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Everything posted by 1958560

  1. Are they easy to open up? Caseih tech told me that parts tend to fly out, he said either lubricate and they work, or replace
  2. Just wondering if anyone on here has a planter equipped with precision planting parts, such as deltaforce hyd down pressure, clean sweep and vset2 electric seed meters. I have a 12 cih 1250 planter that I'm pondering putting pp stuff on. Mostly because of variable ground that I notill and the irregular plots that have a lot of overlap. The 1250 has hyd drive and air clutches, but 2 failed this year, they would shut off but not reengage until I got out and tapped on them. Just looking for good/ bad on this stuff, thanks Robert
  3. My farm aid reel mixer wagon works good too, the real supports the bale so it doesn't fall in
  4. I've had a parker 839 behind my 7120 for 6 years now. Holds 800 plus depending on how you fill it and test weight. If I have an extra driver we dump on the go except for final fill, then we stop. Never had a chain on 3 pt. Balanced pretty well, I do have one riverbottom field that has to come out a steep hill, about 5-600 bushel is all it wants coming up that. Otherwise you just stay out of wet spots in the field. Just because it holds 800 doesn't mean it always has to be full. I started out with a 1210 JD cart with extensions that holds about 450, but the tires on that cut more tracks than th
  5. Dad bought a super m 30 years ago from that place, still have it. I've been by that place many times as well. We'll be shipping a couple loads of fats to sfrl this evening for the sale on Wednesday
  6. First one is an 03 9400, 435hp Cummins 10 spd, 1,034,000 miles pulling my 08 Maurer steel 40' grain trailer Second one is 78 s1600 ex fire truck, 7.3L IDI Ford and a 4 and 2 spd, with an old Paul gravel box, this is our wet distillers and gravel hauler, about 8 ton of distillers Last one is my sons 81 Freightliner cabover, 400hp 855 Cummins 13 spd, 6xx,000 miles pulling my 48' hay trailer
  7. That looks great! I'll round up some fittings and go to work, thanks!
  8. Anyone know of a cheaper source for the hydraulic system supply hose/pipe that feeds the remotes? Looks like cih wants 475 for one number, other number nla. Got a spare used one for 460, but I think the 560 is different, thanks, Robert
  9. Took the donor apart, it was just a rering job, and looks like original cam, lifters are slightly cupped. Fuel pump eccentric wasn't installed properly and bolt was loose. Standard pistons with a little wear on front 2 cylinders. We'll have it checked at machine shop. Where is a good place to get parts? Dad and brother pulled truck engine, I'll look for number on block today. Pan had 3 gallons of antifreeze in it, guessing spun bearing, broken rod or dropped valve, check further today, thanks
  10. Dad's 74 1700 truck engine blew up last fall. Pulling it now, but made a lot of noise and locked up, guessing dropped a valve or spun a bearing. How can I find out what engine it is? He has a 345 that he got a few years ago supposed to be freshly overhauled, pickup it was for burned in a garage fire. The original engine has a 4 bbl Holley and exhaust manifolds have 3 bolt flange for the pipe. Donor is 2 bbl and 2 bolt exhaust pipe flange manifolds. We will tear the 345 down and reseal and possibly rering since it's been setting for over 10 years. Will manifolds swap from one to the other? If t
  11. We dont use them as much as in my childhood either. Dad hated a haybine, so we mowed everything. Last few years I use a haybine where possible and mowers on hills and rocky ground. Brother mows about 200 acres/yr and I use haybine on 50 acres alfalfa 3-4 times/yr and on most of a quarter of grass/alf mix. I only use mowers now on about 150 acres of grass. All the riverbottom crap we used to hay is now farmed. Still have plenty of hay and ground is insurable and more productive
  12. Bearing number is MR 1205EL, this is an NTN Bearing. May have to clean up the inside of the pitman arm if the center race of bearing wont seat on bearing. Hopefully pictures will give a better idea how to get the pin out. Basically use the bar as a lever, pivoting on the old bearing race that I use for a spacer. An old guy at Aberdeen, SD rebuilt these mower boxes and showed me how to get them apart. The new bearing works better for us, I haven't replaced one out of our 2 sets of double mowers in 4 yrs. Ours sit outside over the winter, and I've found that storing them up in the air with the h
  13. The pivot pin is tapered and can be tough to remove. Center of pin is tapped for 1/2" coarse threads where usually an Allen head set screw is. Remove the set screw, sometimes it is necessary to weld a nut onto the set screw if the Allen head strips out. Then I use a 1/2" bolt to bolt on a piece of flat steel, actually a broken piece of a feeder house bar from a 1440 combine. Need a spacer that the pin will fit thru. Put it between your bar and lower part of the gearbox. Tighten bolt securely then use a heavy hammer to hit end of steel bar. Usually a few whacks and it's out. There is a self ali
  14. We call that feed bunk banding here. Get it from a local lumberyard
  15. I figured on rtv or the right stuff for the top cover gasket, but for the bevel drive gear bearing retainer and stub shaft cover I would like to use gaskets. We all know how rtv can make parts hard to disassemble. Olson gaskets is sending me some material so I can make my own. Thanks, guys!
  16. Is there a source for the main cover gasket on the rear axle? Also looking for the bevel drive gear bearing retainer gaskets and steer clutch release bearing cover gaskets. Found the seals. Thanks, Robert
  17. Cleaned it better, the number on the ring gear is 58357DA
  18. Thanks guys, we'll get it apart and check numbers, hopefully in the next couple days. Sun is shining and I have hay to bale after 3.5" of rain Friday
  19. After closer inspection, I see there is one tooth damaged on the ring gear. Anyone have a spare? It looks like it should be addressed now while we have steer clutches out
  20. So do I, unfortunately i have a place for the two i got yesterday if they are sound
  21. Got a 55 td9 at auction recently that has been setting inside for nearly 25 yrs. Got it running but steering clutches, both sides are stuck. Does anyone have the manual and could post the pages for disassembly and reassembly? Thanks, Robert
  22. I'm not sure it's a mate, either. The manifold has an ih number stamped in it. I have 2 other manifolds like it, but they have a bigger turbo. I thought I had read that the m&w turbo set up used original hole in the hood? Mine have a 4"+ hole cut further toward radiator. I'd be interested in any info you guys k ol about the turbo set ups. Also, my son and I did get the td9 running this afternoon, but steering clutches are stuck, so we are working on that now. Anyone have a few pages out if the manual to guide us thru that?
  23. Got the pallets of parts mainly for oil coolers for out 4-560 fleet, but should be a few good parts in there for 50 bucks
  24. Went to an auction, gentleman was the ih dealer till 85, then just hobbied on old stuff until his death. Sounded like kids were squabbling a bit. Got a couple goodies, an m&w turbo/manifold for a 560, a couple pallets of misc parts and this td9 with a drott loader and 4 in 1 bucket. Supposed to have new sleeves/pistons, overhauled in the late 90s and ran at that time. Sat in his unheated shed until 2 months ago and is now seized up.
  25. Thanks for the info! Dad has a haybuster 107 that needs openers as well. We've never used it. He got it to remove some row units and convert to 3 pt for planting cover crop between corn rows but never got it accomplished. Might be better off rebuilding the 107 instead of getting the 6200s
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