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Mike56073

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Everything posted by Mike56073

  1. Do what I did, I put a speed app on the phone, took the tractor on a road and started adjusting until the dash matched the phone. Then you won’t have to go WAY over to the toolbox for a tape measure 😬😬
  2. I would invest in a cooling system pressure tester. I think I got mine for $100 or less, and use it more often than a guy would think.
  3. A few things...... First, your turbine housing is broke, you need a new turbo. Second, I might be wrong, but that new spacer looks like the wrong one. The ones in my 5288 and 5488 are twice as long as that one and dont have grooves in them, just shoulders for the seals to go against. Google 1252474C2, thats what you should have. You should be able to reuse the spacer once you get it out and remove the turbine house end. It that were mine I'd get a new eliminator too, judging from what the end looks like.
  4. That is the master cylinder for the wheels. There should be a couple of hoses going from that cylinder out to the lift wheels
  5. You need to remove the back fuel tank, then the hitch cover. The piston/cylinder comes out with the hitch cover. It’s not fun to do, but I’ve done worse jobs. I’d get a service manual before I tackled it. My tractor would lower the arms down in a few hours, and if I crap it off with an implement attached it would come down within 5 minutes. When I looked inside the top link cover opening, there was a steady trickle of oil coming from the piston seal.
  6. I would get the draft linkage back together, then I would take the top link cover off and see if the piston seal is blown. If it is you’ll see oil running out of the piston. Do the arms stay up in the air when the tractor is crap off or they drop within a few minutes?
  7. I know this sounds stupid, but are the flow adjusters turned to the “slow” position? Does the 3pt work?
  8. Hy-Capacity #8301167 is the kit for the shift collars and stub shaft.
  9. The OP hasn’t said what the asking price is yet I was just saying that’s what it would bring around here. It’s amazing I’ve looked at a lot of 5x88 series tractors on dealer lots. Most of them the interiors are shredded with an inch of mud on the floor, and they still want gold for them!!
  10. X2, and I’ve also seen the switches get corrosion inside themselves. It’s not difficult to take them apart to clean them
  11. I resealed the diff lock, and reassembled it with new snap rings and shimmed it using a couple of shims from McMaster Carr. I just didn’t like how the whole assembly had so much up/down play that it was hitting the inside of the cover(see photo). The right to fix it would’ve been to get a new diff lock housing but it’s NLA. Anyways now it only has about .005” slop in it with the shims, should last quite a few more years. Just an FYI type of thing in case someone else ever comes across this!
  12. Did the exact same thing last winter to my 966. Mine has a year a round cab. I ended up loosening the front cab mounts and tilting the whole cab up and back about 2 feet. Don’t know if yours is the same. I had to be careful and have some supports in place to be sure the cab didn’t go over center backwards.
  13. Around here that tractor will fetch 15K all day long, just as it sits
  14. Just out of curiosity how far off was it once it was warmed up?
  15. I was always told that the motor priority valve is #1. Whatever/however they are numbered, the one closest to the driver is the one I’m having issues with. I’ll double check the neutral adjustment, if that’s fine I’ll check the spool then. The good thing is that’s the valve on the very outside of the stack.
  16. Yes it’s only on #4. I’ve gone to #1 and the implements stay up like they should. This is with the DMI ripper and also the field cultivator
  17. Working again on the #4 remote on my 5488(1984). When I have an implement hooked to it, the implement wont stay up once the fluid is warmed up. It only does this on #4(closest to the driver). For example, I can be hooked to the ripper, lift out of the ground on the headlands, and by the time I’m turned around the ripper has already settled a few inches. The only thing I’ve replaced so far is the signal check spring. It was pretty much crushed. According to my service manual, there should be an alternating check valve back there, but I can’t find it. My 5288(1982) has one(see pi
  18. Working on the brakes on my 966, on the right side I had to remove the differential lock assembly. When I pulled the outer cover off, I noticed that the whole assembly seemed to be really loose on the bull pinion shaft. The shaft splines don’t seem to be worn excessively. Is this normal for these, or do I have something going wrong. It wasn’t making noise, and last time I used it, it worked perfectly.
  19. I got one last fall from this company, it was a little over $200 and took over 3 weeks to get
  20. I’ve tried a couple of chrome pipes on my 5488. They all turned blue within a few hours of run time. Is this normal? I’m talking a blue color that won’t polish out and then turns to rust.
  21. Mike56073

    Sentry

    yep, i've had that happen too! That's where I'd plug a test harness in to at least get me home
  22. Mike56073

    Sentry

    It wont help. That sentry is watching a pair of pressure switches all of the time for a loss of fluid pressure in the clutch pack when its engaged. Its also cross checking to make sure that the disengaged clutch pack doesn't have fluid pressure in it. If either of these 2 things happen the sentry will disable some or all functions to protect the internals. It's not a foolproof/troublefree system, but to me its better than the alternative. The test harness is just a couple of relays that energize the shift solenoids when you move the speed lever, regardless of what the transmission
  23. Mike56073

    Sentry

    Both the test harness and/or the sentry are located in the pedestal down between the clutch/brake pedals. There’s a cover down there that pops off and exposes the fuse block. The sentry will be a square box bolted to the left side, while the test harness will be a couple of relays with a bunch of wires all loose in there.
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