop and read what this have to say ,am I right might learn something . Route 198 in beaver township almost to Ohio line. 
    Ppast this sign 4 times going and coming from Pioneer Steam and Gas engine society show . Saw it , thought why thunder ,nobody behind me ,decide to slow down and stop to read it. 
    So now you also know what it says , here’s the photo of it for your edification and amusement. 

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    • Like 5
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