Jump to content

1958560

Members
  • Content Count

    480
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

52 Excellent

About 1958560

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 07/20/1974

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Huron, SD

Recent Profile Visitors

1,661 profile views
  1. I dont have a problem splitting tractor, but too much I dont know about hydros stops me from tearing into it. From what I gather, lots of internals with exacting tolerances, just decided to pick my battles
  2. Yes, I do. I just wanted to know if anyone had experience elsewhere. They are further away and a little more expensive. I did after all buy their test kit, which was enough in itself, for a half dozen fittings and 2 gauges with 1 hose. They could have at least included a second hose so 2 pressures could be checked simultaneously. Do you suppose they sell a hydro to everyone who calls with a question? If I went elsewhere, I planned on sending something for their trouble, because it is appreciated when someone offers help
  3. I built my shop in 03, and I was too cheap. Spray foam insulation is a great investment. Running water inside with a floor drain for sure and possibly a restroom. Unless your concrete guy is perfect, without a drain, you'll be squeegee water out when you bring a wet, snow covered machine in. I have floor heat, I would recommend it. AC makes the shop much easier to work in during summer. I added a used house furnace for the AC air handler and plan on plumbing the furnace vent so I can kick it on to raise temp quickly if needed. When younger dad and I worked in a narrow space as you are planning, way too tight. No room on sides for opening doors, cherry picker, removing rear tires, etc. Best advice is plan, plan and plan some more. Good luck!
  4. I have the test kit from Herrs, drive pressure is not up to spec for forward or reverse. In high range, it will get up to road speed, but applying the brakes will stop motion with little to no load applied to engine. Forward is better than reverse, but not strong by any means. It would barely back up the very slight incline into my shop. I got this tractor on an auction a couple years ago and haven't used it due to weak hydro. Previous owner did some work to it but couldnt fix it, so he parked it. Anybody's guess if what he tried to fix was good or bad, so it's time to get it done right. Charge pressure is a little under spec sitting still, but when stroked either direction it drops to about 20 psi or less, but does come back up to around 100 after its moving. As soon as brakes applied to load engine, psi drops off again. I isolated drive control and foot and inch valves with no change. According to Raleigh, it's got a leak internally, and/or charge pump problems. He was helpful on the phone. I was leaning towards Herrs, just wondering what others thought. Thanks!
  5. Got a 656 hydro that is very weak, especially in reverse, and have been talking with Herrs in KS about it. I'm thinking about taking it there to get fixed, but a buddy says Stoen's in Glenwood MN did good on a couple of AC garden tractor hydros. Anyone have experience with either company? I like that herrs can run it on test stand, but will probably be a little more $$ than Stoens
  6. Just got this 1100 last fall, 5088 handles it ok, but plenty of wet hay around. It plugs between the right screen and sidewall. Wondered about removing the sidewall, blasting and powdercoating it so its smooth and clean, paint gone now. Glad I got a tilt, much easier to clean out. Bought some 2nd cutting from a neighbor baled with sisal twine. If I try to roll them to knock snow off they just fall apart. Only got 20 bales of that left. My net wrap grass runs thru pretty good but have slugged it a couple times where tractor couldn't recover and killed. Dad had an old Moeller tub grinder we used years ago but couldn't handle 1100 lb bales, couldn't turn tub just a tire gripping tub to turn. I remember him replacing pto clutches on the 806 and 856 a few times. Haybuster much better machine. When I get planter out of shed, I'll try mx200 to see if it does any better. 5088 dynoed at 178 when I got it before an overhaul and 3lm466 turbo. Jr wants to put his 1456 on it, too
  7. Son just purchased tractor in November from a guy I have bought equipment from before. He didnt mention anything about valve train issues, just that he had replaced mcv pump a couple of times since he got it in late 90s and that the clutch was weak. If it happens again we'll definitely check head. Couldn't see that guide was moved in the head, stem seals looked same height from cylinder to cylinder. There were 2 different styles of rockers on it however.
  8. Had to split sons 1456 for a broken rocker arm and weak clutch, got a chrome stack when finished. My 656 hydro is next in line, weak hydro. Also have a 345 to put together for dads 74 1700. Changed oil on the 5288 last night, it's going back on hay grinder today, it got a 3lm466 turbo from Mike in December along with muffler elimenator, grinder makes it talk with some of the tuffer hay this year. My 08 Honda has seen a lot of abuse, so I finally rebuilt the plastic, rear shocks, brake cables, front grille guard. Looks much better, hope it makes another 23000 miles
  9. This is a TA tractor that will operate a round bale processor and an 18' haybine. Washer looked good. It's back together now, planning on using it this afternoon on bale processor. Was -22° yesterday morning so I left the 5288 on the processor, the heater and cab is a lot better. Thanks for the info, if we have seal trouble we'll have to add the bushing. Do you know the measurement for the depth of the inner seal? I have a socket marked for the depth of the old seal, assuming it was installed correctly. I cant find it in my service manual, just that there is a special tool to set the seal, thanks
  10. 1958560

    Sad but true

    Same here, chem jugs are triple rinsed and burned along with hyd hoses, styrofoam packing, oil filters etc. One time jr. dumped old gas out of a pickup tank on the gravel and lit it. A neighbor called to see if it was serious or just getting rid of evidence, haha. I have a couple empty cattle lick tubes nearby that I put metal leftovers into. That gets thrown into the shop scrap and sold. The mrs. takes glass and tin cans to town to toss when she gets groceries, most places have a garbage can by the cart rack. Maybe not the best way to do things, but better than dumping everything into a draw in the pasture for someone else to clean up, like my grandparents did
  11. My 2388 needed a chauffer a couple years ago. Got lucky the dealer had a take off that looked like new for about 400 I think, had worked well since
  12. I have had to cut a hose or 2 with die grinder or cutoff wheel after they rusted enough that the swivel fitting wouldn't turn. After cutting they spin right off. Taking out floor plate helps, but still pretty tight for some of them
  13. 4890 case and a 42' vibra shank. Still use 48 for pushing/packing silage. Try not to do any tillage anymore. MX200 pulling a 16 row 1250 planter. First pic shows 48 packing, dad had a 4690 with blade but would push trans fluid into engine, so we have since put blade on 48 and sold 46. Only picture I can find of planter
  14. So why is that bushing there? Is it for more support for ta input shaft on higher horsepower tractors? I talked to my dealer tech and he had never seen one. So I called Hy Cap and they said it's an aftermarket thing started for pulling tractors and isnt necessary. It's going together without the bushing
  15. My sons 1456 broke a rocker arm and we knew clutch would slip, so we split it to replace clutch and work on rocker arm since it was on #6. Ipto was worn as usual. After removing it, I see this bushing installed after the inner seal on the ipto gear. Clutch wasn't bad but was oily, making it slip. Rear main seal was a little wet and we replaced the seal and wear sleeve. I have never seen a bushing installed in the gear before. The ID of pto gear was wet, so I'm guessing that oily clutch result of leaking ipto seal. Is there a problem with TA that is pushing too much oil to this seal and someone tried the bushing to take up some clearance and help protect seal? TA works fine, of course we didnt check pressures before disassembly and dump valve tell lite was disconnected and inop. Any guesses? Thanks Robert
×
×
  • Create New...