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Everything posted by 1958560

  1. Latest addition here. Neighbor got this from a jockey for 1k. He wanted the one nearly new 15.5 rear. Other was rotten along with rim. Been setting for 5 years. Hooked on and pulled it about 500 feet and it was running. Changed fuel filters and threw on this $75 set of auction 20.8s to test drive. Seems to run good, PS works but nothing happens when pull TA, just stays in direct. Son offered him 600 and we will dismount tire for him. Looks like a monster with the 20.8s
  2. We tried roundup ready sweet corn a few years back but it tasted more like field than sweet corn. Been conventional ever since. I usually have a little chemical left from conventional field corn and spray it with my 4 wheeler sprayer. Seed dealer gives me 3 to 4 lbs per year.
  3. Yup, wasnt too bad. Cleaned it up with pressure washer and removed grill and didn't take long to swap them out. I just left the foam out in that corner under the radiator
  4. Are you meaning the radiator mounting stud? Can I get to that without pulling radiator mounting plate? I replaced radiator a few years back and remember it wasn't fun
  5. Any advice on replacing oil cooler hoses on my 7120? Looks very tight to get them slid out under radiator and engine front cover?
  6. When I start my 560D in the winter at 0 or below it takes 30 seconds to start the needle moving
  7. Ran it for a few hours yesterday, did read 4 bars on dash for voltage. With everything powered up it gets down to about 13.1 volts. I'm guessing problem was bare wire or connection at back of dash, seems to be working as good as it ever did
  8. I pulled dash out and found a mouse nest and a couple chewed up wires. Patched them and now it shows 6 bars. Before it would be 0 to 2 bars. Running with no accessories on it shows 13.9 at cab stud. AC, radio, outback S2, raven 450, and Sirius radio on, the voltage drops to about 13.1. I'm going to run it today and see what it does, just didnt want the systems monitor to not work. May be time for an alternator, sure this could be original at 11500 hrs.
  9. The 7120 I spray with shows low or no voltage on the bar graph, low enough that the systems monitor green lite goes out. I have replaced the cab stud in right corner of cab and have around 14 volts there. Lights are bright and everything else works great. Does anyone have a wiring schematic for the dash from the lower right cab corner?
  10. These? I put them on when I got the planter, usually work great, but had a few acres of riverbottom that was wet and soft, son hit it with a Salford and I planted it a couple days later. It carried tractor and planter and I thought it closed trench but as it dried more it shrunk and turned to concrete. It was slow emerging but did mostly come up. It really wasn't fit to plant yet in one corner, rest did fine. Think these came from shoup
  11. In my area of SD, we are usually drier than wet. No till has been working well until the last 2 years when we had record rainfall and flooding. Last 2 years we have had to do some tillage to dry soil and incorporate residue. Prior to that, I was notill. I like to see residue completely covering the soil to help retain moisture. Must have good trash wheels on planter to blacken row to help warm soil. Last planter was a white with HD down pressure springs, floating trash whippers and one spiked closing wheel. Now run a 1250 CIH with precision parts. Deltaforce helps get seed at correct depth. The problem more often than not is closing the seed trench. A lot of my riverbottom land is a heavy clay type soil that can be hard to close seed trench if too wet. If you're lucky, a rain after planting will help with a partially open trench and will activate pre chemicals. Rest of ground is more sandy which doesn't hold water well. When dad farmed it by discing, field cultivating, and row cultivating he would be lucky to get into the low 100s on corn, usually under. After going to no till and adding more fertilizer, I have been knocking on the door to 200 bpa. Also, notill savings in time fuel and iron costs is substantial. I dont know if there is a place that can support notill indefinitely. Weather seems to be changing and that will dictate the practices that will be successful each year.
  12. I have an 18 ft Salford, pulled it with a 7120 if its dry, but when we are trying to dry out wet fields, the 4890 pulls it an 10 to 12 mph. It doesn't turn ground black, never was intended to. It also doesn't incorporate fertilizer, maybe a little but not completely. It is amazing what it will do for wet fields. With warm sunny weather a day will get you into the field to plant. I use it for residue and to level worked fields. For example we had many acres flooded by james river last 2 seasons. Finally got in with a 485 disc last fall, got stuff knocked down but ridged and no mulcher. Salford makes a better seed bed and levels out the high spots. If you need it turned black, use a disc. I dont think there is a perfect tillage tool, that's why we have a disc, field cultivator and the Salford. Dont use all three each year but usually at least one a little bit. We are no till unless it floods and we have to deal with cattails and other tall growth
  13. Got most of a day in with all working excellent. That is until 5:00, when the serpentine belt shredded itself. Local dealer didnt have it so mrs drove for 2 hrs to get one. Ground hay in the meantime. Finished first field right at dark. Thanks for all the help, Robert
  14. Dad unplugged the monitor on his jd 7000 30 years ago, just looks for seed at ends when he turns around. This newer stuff isnt all bad, just makes you think once in a while
  15. Read this too late, I've got them now, lol. But if you can tell me for sure which ports they go in, that would be awesome!
  16. This what you're talking about? Tech hooked up the new active terminator that I tried and got codes and no go with and now everything works fine!? In the meantime I installed a pto pump setup on the planter, but it keeps spinning the adapter off the pump. Apparently need to change a relief and unloader valve to switch to pto from tractor hydraulics. The mrs headed to Aberdeen to grab those, hopefully be going tomorrow. Thanks for all the help, very much appreciated!
  17. Thanks, I'll check it
  18. Yes, tractor harness uses the 4 pin active terminator, but has worked for 2 seasons without it? I installed tractor harness when I bought planter in 19, was never instructed on needing the active terminator, would think a complete harness would include all components? We installed the precision meters and down force before start of last season and is operated by the 20/20 display, no crossover between the 2 systems that I know of. The 600 came with planter and dealer had to update software for variable rate prescriptions, everything worked fine first year except for air clutch problems, which was partially why we went to precision meters. What does the terminator do? Can they be tested with an ohmmeter? Thanks
  19. Incorrect point setting can change timing as well. Did it run well when parked? Ground test light and probe negative side of coil while cranking. Should get a clean flash as points open and close. If not points may be pitted, dirty, stuck or not set correctly
  20. The tech claims voltages are correct. Check can go and low at diagnostic connector in cab? Iso pins all look straight and clean. Tech mentioned that terminator was JD number, maybe local deere dealer has the planter terminator, but the one that looks like a module on the cab harness was one of 2 in the state. Not sure why everything worked for 2 seasons without the cab terminator module, or if I really need it. It was around 220. Really only need 600 to fold/raise planter and operate vac fan as meters are precision vdrives.
  21. Bought a 12 1250 16 row front fold planter 3 years ago. Have used it two seasons, half way thru 3rd. Got corn done Friday night and home in shed. Saturday morning it gives an 18001 code on the pro600 and disables the rate ecu. It wont let me unfold or do anything really. Checked power, fuses all good. Its hooked to an mx200 that is not iso bus wired so I installed a universal harness to power 600. Had a tech look at it this morning and he thought there should be a little terminator on the universal harness. There is a plug there but never had a terminator installed. He thought that may have taken out terminator on planter harness near the ECU stack. So I drive 4 hrs to get these two terminators, plug them in and still get 18001, and now 2 28233 codes, one for frame ecu can bus and other for clutch can bus fault. So I unplugged terminator in cab on universal harness and try again and it works! Unfold, swap bean discs in, start it up, 18001 is back, nothing works. Anybody ever have any experience like this? Tech supposed to be back in the morning, so I guess we'll see what he guesses next. Thanks, Robert
  22. Finally tore into it this spring, front cover was leaking lower right side so pulled that and while apart I pulled oil pump out. It was at high end of spec so I put an asap new one in. Now has 20 psi even at 600 rpm. Fixed a few hyd leaks as well, a few dollars in orings saves a lot of expensive hytran!
  23. Pressure fan is junk, blows fuses nearly immediately. Any aftermarket source for these?
  24. Yup, injection pump timing was terribly retarded. Jr found timing procedure online somewhere and got it set back where it belongs. Runs like it should now
  25. Our 4890 case has been slowly running a little less strong, but doing its job. Son used it all day Thursday and ran fine, but Friday morning it wanted to miss and smoke/ pop out the exhaust. We thought injector was stuck, as fuel was dripping from exhaust manifold joint at back of engine. Temp gauge showed #6 only running about 150 degrees. Pulled #6 injector and it seems to hold pressure and pop around 23-2400 psi with a good spray pattern. Yesterday put it back together and it sounds worse, really popping out the straight pipe and smoking. Now #1 only 150 degrees exhaust and fuel dripping from front manifold joint, as well as not hitting on # 6. Dont have a manual for this machine. Does anyone have valve specs and info on how to time injection pump? The pump had a lovejoy type coupler that drives it. I pulled top cover and found years of dirt grease, etc in there. During clean out I found a washer and nut for pump side of coupler. Other bolt is tight but possibly it has slipped inj timing? Any info or suggestions would be appreciated. New fuel filters in last 30 hrs and I pulled return line at pump and it has excellent return flow and hose to tank is clear. It makes no harsh mechanical noise and has little to no blow by. Thanks, Robert
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