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Everything posted by 1958560

  1. Christine Die Hard John Wick Grumpy Old Men Joe Dirt
  2. We got a St. Croix corn/pellet stove around 8 years ago. I burn corn, just a 5 gal bucket morning and night, possibly a little more if -20 and we crank it up. Averages a bushel a day. Even at 7 corn, that's 210/month, I know many people that cant heat for that. No stat, on low setting it keeps living room 80°. Have propane forced air for cool nights and backup. Usually dont start corn stove until November or December. Has to be cold out or it gets too warm in house or end up shutting it down and relighting it. It does create a brick of unburned material that needs to be dumped nearly daily and I have replaced fans once. Used to have an aquatherm outdoor boiler till kids grew up. I can get my corn supply harvested in 10 minutes versus days for that hungry boiler. But like others say, it needs babysitting. When we're gone we set propane stat and shut corn down
  3. Apply early in spring after frost is out and I add a nitrogen stabilizer. Only takes 1/4 to 1/2" rain to incorporate it. P and K applied either spring or fall, same way. Whenever you choose, do it every year and previous years' fert will work it's way down. If you're renting it's not best scenario, but if you own ground it's an investment to the future. 11-52-00 is only fractionally available first year anyway. I put 3 to 5 gallons of a 6-24-6 starter that is supposed to be nearly all available. Some guys put all fert down with planter on a 2x2 system or after closing wheels
  4. I started with a 6 row 7000 in the early 2000s because it was affordable and dad wouldn't switch to 30s from 38s. It was too light, I'd fill liquid tanks to help but in hard ground there wasn't enough pressure on drive wheels and population would suffer. Then went to a 12 row white 6100 that worked well, just didnt like vertical fold. Next was 8100 white 16 row front fold and finally now to a 1250 caseih 16 front fold. I added precision planting equipment to it, but it did the job without as well. Take your time and look, there are good ones out there. Just remember to dig, dig, dig behind the planter. Loose soil will make nearly any planter look good. Check seed depth and make sure seed trench is closed well, although sandy soils are more forgiving in that respect. Heavy, clay types, especially when you should wait a week are the toughest to close
  5. Tillage will help release nutrients in the residue quicker but is not a long term solution for soil health. The residue on the surface is minor compared to the root biomass below the surface. That is really what is benefit of notill. As your organic matter increases, the fertility that it releases is substantial as it breaks down during the season. The surface residue helps to cover the soil to keep in season temps lower and to keep moisture from evaporating, which promotes soil biological activity. Earthworms and microbes help turn organic matter into nutrients faster. I forget all the numbers, but for nitrogen, each % of organic matter as it breaks down releases 20 to 40 lbs of nitrogen for the plant to use. All I can say is that I fertilize for crop removal or less and have been getting very good yields. My fertilizer gal doesn't like my recs compared to hers, lol. Farming today is much more than turning soil, planting seed and hoping for the best. Not sure what part of MN you are in, but I would recommend attending a soil fertility clinic put on by the Hefty Seed Co. Learning how to read a soil test is very helpful. Funny how the coop that is selling you fertilizer doesn't explain that! The key is to never stop learning and ask a lot of questions. Just because Dad and Grandpa did it this way for 50 years doesn't make it right. Dr Beck at Dakota lakes has sandy ground and has been notill for many years. I have heard that his soil can absorb 8"+ of moisture in an hour without running off. You mentioned erosion, so you can understand this. Even deep ripping creates a pan, just deeper than shallow plow pans.
  6. No matter what tillage you do, it creates a hard pan at that level. Here we have sandy soil as well and I have tried to keep it no till except for some strip till and after 19 and 20s record rainfall we had to do some tillage to handle cattails. I dont do all strip till, but on years when fertilizer is affordable I like it to increase p and k below the surface as they hardly move from the top. My dad would plow every acre as well, but for last 20 years they have been parked. I have taken ground that he had trouble with wet spots and weed pressure where he would be lucky to get into triple digit yields and using no till raised the yield on corn to double. Less ground disturbance slows weed germination. Adding a nitrogen stabilizer will help with spring leaching as well. Emerging corn on a black field is nice to look at, but seeing it come up thru residue and it stays clean is just so beautiful. And that tillage just costs money every trip. I'd recommend trying it on one field, search internet for info and realize that it's a learning process that takes years to perfect. Research Dakota Lakes Research farm in pierre, sd. Remember, you dont harvest your crops in June! No till may be a tad behind in June, but by harvest you cant tell a difference. Good luck!
  7. Have been thinking about another loader tractor and have seen a couple mx110 or 120 advertised with a PS gear out. What do parts run to rebuild the ps trans? We can do labor ourselves. Would use tractor for loading/unloading hay on semi trailer mostly and as a lever backup if 560/f25 goes down for loading feed wagon. Probably 18 ft haybine during summer and auger at harvest. What else should be scrutinized?
  8. Built my shop 18 years ago and still dont have everything where it should be. Seems like every year need to add and/or remove something. But it sure beats what we had before! Looks good, sure you will really enjoy it!
  9. Father in law got an 826 from his brother in law after he passed. They couldn't get it started at the sale, so dad brought it home. After checking timing, fuel, air he wanted to know if fan was a reverse rotation. Apparently bil put wrong starter on a while back and hadn't run since
  10. Summer fill here was 1.29 and I contracted enough to get thru winter at 1.49. I remember when I built shop in 03 price was .60. Yesterday their price was 2.04
  11. My 5288 spends a lot of time on a hay grinder. When its loaded down and working, the governor in the pump will try to hold pto rpm. As load decreases, the rpms will go up until its fully loaded. Wide open rpm and governed rpm are 2 different numbers. If you can run 24-2600 rpm during tillage, you are not using all available power
  12. Finished beans here this week after nearly 2 inches of rain in the last week. Dry here this summer, but happy with yields, anywhere from 30 to 55 and with a good price, we'll be around to farm 1 more year! Had a few hiccups with the new to us machine, but seems to be working well now. Been on corn for a couple days now full steam ahead
  13. Got my mx 200 on the grain cart because 7120 radiator started leaking at top seam. Used the 200 all spring for planting but this fall sometimes when I fire it up the a post lights up then goes out, tractor still running. Have to restart, sometimes a couple times to get them to stay on so it can be driven. Is there a relay or something that is giving up?
  14. We finished up here Sept 9 after what we called a dry year. This was a 105 day silage variety and another 104 dual purpose split every 16 rows throughout field. The 3950 chopper/ 2 row head would only take it at 4 mph or less. The 5288 could go faster but just end up plugging the feed rolls on chopper. This was on james river riverbottom which helped and we at least had subsoil moisture to tap into. We figured it did about 17 ton/acre
  15. Make sure to roll down hill only in DD, in TA bad things happen
  16. Looks good! How was the hay crop there? We got by pretty good here but was less than last year. Sure could use some moisture!
  17. Shorten the link between the clutch and ta clutch release shafts half turn at a time until it doesn't bind
  18. I have a 86 series starter on my 560, it can be clocked in many positions, I didnt think 806 starter was. Dad had one on his 560, believe the steering shaft bracket fits around the solenoid bump. This is a picture of my 560 w a 10/1486 starter. The hydraulic pressure line needs a slight bend to clear starter
  19. I think diesel has more head bolts than a gas, and in different places
  20. I pull an 06 summers 90' with my 7120, had this one since 13, before this pulled an older dragging boom 90' summers for about 8 years. Like tractorholic said, one of the best investments I've ever made. Around 1500 acres per year sprayed twice. Local ag dealers get 7 plus per acre. The sprayer pays for itself pretty quick. Would be nice to upgrade to a self propelled
  21. May have to shift down a gear on that tall stuff
  22. Isnt there still 2 small half moon keys to lock release bearing carrier onto shaft? I was thinking the set score just kept carrier from moving side to side?
  23. Got the 4408 locked down. Was my cousin's, she added and bought new in 15. One year had green snap bad and another had hail and last year he hired harvest done. Only had maybe 2k acres on it. Should keep the mrs happy if we dont break down, shes the combine operator
  24. We got by ok, but 2208 seemed bad on butt shelling and had a few stalk roll bolts break or spin out. Also broke a couple stalk roll shafts. Otherwise it worked fine, but it is time to upgrade.
  25. Upgraded the 2388 to a 7088 and need a corn head. Just wondering what you guys know/think about either of these. My cousin has a 4408 that has maybe a couple thousand acres on it that I could deal with him on. His comparison was like a 1066 to an 8950, lol. Had a 2208 and got by ok with it, but time to get something better, thanks
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