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mrfred54

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Everything posted by mrfred54

  1. Have seen to many platforms with broken bolts or bolts that won't tighten down and the platform shifts around very little and can allow the brakes to begin applying and with linkage half frozen, like they all are, this is why I adjust pedals so they just stay off the platform. With the pedal against the platform and linkage loose the spool is still seated tight. If you have platform slight movement, is better to have pedal just off platform. Been adjusting them this way for 40 plus years with excellent results.
  2. Make sure valve spool is completely seated as pedal just touches platform. I like to adjust the link so pedal is about .005 from touching platform. As been mentioned, make sure the linkage is loose and no binding
  3. I think its an A with a left side rear axle. Not sure about the seat but it is not an A seat or BN. I have seen that type of seats on these tractors before, maybe from a C.
  4. Looks like the head land will be plowed by the time the field is done.๐Ÿ˜Š. My question is WHY would you want to do that to your tractor
  5. If you have seasonal disconnect you can disconnect the pto. Makes for easier starting in cold weather too.
  6. I'm jealous. That a great deal. Very nice looking tractor. Did you get the third link for the three point hitch. Looks like it was missing in the pic
  7. My dad had two 706's back in the day. One was gas (263) and the other was diesel (282) and they both had two 6 volt batteries. He bought the diesel new and the gas, he bought it was bout 10 years old, so I suppose the previous owner could have put the two 6volt setup on it
  8. Your tractor was originally, from factory two 6volt batteries hook in series. I think they were identified as 2E batteries. On gas models alot of guys just went with one 12 volt battery as the tractor got older. The 12 volt to fit your tractor would be a 3EE group. There is another battery about the same size, 3 EH but the 3EE is a little shorter which works for your tractor but is still real close to the fuel tank. You can also get rubber post covers for the battery that fit on the cables for protection. For holding down the battery some guys remove the angle iron from the cover to hold the battery down or you can get a piece of 1/4 x 1/2 inch angle iron and make it to fit.
  9. I use flower( baking ) and Portland cement, 2 cups flower 1 cup cement. No pets,so don't worry about that. Raccoons also like it.
  10. Ground wire for that solenoid was broke off. I thought I did reply what was wrong but I guess I didnt.
  11. I swapped out a few with the hyd. brake 1000 speed for dual speed spring brake. Had to get linkage from scrap yard as snoshoe posted. When we had customers order 14's and wanted dual speed pto, the tractor was ordered with pto delete. Then parts department would order the dual speed and then got installed
  12. My Bad. I probably should have explained it a little further in detail. The hose should be replaced and if it still doesn't start then he will have to dig deeper as suggested. Yes it did run before with this hose but I have seen a make shift hose come apart on the inside and plug the inlet elbow and it will NOT run.
  13. First thing I saw to. Throw that feed line away and get the right one from caseIH. Don't get a hose made at your local hydraulic shop either๐Ÿค”
  14. Just picked up on this post. Ya, that is quite the leak out the three point cover. HydroTek, and snoshoe got you covered pretty good. Just got done with a 1086 yesterday with pretty much same issue. This tractor would hiccup with a load on the three pt. and the hitch would settle down in about 5 minutes after engine shut down. The piston and cylinder were scored terribly. Got another assembly from bone yard. Resealed the whole thing. I didn't jack up the cab as was mentioned. Have done several without lifting cab. Customer said that several years ago when he bought the tractor it had lots of hydraulic issues. Found out that previous owner had removed the bypass screen for the filter. That lead to alot of problems as you can imagine
  15. Wow,wow,wow. That's insane
  16. What the best way to diagnose?? Customer called and said it just stopped. Has a 1020 header. I don't have any service manuals for combines. What kind of pressure should be at the motor and where can it be checked along with flow??
  17. Try this. Put transmission in high 4th. Hold brakes firmily, 3/4 throttle and release clutch slowly, if clutch is good it should stall engine. If not and you have released the clutch you need a clutch job. Don't do this very long though as flywheel and clutch will get hot in a hurry
  18. Nice tractor, I like it๐Ÿ˜€ always wondered why the 806 gas has that 100lbs valve cover???
  19. What are you wanting for horse power beings your asking about the turbo and pump? Are either of them giving trouble? AC issue, need to get gauges on the system. Cab filter probably does need changed, does the recirculation vent work?? Probably won't hurt to remove roof of cab and give it a good cleaning. Wash out condenser and radiator. Fan switch, low high purge?? Just a three speed fan. Don't know why they used that terminology for the 3rd speed, maybe some one else knows. The leak. That cover is the hitch pump and rear outlets. If the gasket is leaking you have to drain the oil to remove it. Just pulls straight out. There is also an pressure seal for the pump flow into the rear housing will need replaced when doing this. Also you will want to remove the filter and tin plate behind the filter and there is a jumper tube that goes into the pump from the filter housing that will need to be installed after the pump has been installed. If you don't do this there is a good possibility while installing the pump you will push the jumper tube( suction) from its location and then the pump will not prime and suck air. Good luck
  20. Thinking, might need new mcv๐Ÿค”๐Ÿค”๐Ÿค”๐Ÿ˜‚
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