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About 495man

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    Advanced Member

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    Nova Scotia, Canada
  • Interests
    IH Farm Equipment

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  1. Have a 2011 with 100k + miles. Bought used, I replaced spark plugs after buying. I noticed PO drilled weep hole in intercooler and it's had the "shield" installed on it. Not sure of service history, no timing belt rattle so might have been done or not. Did have a coil pack die (easy fix) and fixed degas bottle leak, had a waste gate seized but PB blaster fixed it! Just did the 6-speed auto trans recall. I almost didn't buy based on all the horror stories online. I don't put a lot of miles a year on it either, about 40% of the miles towing a trailer. I'd buy it again. What sold me was the diesel RPM torque and effortless power. I went from a 6-speed 7.3 diesel and the 3.5 eco plain out hauls ass compared to the 7.3. Miss the stick but the auto trans works good in these. (You can have Eco and Boost but not both at the same time) Mine is MaxTow with 3.73s, I can pass everything but a gas station pulling cattle trailer or travel trailer. I've never had the gas pedal to the floor yet towing and that includes passing uphill @ 80 MPH. Your fuel mileage drops heavy if you are on the skinny pedal. Tooling around empty at 50 MPH on cruise and you get pretty decent mileage.
  2. 11 crew cab (4 full doors) Not sure if yours is different. Drivers side, tip up the seat against the back wall, there is a "hump" with a plastic tray, pull the try out. Look under the tray and see a thumb bolt. Unscrew the bolt and pull out a black case.
  3. On the 2011 crew cab 150s the jack and wrench are under the rear seat floor, you have to remove a panel and unscrew a bolt then pull a tool box with the tire stuff out of it. I had to read the book to find it!
  4. Glad you are ok. They don't make trucks like that anymore....was it a 5.9 Cummins stick ?
  5. I remember seeing new 3088s on the IH lot locally most were cabs in this region.
  6. 495man

    Craziest Shifters

    Belarus with stick you twist the knob with pointer to change gates, stick only moves forward and backwards, twist full left, shove it forward or backwards to select range, pull stick to neutral, twist back over to gears H 7th/4th 9th R1/R2 |------------|---------------|---------------| L 8th/5th 6th/3rd 2nd/1st
  7. Same here...while that size of tractor will pull a 3 furrow, it's not happy most of the time.
  8. Wheel spacing and/or plow cross shaft. Whether it's a one, two or three furrow your wheel spacing still needs to be right and will be the same for same width bottoms.
  9. Loader off. 2wd with pin on and pin off loader with no parking stands still comes off even if it is a 30 minute PITA process. Quick attach loader on 4wd/fwa that is off in 2 minutes is off no contest. Loader comes on and off multiple times as needed. Has euro coupler and too and very rarely does the loader stay on for any work not needing loader.
  10. Most reg cabs around here GM/Ram/Ford are 2wd 8 foot box work trucks, 4x4 short boxes or chassis cab dually.
  11. So no fuel out any injector line then? One at a time...oh and the fuel shut off knob on the dash is pushed in? :-) (don't laugh..old guy called dealer to fix his tractor cause it wouldn't go, mechanic got on, shoved the fuel shut off in, cranked it and it started) You have lots of fuel to the pump, I assume both filters are on tight and fuel tank valve open etc. I am not sure?
  12. Never had that happen, usually fill the new filters with fuel, screw them on, crank it up and never have to bleed. I am guessing you got air into the injector lines. Start at #1 injector and crack the fuel line, crank to you get fuel, then tighened, then go to next injector.
  13. I never saw the twist shuttle, the regular 18F/4R had painfully slow reverse, even 4th, stick forward to reverse, straight back to equally slow forward. You could dog leg shift to a faster forward gear though. The MFD seemed like a complete add on, took 40 acres to turn left and 20 acres to turn right :-) the 2wds were quite nimble in comparison. We had them stuck because the front axle wouldn't stay engaged, used to have to pull the lever "a notch above" the full lock setting.
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