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Everything posted by 1958560

  1. I have the test kit from Herrs, drive pressure is not up to spec for forward or reverse. In high range, it will get up to road speed, but applying the brakes will stop motion with little to no load applied to engine. Forward is better than reverse, but not strong by any means. It would barely back up the very slight incline into my shop. I got this tractor on an auction a couple years ago and haven't used it due to weak hydro. Previous owner did some work to it but couldnt fix it, so he parked it. Anybody's guess if what he tried to fix was good or bad, so it's time to get it done right. Charg
  2. Got a 656 hydro that is very weak, especially in reverse, and have been talking with Herrs in KS about it. I'm thinking about taking it there to get fixed, but a buddy says Stoen's in Glenwood MN did good on a couple of AC garden tractor hydros. Anyone have experience with either company? I like that herrs can run it on test stand, but will probably be a little more $$ than Stoens
  3. Just got this 1100 last fall, 5088 handles it ok, but plenty of wet hay around. It plugs between the right screen and sidewall. Wondered about removing the sidewall, blasting and powdercoating it so its smooth and clean, paint gone now. Glad I got a tilt, much easier to clean out. Bought some 2nd cutting from a neighbor baled with sisal twine. If I try to roll them to knock snow off they just fall apart. Only got 20 bales of that left. My net wrap grass runs thru pretty good but have slugged it a couple times where tractor couldn't recover and killed. Dad had an old Moeller tub grinder we used
  4. Son just purchased tractor in November from a guy I have bought equipment from before. He didnt mention anything about valve train issues, just that he had replaced mcv pump a couple of times since he got it in late 90s and that the clutch was weak. If it happens again we'll definitely check head. Couldn't see that guide was moved in the head, stem seals looked same height from cylinder to cylinder. There were 2 different styles of rockers on it however.
  5. Had to split sons 1456 for a broken rocker arm and weak clutch, got a chrome stack when finished. My 656 hydro is next in line, weak hydro. Also have a 345 to put together for dads 74 1700. Changed oil on the 5288 last night, it's going back on hay grinder today, it got a 3lm466 turbo from Mike in December along with muffler elimenator, grinder makes it talk with some of the tuffer hay this year. My 08 Honda has seen a lot of abuse, so I finally rebuilt the plastic, rear shocks, brake cables, front grille guard. Looks much better, hope it makes another 23000 miles
  6. This is a TA tractor that will operate a round bale processor and an 18' haybine. Washer looked good. It's back together now, planning on using it this afternoon on bale processor. Was -22° yesterday morning so I left the 5288 on the processor, the heater and cab is a lot better. Thanks for the info, if we have seal trouble we'll have to add the bushing. Do you know the measurement for the depth of the inner seal? I have a socket marked for the depth of the old seal, assuming it was installed correctly. I cant find it in my service manual, just that there is a special tool to set the seal, tha
  7. Same here, chem jugs are triple rinsed and burned along with hyd hoses, styrofoam packing, oil filters etc. One time jr. dumped old gas out of a pickup tank on the gravel and lit it. A neighbor called to see if it was serious or just getting rid of evidence, haha. I have a couple empty cattle lick tubes nearby that I put metal leftovers into. That gets thrown into the shop scrap and sold. The mrs. takes glass and tin cans to town to toss when she gets groceries, most places have a garbage can by the cart rack. Maybe not the best way to do things, but better than dumping everything into a draw
  8. My 2388 needed a chauffer a couple years ago. Got lucky the dealer had a take off that looked like new for about 400 I think, had worked well since
  9. I have had to cut a hose or 2 with die grinder or cutoff wheel after they rusted enough that the swivel fitting wouldn't turn. After cutting they spin right off. Taking out floor plate helps, but still pretty tight for some of them
  10. 4890 case and a 42' vibra shank. Still use 48 for pushing/packing silage. Try not to do any tillage anymore. MX200 pulling a 16 row 1250 planter. First pic shows 48 packing, dad had a 4690 with blade but would push trans fluid into engine, so we have since put blade on 48 and sold 46. Only picture I can find of planter
  11. So why is that bushing there? Is it for more support for ta input shaft on higher horsepower tractors? I talked to my dealer tech and he had never seen one. So I called Hy Cap and they said it's an aftermarket thing started for pulling tractors and isnt necessary. It's going together without the bushing
  12. My sons 1456 broke a rocker arm and we knew clutch would slip, so we split it to replace clutch and work on rocker arm since it was on #6. Ipto was worn as usual. After removing it, I see this bushing installed after the inner seal on the ipto gear. Clutch wasn't bad but was oily, making it slip. Rear main seal was a little wet and we replaced the seal and wear sleeve. I have never seen a bushing installed in the gear before. The ID of pto gear was wet, so I'm guessing that oily clutch result of leaking ipto seal. Is there a problem with TA that is pushing too much oil to this seal and someone
  13. I built some feed bunks for sheep last year similar to yours just with a wooden frame, a large improvement over the Kelly Ryan elevators I used before
  14. Got a couple lots for my sheep with no room for snow, we've been hauling it out north of the barn to build a snow fence. 78 IH truck, an ex fire truck, and the trusty old 560D with an F25 loader
  15. Ford y block.com, john mummert has a kit to put a c4 behind y blocks. I see he now can modify the bell housing to put a T5 5 speed behind one too, that might be more fun!
  16. Here's my 63, 292 with a truck 4 bbl intake and dual exhaust manifolds and glass packs. It was stuck when we drug it home, I rebuilt brakes, added 4 bbl and tuned it up after we got it loose again. Supposed to have 20k on an overhaul. Rad leaked so I put on an aluminum one and had some old school aluminum slots I put on. Steering box is loose and it needs cab mounts, but it sure sounds good. I plan on putting a c4 in it, clutch is weak and I dont need a granny 4 spd for a cruiser. Hopefully this summer I can get it back on the road again
  17. My shop has 12" in ceiling, and I think 8" batt insulation in walls. If I did it over, I'd spray foam everything. But it's used as a shop, 16' door opens nearly daily to get something in or out, and during -20° nights the bale processor and 5288 goes in at night mostly because I seldom run #1 fuel
  18. Floor heat set at 55 all the time. I added a forced air furnace a couple years ago just for ac. 55 a little cool if you're not working, but a little warm if really into a major project. Ac at 74 in summer makes the shop much more productive. Plan to add flue and hook up propane so forced air could be used to add heat quickly if needed but haven't done it yet. Floor heat is slow to add temp but as mentioned, warm feet makes all the difference. 50 x 50 x 14 steel building takes about 800 to 1000 gal propane per year depending on winter temps
  19. Got a dealer 45 miles from me that delivers bulk for free. Open house price this spring was 12.50 hytran, 12 for caseih 15w40
  20. I did that once on dad's 656, after that I put rockers on dry and after a warm up I'd retorque head, easy to see if it was oiling then
  21. Finished corn here on Friday. Last year this field went 187 and all planted, this year half planted and did 58. Glad it got cold early in the week so I could get this done. Kinda freaky driving with one set of dials on the ice,lol. This field avg 17.5% moisture. Had one field close to home that was 16%, but rest we took at 20% + and added alot of water to make a wet corn pile for feed. Had bad green snap from high wind in July and the 30 + inches of rain was a pinch too much and next year looks to be same judging by high levels of water in November
  22. It had a leak at rear of timing case when I got it, pulled cam gear to fix that. I'll have to pressure wash it better to see exactly where leak is now, but it looks like right side where tin cover bolts on, may be front seal. Cold it has 60 plus psi but when warm and you take off at idle, rpms drop to 750 and psi drops to 10 to 12 psi, just long enough to turn lights on then go off as rpms come back. As long as it's not going to hurt it, I'll check it out further after harvest and hay hauling. Really need it as wet a year as it's been. Thanks, Robert
  23. I bought a skid steer in IA, a combine in NE and a corn head in MN. Within 3 years I received a notice from the state that I owed use/sales tax on them. They audit dealerships in neighboring states and if it takes a couple years to catch up with you they want to charge interest too. Buying from a private seller bypasses the tax issue. I think its BS that they want to charge tax on a used piece of equipment, in or out of state purchased. Tax was charged when it was new, should be good enough. Generally the state govt cant spend it wisely anyway
  24. We finished silage 3 weeks ago. Many acres were poor, 30+ inches of rain this season was too much and stunted a lot of it. On higher ground it was nearly cab high. This ground is sandy so we got by ok, got stuck with truck once and left some ruts with cutter. I switched over to dark side this year with the 3950 cutter. This is only picture I took, hope next year is a little drier. Last years riverbottom was much better
  25. Used this 7120 to chop silage, by the end of the field, the oil light/stop engine lights would come on at idle, but go off when idled up to 1000. It did it only Intermittently. I put a gauge on a port towards back of block when I got home. Tractor warm but probably not as warm as when chopping, had 50+ at 2200, 18 at 850 idle. Left gauge on while using it for other chores. Lately has been running around 16 at idle, if I deadhead a remote it will pull idle down to 700, lights come on, pressure stays at 10lbs. I think sender is supposed to be set at around 10 lbs, so electrics I think are doing
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