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About Iowa5288

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  • Birthday 12/30/1977

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    Northeast Iowa

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  1. The wife and I went for a drive after I got off work yesterday. She got some pics of some red combines in action.
  2. Thinking about a side by side. Looking at either a Mule Pro FXT or a Pioneer 1000 -5. I don't want a long wheelbase multi seat like a ranger, gator, mahindra. I would like an opinion between the two in actual working conditions.
  3. That rear half is the one that lived at NICC in Calmar IA I believe. If I saw it in person I could tell you for sure. The long lever on the shift valve was an easy way to shift it and show what gear it was in for the whole class at once. We would run it with the test gauges on it in transmission class. It was powered by and 8.3 at the time. The engine adapted was "fab shop" built not like a production tractor. The whole thing came in a box in pieces and was put back together by Instructor Dave Amdahl.
  4. I have had trouble using that snowplow type solenoid in the past, I got a starter solenoid at the local parts store. The solenoid is heavy enough for the load but isn't rated for continuous duty. After running for 5 hr straight it decided to start smoking. That new style from CIH has been reliable, but can be a bear to mount and attach wires in the original Magnum's.
  5. I'll second the shredder grate with notched bars on the rotor, if you have a chaff spreader it is hard to tell the difference between that and a chopper. A lot of the thumping in the rotor goes away also. It goes in place of the last grate.
  6. The header is tipped forward. Pete the 11 deg. Is close in work position when you are on a hard surface.
  7. First you need to go to the hardware store and get a magnetic protractor. You put the protractor on the backsheet between the auger trough and top frame tube. Ideally the angle is checked in the field in operating position with a half full hopper. If checking in the yard just set the head down so that the cutterbar just touches. If the angle is incorrect you need to change the faceplate angle. On a 1400 series you need to remove the bolts and choose the set of holes that are closest to the angle you want. On a 1600 or newer you loosen ALL the bolts and use the draw bolts on the faceplate
  8. With the differences in the way they attach I would not try to lift a head on the cart with the red combine. With my luck I would have it half way over the cart and fall off wrecking both the cart and head. With the comments on a Deere head doing a better job than a red head, some adjustments need to be done. Deere better than a 820 or 2020 I wouldn't argue, but both of those heads are built similar to a Deere. The reason you will not see a 820/1020 on a Deere is the fact that the feeder is narrower than Deere and an adapter sets the head further ahead leaving a "dead" area between the auge
  9. I cannot get it co come up in etim or ngpc. I found it in a link on a 2003 bulletin. Thanks.
  10. Does anyone have a copy of bulletin NTRSB 012 95 around? It does not come up in the CNH portal and the service bulletin book has seemed to grow legs.
  11. The shanks do not use a standard u bolt, so finding a common one or using plate and bolts won't work.
  12. Just purchased a Bush Hog 1550 Disk Chisel. Ended up replacing the bearings in one gang, which were easy enough to come up with. When looking at it in December in a cold dark pole shed I missed that 2 shank mounting "u bolts" are missing. The dealer that the previous owner dealt with said that he had purchased the last ones they had several years ago, and they did not have any more. She checked with a different dealer and they have them, but at $58 each. Does anyone have or know of a resource for these bolts? If I can't find them cheaper I will have to bite the bullet and pay the price, I
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