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Posts posted by 1958560

  1. 3 hours ago, Little Red said:

    If you have 13 to 14 volts at cab stud then I would say your alternator is working fine, I would check grounds before replacing alternator 

    Ran it for a few hours yesterday, did read 4 bars on dash for voltage. With everything powered up it gets down to about 13.1 volts. I'm guessing problem was bare wire or connection at back of dash, seems to be working as good as it ever did

    • Like 1
  2. 1 hour ago, bitty said:

    Is it charging? There is a wire that takes 12 volt to the alternator to excite it if I remember correctly on those

    I pulled dash out and found a mouse nest and a couple chewed up wires. Patched them and now it shows 6 bars. Before it would be 0 to 2 bars. Running with no accessories on it shows 13.9 at cab stud. AC, radio, outback S2, raven 450, and Sirius radio on, the voltage drops to about 13.1. I'm going to run it today and see what it does, just didnt want the systems monitor to not work. May be time for an alternator, sure this could be original at 11500 hrs.

  3. The 7120 I spray with shows low or no voltage on the bar graph, low enough that the systems monitor green lite goes out. I have replaced the cab stud in right corner of cab and have around 14 volts there. Lights are bright and everything else works great. Does anyone have a wiring schematic for the dash from the lower right cab corner?

  4. 6 hours ago, bitty said:

    Have you tried the Yetter saw tooth closing disks ? We have been using them for 15 years , actually was another brand that looked identical but they must've went out of business or patent infringement. They have worked great for us.  We usually flip them on the bearings to be more aggressive than the stock position

    These? I put them on when I got the planter, usually work great, but had a few acres of riverbottom that was wet and soft, son hit it with a Salford and I planted it a couple days later. It carried tractor and planter and I thought it closed trench but as it dried more it shrunk and turned to concrete. It was slow emerging but did mostly come up. It really wasn't fit to plant yet in one corner, rest did fine. Think these came from shoup


    • Like 1
  5. In my area of SD, we are usually drier than wet. No till has been working well until the last 2 years when we had record rainfall and flooding. Last 2 years we have had to do some tillage to dry soil and incorporate residue. Prior to that, I was notill. I like to see residue completely covering the soil to help retain moisture. Must have good trash wheels on planter to blacken row to help warm soil. Last planter was a white with HD down pressure springs, floating trash whippers and one spiked closing wheel. Now run a 1250 CIH with precision parts. Deltaforce helps get seed at correct depth. The problem more often than not is closing the seed trench. A lot of my riverbottom land is a heavy clay type soil that can be hard to close seed trench if too wet. If you're lucky, a rain after planting will help with a partially open trench and will activate pre chemicals. Rest of ground is more sandy which doesn't hold water well. When dad farmed it by discing, field cultivating, and row cultivating he would be lucky to get into the low 100s on corn, usually under. After going to no till and adding more fertilizer, I have been knocking on the door to 200 bpa. Also, notill savings in time fuel and iron costs is substantial. I dont know if there is a place that can support notill indefinitely. Weather seems to be changing and that will dictate the practices that will be successful each year. 

  6. I have an 18 ft Salford, pulled it with a 7120 if its dry, but when we are trying to dry out wet fields, the 4890 pulls it an 10 to 12 mph. It doesn't turn ground black, never was intended to. It also doesn't incorporate fertilizer, maybe a little but not completely.  It is amazing what it will do for wet fields. With warm sunny weather a day will get you into the field to plant. I use it for residue and to level worked fields. For example we had many acres flooded by james river last 2 seasons. Finally got in with a 485 disc last fall, got stuff knocked down but ridged and no mulcher. Salford makes a better seed bed and levels out the high spots. If you need it turned black, use a disc. I dont think there is a perfect tillage tool, that's why we have a disc, field cultivator and the Salford. Dont use all three each year but usually at least one a little bit. We are no till unless it floods and we have to deal with cattails and other tall growth

  7. Got most of a day in with all working excellent. That is until 5:00, when the serpentine belt shredded itself. Local dealer didnt have it so mrs drove for 2 hrs to get one. Ground hay in the meantime. Finished first field right at dark. Thanks for all the help, Robert 

    • Like 2
  8. 47 minutes ago, IHCfarmer said:

    Boy I LOVE my 900 cyclo air planter with a seed flow II Monitor!!

    Dad unplugged the monitor on his jd 7000 30 years ago, just looks for seed at ends when he turns around. This newer stuff isnt all bad, just makes you think once in a while

  9. 1 hour ago, SDman said:

    You need the unloading valve and relief valve for the Multivalve?  I’ve got extras as we swap pto pumps on/ off of planters all the time. 


    Read this too late, I've got them now, lol. But if you can tell me for sure which ports they go in, that would be awesome!

  10. 7 hours ago, SDman said:

    Stupid me...you said this was on an MX200. Does it still have the original terminators? Original ones on those were these same active terminators. One behind the air filter access door and one behind the back cab panel with the SMV sign. We had problems with them on the Magnums so we replaced them with passive terminators, but we still use the active terminators on planters/yield monitors because of higher communication traffic. If you still have the active terminators on the Magnum, replace them with a pair of these($30-40 bucks apiece IIRC) and keep the active terminators for your planter harness. 


    This what you're talking about? Tech hooked up the new active terminator that I tried and got codes and no go with and now everything works fine!? In the meantime I installed a pto pump setup on the planter, but it keeps spinning the adapter off the pump. Apparently need to change a relief and unloader valve to switch to pto from tractor hydraulics. The mrs headed to Aberdeen to grab those, hopefully be going tomorrow. Thanks for all the help, very much appreciated!

  11. 14 minutes ago, SDman said:

    Sounds like the tractor harness is an older one that uses the 4-pin active terminator? Looks like a gold box that's about 3" x 5" wide? Newer ones use a little rubber plug-looking thing that's 6 pins. That should be the style on your planter harness.

    Yes, you can check the voltages on the tractor harness at the diagnostic connector. Check from pins H & J(Can Hi and Can Lo) to Pin A(ground). One should be just a little above 2.5v, the other just a little below 2.5v.

    Are the softwares compatible between the planter controllers and the Pro600?

    I needed one of those old-style active terminators ;last week on an older 1200 planter. Fortunately my precision farming tech had a spare one in his stash. 


    Yes, tractor harness uses the 4 pin active terminator, but has worked for 2 seasons without it? I installed tractor harness when I bought planter in 19, was never instructed on needing the active terminator, would think a complete harness would include all components? We installed the precision meters and down force before start of last season and is operated by the 20/20 display, no crossover between the 2 systems that I know of.  The 600 came with planter and dealer had to update software for variable rate prescriptions, everything worked fine first year except for air clutch problems, which was partially why we went to precision meters. What does the terminator do? Can they be tested with an ohmmeter? Thanks

  12. Incorrect point setting can change timing as well. Did it run well when parked? Ground test light and probe negative side of coil while cranking. Should get a clean flash as points open and close. If not points may be pitted, dirty, stuck or not set correctly 

  13. 6 hours ago, Iowa5288 said:

    You need to check the voltage on the can system, can go and can low (the yellow and green wires) checked to ground should add up to ~5v. Ohm between them at the diagnostic connector should be 60 ohms. If it is 120 you are missing a terminator most likely the one on the planter.  Check the ISO connector, I have had to replace pins in that connector.  For your information the RE number on that terminator is the John Deere part number.  It was $43 at CIH and $78 at Deere last I checked, AGCO uses the same one also. If you need one and one is less than 4 hr drove the cost doesn't matter.

    The tech claims voltages are correct. Check can go and low at diagnostic connector in cab? Iso pins all look straight and clean. Tech mentioned that terminator was JD number, maybe local deere dealer has the planter terminator, but the one that looks like a module on the cab harness was one of 2 in the state. Not sure why everything worked for 2 seasons without the cab terminator module, or if I really need it. It was around 220. Really only need 600 to fold/raise planter and operate vac fan as meters are precision vdrives.

  14. Bought a 12 1250 16 row front fold planter 3 years ago. Have used it two seasons, half way thru 3rd. Got corn done Friday night and home in shed. Saturday morning it gives an 18001 code on the pro600 and disables the rate ecu. It wont let me unfold or do anything really. Checked power, fuses all good. Its hooked to an mx200 that is not iso bus wired so I installed a universal harness to power 600. Had a tech look at it this morning and he thought there should be a little terminator on the universal harness. There is a plug there but never had a terminator installed. He thought that may have taken out terminator on planter harness near the ECU stack. So I drive 4 hrs to get these two terminators, plug them in and still get 18001, and now 2 28233 codes, one for frame ecu can bus and other for clutch can bus fault. So I unplugged terminator in cab on universal harness and try again and it works! Unfold, swap bean discs in, start it up, 18001 is back, nothing works. Anybody ever have any experience like this? Tech supposed to be back in the morning, so I guess we'll see what he guesses next. Thanks, Robert 

  15. Finally tore into it this spring, front cover was leaking lower right side so pulled that and while apart I pulled oil pump out. It was at high end of spec so I put an asap new one in. Now has 20 psi even at 600 rpm. Fixed a few hyd leaks as well, a few dollars in orings saves a lot of expensive hytran!

    • Like 1
  16. Our 4890 case has been slowly running a little less strong, but doing its job. Son used it all day Thursday and ran fine, but Friday morning it wanted to miss and smoke/ pop out the exhaust. We thought injector was stuck, as fuel was dripping from exhaust manifold joint at back of engine. Temp gauge showed #6 only running about 150 degrees. Pulled #6 injector and it seems to hold pressure and pop around 23-2400 psi with a good spray pattern. Yesterday put it back together and it sounds worse, really popping out the straight pipe and smoking. Now #1 only 150 degrees exhaust and fuel dripping from front manifold joint, as well as not hitting on # 6. Dont have a manual for this machine. Does anyone have valve specs and info on how to time injection pump? The pump had a lovejoy type coupler that drives it. I pulled top cover and found years of dirt grease, etc in there. During clean out I found a washer and nut for pump side of coupler. Other bolt is tight but possibly it has slipped inj timing? Any info or suggestions would be appreciated. New fuel filters in last 30 hrs and I pulled return line at pump and it has excellent return flow and hose to tank is clear. It makes no harsh mechanical noise and has little to no blow by. Thanks, Robert 

  17. 32 minutes ago, Weapon said:

    Yes the one under the step should run with key on and the heater blower works with the heater controller. Check your fuses first and reach in and see if the fan turns free with key off. Filter box and fan can be removed if necessary to replace fan. 


    Thanks, I thought cab was a little dusty, probably hasn't been working for a while. Ac may need a tune up as well, was a little warm last year

  18. Cleaned air filters today and noticed the cab filter behind the steps was pretty clean so I started tractor to see if fan runs. It didnt. A blower runs when key is on, but I was under the impression that for positive cab pressure, the one under the cab should be running, not the heat/ac blower under the seat. Am I wrong? If I turn fan switch by temp control down, fan speed decreases and stops when switch is turned to off. Thanks, Robert 

  19. Definitely will change filter and fluid, not sure if or when it's been serviced last. Tried to raise a 12" auger last fall and it couldn't do it, I'll pull hitch pump and inspect when fluid is drained. I put new mcv pump in my 1586 last winter, shaft bushings were very loose, I'll bet the 806 mcv not far behind 

  20. Neighbor wants help on his 806, pulls a 12 ft NH 499 haybine. Says hitch pump is slow. I plumbed a gauge in remote and get 1400 psi dead headed. Relief valve is 1600. I'd say it needs pump. Also, stops for a second when lifting haybine and turning. Lube pressure does drop to near zero when steering against stop in DD, but stays at 14 psi in TA. My book says DD leak in trans. Probably in TA, but anyone seen a jumper tube leak that could cause this? He wonders if a new mcv pump will get him going, at least for awhile? Thanks, Robert 

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