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About Iowa5288

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    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 12/30/1977

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    Northeast Iowa

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  1. I have had trouble using that snowplow type solenoid in the past, I got a starter solenoid at the local parts store. The solenoid is heavy enough for the load but isn't rated for continuous duty. After running for 5 hr straight it decided to start smoking. That new style from CIH has been reliable, but can be a bear to mount and attach wires in the original Magnum's.
  2. I'll second the shredder grate with notched bars on the rotor, if you have a chaff spreader it is hard to tell the difference between that and a chopper. A lot of the thumping in the rotor goes away also. It goes in place of the last grate.
  3. The header is tipped forward. Pete the 11 deg. Is close in work position when you are on a hard surface.
  4. First you need to go to the hardware store and get a magnetic protractor. You put the protractor on the backsheet between the auger trough and top frame tube. Ideally the angle is checked in the field in operating position with a half full hopper. If checking in the yard just set the head down so that the cutterbar just touches. If the angle is incorrect you need to change the faceplate angle. On a 1400 series you need to remove the bolts and choose the set of holes that are closest to the angle you want. On a 1600 or newer you loosen ALL the bolts and use the draw bolts on the faceplate to adjust the angle, the draw bolts won't pull the plate back with a head on it. I'll post a pic with a 2020 off a combine on the ground
  5. With the differences in the way they attach I would not try to lift a head on the cart with the red combine. With my luck I would have it half way over the cart and fall off wrecking both the cart and head. With the comments on a Deere head doing a better job than a red head, some adjustments need to be done. Deere better than a 820 or 2020 I wouldn't argue, but both of those heads are built similar to a Deere. The reason you will not see a 820/1020 on a Deere is the fact that the feeder is narrower than Deere and an adapter sets the head further ahead leaving a "dead" area between the auger and feeder chain. If a 1020/3020 is not shaving the ground or pushing the first thing to check is the back sheet angle. A 1020 should be 10deg. 2020 17deg. 3020 15deg. adjustments to this angle may be necessary but start there. On all combines with header problems check the tire pressure, on tire lower on pressure or a different height (different tire). On non field tracker combines check that the header is parallel to the ground, if it is not you need to twist the feeder with the draw bolt so that it is. Make sure the poly is in good shape and doesn't have holes causing crop to drag. Make sure the feelers are free and completely return to touch the arms. The feelers can be individually adjusted to touch the arms. If the cutterbar backer bar is bent it will cause dragging, it can be bent back with blocks and pallet forks. If your red head is not cutting with or out cutting a Deere look it over because it can.
  6. I cannot get it co come up in etim or ngpc. I found it in a link on a 2003 bulletin. Thanks.
  7. Does anyone have a copy of bulletin NTRSB 012 95 around? It does not come up in the CNH portal and the service bulletin book has seemed to grow legs.
  8. The shanks do not use a standard u bolt, so finding a common one or using plate and bolts won't work.
  9. Just purchased a Bush Hog 1550 Disk Chisel. Ended up replacing the bearings in one gang, which were easy enough to come up with. When looking at it in December in a cold dark pole shed I missed that 2 shank mounting "u bolts" are missing. The dealer that the previous owner dealt with said that he had purchased the last ones they had several years ago, and they did not have any more. She checked with a different dealer and they have them, but at $58 each. Does anyone have or know of a resource for these bolts? If I can't find them cheaper I will have to bite the bullet and pay the price, I just hate to pay 1/5 of my purchase price for 2 bolts..My good may not be so good......I guess that is what happens when you buy what you can afford.
  10. We got a new head from Abeline Machine. The old one could maybe be repaired but with time against us we went with a new. The shop is less than a year old dad tends to fill it full of misc. equipment. He seems happiest when you can't walk form one side of the building to the other. The dog is sleeping in the house too many cats to count.
  11. Just finished a overhaul on my BIL's 2388 engine. Dropped a valve, wrecked the head, took the Piston and sleeve. He pulled out the retired 6620 to keep plugging along on the beans. Going to see what the weather is going to do for the rest of the week, don't want to stop to put the engine back in if the weather is going to crap this weekend. Did the overhaul in the shop dad had built last winter. Now if I can get him to keep it a shop not a machine shed! And a pic of a long overdue project, I hope to work on this winter.
  12. Leave the straight shovels on it if you want it to flow trash. We had one and when you pulled it shallow it would let trash through fair, if you pulled it deep as you want to go for fall tillage it was a plugging SOB with twisted shovels on it. We had much better luck with the straight.
  13. Landall made the Chisel and Disk Chisel plows for Case.
  14. The over pumping failure is often caused by plugged fuel filters. Basically the pump is not able to get enough fuel and is pumping too hard to reach its intended target rate of fuel.
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