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About Drott-150

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  1. Another tip if you're burning the stumps after removing the trees: I would push the tree over as shown in these pics, and then pick the whole tree up, raise it up high and then drop it on the ground. It would do a great job of shaking the dirt off the rootball, making it burn a lot better and faster. I also found that if you shook most of the dirt off this way, and then set the tree down so that the stump (still connected to the tree) would face the sun (in the summer months) - I'd let it dry out for a day or two in that position. Then come back and pick the tree up and drop it a few more times. Nearly ALL dirt would come off and the stump would burn like the blazes.
  2. One thing I forgot to mention is that on occasion I would cut a tree down as high up as I could with the saw. This left a tall stump with a fairly good size piece of the trunk remaining. You could use that as a lever that the loader could push on, which would really help get the stump uprooted when compared to one that had been flush cut. Another thing you should ask yourself - does this stump really need to be removed? A friend asked me to push over some big trees in his yard and dig out the stumps. But doing that not only would have been dangerous, it would have tore the **** out of his yard and left giant holes where the stumps were. Plus he would have had to pay someone to load and truck the big stumps away. Plus pay someone to truck in fill dirt to fill in the stump holes. Instead, we strategically cut the trees down, then scalped the stumps as close to the ground as possible with a saw. Then rented a stump grinder and ground the stumps down to below the grade of his yard. Regraded with sawdust and topsoil over where the stumps were, and in a short period of time you never knew it was there. A much better and cheaper solution than digging the damned things out.
  3. Pede - I don't know exactly what happened to the man in the excavator. I wasn't there and didn't know him. However, I do know another local excavator that knew him and he relayed the story to me. He was not pulling on the tree. He normally would dig around the stump root ball to weaken the tree, which often would require repositioning the machine to dig at various angles, especially for a big one with a strong root structure (as with the last tree he worked on). From what I heard, he took his eye off the tree just for a moment, as he looked rearward and was backing the excavator up in preparation for putting it into another position. Just at that moment, either the tree simply fell on its own, or a wind kicked up strong enough to send the tree his way. You can see the result in the picture. And like I said, he was no neophyte, from what I heard he was a capable operator with over 20 years of experience. A real tragedy and a real wake up call, especially now that excavators are often the tool of choice for downing trees (whereas track loaders used to be the select tool for that job). Another thing I was told, and I don't own nor have I ever run an excavator, was that the boom on hoes like that don't really have much "push power" and they have relatively little power in swing or rotation. So even if he had seen the tree starting to fall on him and attempted to react in some way, it's not clear the boom would have been strong enough to push the tree away or sweep it to the side as it fell. Apparently the hoe is designed to generate its full power in the retraction digging mode, which makes sense, I suppose. And the swing or rotation power is pretty limited due to the physics of the relatively small hydraulic motor driving the turntable the cab sits on. Anyway, impressive as they are, please be aware the excavator is no panacea of safety when it comes to downing big trees. I have a video of the tree above coming down, but unfortunately this message forum wont let me post it. All its branches and its top 1/3rd have already been removed. There is a steel cable connected to the underside of the loader leading to the top. The boom and bucket are up to help protect me in the event the cable snaps and whips back on me (which it never did). If you look closely at the picture posted earlier of this tree, you can see an obscure image of me "hugging" the tree climbing up it with a safety line draped down below.
  4. Here's another one. I couldn't take the risk of downing this tree by pushing it over, which truly was a giant (although it doesn't really look like it in these images - trust me it was BIG). It was just too big and dangerous, plus it was very close to a house. So I actually climbed way up close to the top, attached a steel cable. Climbed down about 20 feet, sawed a weakening cut into it about a 1/3rd down from the top. Then shimmied down, jumped on my loader (which was connected to the steel cable and placed safely away from the tree) and ripped the top off. After that I climbed back up, reset the cable close to the top of what was left, and then made another weakening cut about 12-15 feet from the bottom. I was really worried about cutting too far into the tree while I was hanging off of it, so I didn't dare cut too deep. I didn't want the upper part of the tree coming off while I was still swinging around up there. So that's why you see the tree resist considerably as I pull it down and then it splits down to the stump area before finally breaking off and coming down. But no matter, once down to that level, it was easily and safely manageable from there with the saw alone. I have a video of the tree coming down, if I get a chance to figure out the editing software, I'll try to post it later.
  5. Hello Mr Newman sir! Long time no see um! Glad to see you are doing well, although possibly "board" with the forum based on the picture you posted. You used to post the best pics of all kinds of cool stuff going on down there in lush, green Kiwiland. I posted a bunch of stuff too, although it was purged from this site some time ago. Kind of a hassle to repost, but in the spirit of things, maybe put a few of the old ones up since we're talking about tree downing, stumps n' such. First, I found the tragic pics of the excavator accident I was talking about... Fatal.... And a few others of my own misadventures... I don't really recommend this... ;-) And a few more... Shaking the dirt off the stump by dropping it with the 4-1. Burns much better that way... Grading slopes on the side of driveway... Dumping fill dirt into a pile. 4-1 is very useful... Digging a pit and hitting some hard clay... Stump management...another awesome use for the 4-1. Clearing brush again with the 4-1 as a big grabber... Company brochure with the DROTT MOUTH BUCKETS!
  6. Oh by the way, I'd be real careful downing trees with an excavator too, especially without a ROPS. I used to have a picture from a local newspaper I can't find right now of the cab of an excavator that was utterly crushed by a big oak that fell on it, killing the operator inside. The operator had dug around the root ball to weaken the tree and then was repositioning the excavator to continue digging on it at another angle. He was looking backward and not watching the tree as he moved the excavator. Apparently at that very moment, the wind picked up and forced the tree over right onto his cab - that was it for him. And he was an experienced operator that had been running machines like that for years. It only takes one mistake with these machines and it's easy to get comfortable and complacent with them over time.
  7. I've certainly done my share of stumps on my loader so here's my 2 cents:No doubt whatsoever removing stumps, especially for big trees, is way easier on the machine and operator by pushing the whole tree over at once and using its own weight for the stump uprooting process. On big oaks, digging out a root ball from a tree that's already been cut down can be a very time consuming and laborious process. It can also be hard on the whole machine, especially as it strains to pry and push the stump out. I'm sure more than one operator has trashed his loader's finals doing this very job. HOWEVER - obviously pushing the tree over comes with potential risks that absolutely should not be underestimated. I see you have a proper ROPS and that's good. I pushed my share of trees over with a "convertible" (as shown in my avatar). Every time I did it, I did it with great caution and fear. Some trees I passed on because they were just too dangerous. I would cut them down first and then dig the stump out the hard way (or simply leave it if it wasn't really in the way). Fortunately it worked out for me, but looking back on it I would never do that again. Too many variables and potentially lethal unknowns (including a hollow eaten out trunk, dead branches (i.e. widomakers) with leaves that look alive etc). And actually, even with a ROPS without screens, you're still in potential danger from falling debris. A branch or tree top could come off, fall onto the loader and explode in front of you sending wood shrapnel into the operator compartment. I've actually had spring loaded stuff on the ground jump out from the jaws of my 4-1 and come right at my face at high speed...and even with a ROPS with no metal mesh screens it would NOT have protected me. Another thing to watch out for if you're pushing over really big trees - as the tree starts to go and the root ball starts to unearth, get away from the stump as fast as possible. There was a time I didn’t back off as fast as I should and as the root ball upturned, it raised the whole front of my loader up with it so that my loader was "pulling a wheelie" after the tree went over. It didn't go far enough to flip the loader over, but it was an unnecessary risk to keep pushing on the tree when I should have pulled away from it sooner. But, not saying you shouldn't do it. Every tree is different. It can be done safely with proper techniques. I would get some removable screens and put those on. And just use common sense, good luck.
  8. International 250 Loader

    What others have said is what I've also heard about the hydrospring. I have one on my Drott 150 loader. I have used it and also operated my machine with it off. It does provide cushioning to the loader frame when you are carrying a full load in the bucket and presumably will help prevent cracks or stress damage to the loader frame over time. Although all the other cat vendors never bothered with it and they never had any problems with frame cracking. And I don’t recall seeing an old Drott loader with a cracked loader frame either. So, never saw that much of a diff with or without, really. In fact, it's intended to be turned off when you are grading, which you can especially do with the 4-1 bucket you have (although without left/right tilt). The hydrospring can allow the boom to move too much during grading, leaving it off gives you more precisely controlled movement. Not that it made any difference for a hack like me. The only way I could grade is by backdragging and using the float function. So I would say just turn it off and go easy with shuttling big loads of dirt or jerking the boom up and down rapidly while the bucket is fully loaded. Or if you're so inclined, have it rebuilt. I think they have big leather seals in it. Someone should have them available or be able to make one for you. I have copies of the manuals with parts breakdown somewhere. If you need images let me know and I'll try to post them. As far as the cooling system, if the coolant is really rusty and someone has left water or very dilute A/F in there for decades, you may have to have your radiator rodded and/or rebuilt. And if water with little or no antifreeze has been in there and you live in a cold clime, that also poses obvious questions for block/head freezing. I'd sort that out. Also, if you've flushed it many times and it's still overheating, make sure the fan is spinning (obviously) and in the right direction and the blades aren't all mangled up. And does it have a shroud? Make sure it's in place, that can make a difference. And above all, check the fins/cooling passages in the radiator itself. They get plugged up with dirt and oil over time. Thoroughly clean out all the passages with a power washer and engine degreaser as necessary so that you can see light through the whole radiator.
  9. early model t-340 Drott rebuild & pics

    Looks fantastic, great job! Nice to see some old IH iron get professionally resurrected.
  10. That's a Big Ass Dozer (BAD) and some mighty fine footage of it doin' its thing. Welcome aboard to the forum! If you're already an experienced operator, forgive my advice: but if you're building a path across a swampy area, for god's sake, be careful with that monster near soft/marshy earth. As a neophyte operator 10+ years ago shortly after getting my 150 loader (which weighs a mere 21K lbs), I crossed a dried creek bed in a valley on a dry day. Got across it fine the first time, but in the process I disturbed the settled earth and virgin root matte/bed there. The next time I traversed that same area, the machine sank into moist underlying soils. I got it stuck good. A real stressful/sweaty/dirty experience getting it back out, which for some amazing reason I was able to do without calling in a machine of your size to get it out. Then not long afterwards, I DID IT AGAIN, except it was only one side that sunk into a gulch with moist soil. And again, by the hair of my chinny chin chin I managed to extricate the machine using medieval manual methods (involving mostly logs, chains and loader machinations). I thought for sure I'd need a BAD like yours to get it out of that ditch. Anyway, when a BAD get's stuck, I'm not sure what can get it out other than TWO BADS, And you don't want to have to pay for that. GOOD LUCK and welcome aboard!

    I'm not Mr Powershift expert guy, but I'll kick in my $0.02. I have the 165's older predecessor the 150, which as far as I know is quite similar. It has a simple powershifter system with FWD and REV (located to the left of the operator) and a High/Low gearbox selector (located between the operator's legs) and dry steering clutches. It has a single clutch pack that engages one way for reverse and the other for forward. It sounds like you may not have the mechanical gear shifter High/Low system I have based on your description though (??). Based on what you say, it sounds like it may have a separate clutch pack for high and low (?). On my machine, if it pulls properly either in reverse or forward in low, it will pull in high (more weakly of course). If the clutch pack is clamping down sufficiently and the torque converter is coupling right, it will work in high and low because it's a simple hand shifted gear system. So when you say it's very weak or won't move in high, but in low it can: spin the tracks, pull your 15K lb truck out of the mud and rip a 12" tree out of the ground? Then to me that suggests you have: (1) A fully functional torque converter (2) A properly clamping (and sealed) low clutch pack (3) Non-slipping steering clutches that are properly engaging and transmitting power to the tracks (4) Your transmission oil pump is generating sufficient pressure and regulating it sufficiently for properly clamping a clutch pack and for torque converter functions. (5) Your transmission filters are not clogged. Since all of these things appear to be true: Maybe/probably you have a slipping high clutch pack?? Does it have a dash gage indicating trans pressure? It should. I would get that working if it's non-functional. And it shouldn't be difficult to replace or get to, unlike the test ports. On my machine, from memory, clutch pack pressure should be around 180-220 psig. If you see it within limits in the low position, but then drops unacceptably in the high position, that would imply a bad seal in the high clutch pack. If it remains in the good range in high, then it might mean the clutch material in the high clutch pack is shot. Do you know why the machine was disabled and left in the field for so long before? Although, I could see if only the high system was not working some other cause may have been why it was abandoned (ventilated 300 engine etc).
  12. IH Drott 150 low power

    I have a 150 loader. It's based on the TD9B tractor, so it is a B series with the 282 diesel. As already noted, the operating speed should be around 2300rpm and the manual gear shift lever should be in the low position (i.e. pulled back). Make sure your steering clutches are adjusted properly and aren't slipping. You say the trans pressure is 200-300 psig? The trans pressure gage shown on the dash from memory should read between 180-220 psig or something like that. The transmission has a three way pressure regulator. It provides lower pressure oil for lubrication purposes, medium pressure for the torque converter and high pressure (i.e. the 190-220 psig shown on the dash gage) that's used to lock up the FWD and REV clutch pack (the thing the powershifter to the left of the operator actuates). The pressures can be adjusted by adding or removing little disc (washers) which changes the preload on an internal spring. Another thing is make sure it has the proper viscosity oil. I've always run 30W Rotella in mine and it's always worked great. As far as spinning the tracks, the tracks on a good running 150 won't always spin under power and I don't believe all loaders will. It depends on the situation. If I were to pry under a big Oak stump with my loader on a dry day with firm soil underneath and use full power, the loader prying force applies thousands of pounds of added pressure to the tracks, greatly enhancing traction. Under those circumstances the engine will fully load, it will blow black smoke and the machine will strain, but it might not slip the tracks. This is normal and really it's how a torque converter machine is supposed to work. On the other hand, if the ground is wet or has gravel etc, then you can pretty easily slip the tracks. Like I said it depends. But if the tracks are not slipping and you're up at full power, you should feel the machine grunting, billowing black smoke and bearing down on whatever it is you're pushing against. Just remember it's an old machine and it isn't going to have that "direct-drive" feeling a modern hydrostat machine will have. It's a half-century old and has a torque converter like a car does; it delivers power in a similar manner. PS>> Forgot to add, a good test to see if she's pushing good is to fully load the bucket and try going up a pretty steep hill. Keep the load low and be careful to not turn sideways, as she doesn't have a ROPS. Never found a hill that I needed to conquer that I couldn't with my 150.