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CL-Judge-TD9

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Posts posted by CL-Judge-TD9

  1. Hi, been out fro a while and just getting back to work on the TD-9... I would appreciate the CAD file... 

    The latest is that I finally got it to work on diesel on cyl 1 & 2 but the remaining two do not have pressure... I thought it might be the distribution block is jammed or plugged somehow... 

    Just can't get the tools to tear it apart... Now I need to find somebody that can fabricate the tool... I appreciate your help and the CAD drawing...

    I have noticed that the primary pump pumps out a lot of bubbles... is it supposed to do that? It goes into the filter where the bubbles are removed before going into the plunger... 

    standingfree@protonmail.com

    Gary, thanks

    • Like 1
  2. The issue that I am having is that I am having only cyl's 1 and 2 (from the front) fire... did have the head rebuilt... checking the fuel bleed valves, shows that I am not getting the pressure tot he injectors, I have checked the opening valve clearance and that appear to be OK. so that would suggest that the system is holding pressure for 1&2 but then is losing pressure for 3&4... any thoughts?

    when I set up my Injector pump to operate on my bench, I notice that there is a lot of air bubbles coming out of the primary pump on the back of the Injector Pump assembly... that seems a bit odd. I don[t know if that is an issue... My guess is that it shouldn't be having bubbles from the primary pump Now if I remember correctly,  the fuel flow goes from the primary pump into a filter where it then goes into the secondary pump so that would suggest that the air would then get separated... I did put in new gaskets 

    I have put in new gaskets, and it is still leaking fuel into the lower section of the pump (different issue I think) ... What seal is causing this?

    Have already spent $500.00 on this thing... 

  3. Well, ended up getting a head job on it and that fixed most of the issues... in fact, it now runs on cyl 3 & 4 when I switch it over.... the currently problem is that there isn't enough fuel being pumped to cyl 1 & 2... Since the other two are working fine, I would think that the problem is in the distribution block or the lower section of the pump where the push rods are (the push rods are not pushing the valves open enough for a proper supply of fuel to get through). The second issue can be checked with a gage, the first issue I have no clue as to how to take the D Bolck apart because of the special spline tool that is needed.

  4. On ‎11‎/‎22‎/‎2019 at 7:41 PM, captain_crunch said:

    So was MB Cat guess it’s up to us now 

    Thanks, I was about to find a hard copy online for $21.00 in Calif. Binder.com I think was their name. I will check that out, but in the mean time, I still think it is a blocked or plugged distribution block, except I can't get it apart thanks to that darn spline tool needed to remove the tips from the block ... that cannot be found. Does anybody have the spec's so that it can be computer cut out of steel?

  5. Hi everybody, been down for a while and am just getting back... TD9 1949 Rebuilt head... rebuilt primary in the fuel injection pump, didn't touch the lower section.

    She started up on gas fine, but when I switched over to diesel it only worked on 2 cyl's.

    Troubleshooting: made sure everything was properly bled, then checked the output of each diesel line to the injector (using the bleeder valve), found that injector 1 and 2 was barely putting out and cyl 3 & 4 worked like a charm. This suggests that the primary pump is working fine.

    Prognosis: The primary fuel pump is working fine... it appears that the Issue might be the distribution block (the TD9 sat for about 15 years before I got it and it wasn't working with it was parked... (probably because of a head issue that I corrected with a rebuild). The pump appears to  be working fine up to the D block, and the block is working fine for 2 cylinders, so that indicates to me that the two valves on the D block that are not working are caked or full of gunk? Question: Is it possible that the runners pushing the rods up to the valves in the D block cold be bad or worn so that the valves are not opening up as they should? How would this be checked or verified? But that seems unlikely to me, one bad I could believe but two side by side? Well I guess you never know... that is why I need to figure out how to measure how far the first two push rods come out as opposed to the working two... Some kind of expensive gage I suppose.

    The other issue that I have is that if it is the D block, I can't find the spline tool to take the D block apart and put it back together in order to clean it up... any suggestions on that?

    Thanks to all that have helped me in the past...

    Gary

  6. 8 hours ago, Faston4 said:

    Hello, in order to find the pump I called all of the yards i could think of, then i went on CL and called people that had a lot of Farmall equipment in thier ad, thats where i found the pump and head (cracked). Most of the guys had good suggestions and yards that'll i had never heard of.

     

    Im elbow deep into the steering clutches and relining the brakes now, just waiting for spring.

     

    Scott

    Scott, I imagine that the steering clutch will be the next item that I have to work on... I can only make right hand turns... Once I get the thing working on diesel, I can at least cut some roads that I need. I have 5 acres on the side of a hill, retired, limited income... so I have to be very frugal... the TD9 was given to me when a neighbor passed... it had been sitting for about 15 years. It has been fun overall but very frustrating as well... LOL

  7. On ‎9‎/‎12‎/‎2018 at 7:39 AM, mmi said:

    it is not about questions  it is that it has been discussed many different ways and circumstances with many photos .  although a search is difficult  it is in many cases weeks faster than waiting for OP to see your request ,locate info and repost

    there is centuries of information here but because of greed of the net (monetizing others "work" for your gain (googles failing model))  it is very difficult to find.     cost and copy right of coding so a RPMF search would actually work and not tell you to wait 35 sec for another useless malfunction  (not the fault of Bj or RPM)

    I have been searching for days trying to find some way to remove the distribution pipes from the distribution block without having the specialized tool that nobody has.... it is a exercise in futility with this search function on RPMF but hey, I am thankful that the information is here somewhere... <grin>

  8. I AM STILL STRUGGLING WITH THIS... UGH! Ok, I ended up getting the head rebuilt, after that I was able to get the crawler working on gas and it even started up on diesel... the bad part is that it only worked on 2 cyl's...

    Okay, here I am right now on the progress of getting this thing working. I ended up pulling the head and having it rebuilt, I had to replace several of the valves and once this was completed and the head was put back on the engine, not only was able to get it operational in gas mode, I was able to get it started switched over to diesel. So here's where the next problem comes in; it only worked on two cylinders on the diesel side. So with more troubleshooting I came to the conclusion that cylinders one and two were not getting enough fuel pressure as exhibited in cylinders three and four. In reviewing these symptoms, the only thing that could cause this issue would be the distributor valve block. It is my understanding that when you take the block off there is a channel underneath it that appears to be a fuel drain off for leakage from the block that I think goes back to the scavenger valve and then it is pushed back into the fuel supply. Please correct me if I'm wrong on that.

    Another side issue that I am saying is that there is a lot of fuel being deposited into the fuel pump oil reserve which is indicating that either the distributor valve It's that rest on the camshaft has worn seals, or the distributor valve seals are worn, especially in cylinders one and two, that is allowing for the pressure to be released past the seals down into the oil reserve section.

    So the next part or issue that I have is that I am going to have to take the distributor block apart which means I'm going to have to figure out how to take the discharge fittings off the block in order to get into the valves, at least I think. I do have a book on the injector pump which is supposed to be an OEM, but it's not giving me a lot of detail other than the fact that I need a highly specialized attachment which is of course not available. So I have two options at this point, the first option is to see if anybody here has some sort of trick or way of getting discharge fittings off the block, the second option is to find somebody or some company that can rebuild it for a reasonable charge... Being that I am retired I do not have a substantial income.

    Any thoughts and comments would be more than appreciated, thank you very much.

    Gary

    IH injector pump 1.jpg

    IH injector pump 2.jpg

    IH injector pump 3.jpg

    IH injector pump 4.jpg

  9. On ‎10‎/‎28‎/‎2017 at 6:51 PM, north of 60 said:

    If you think the starting valve on #1 cylinder is not closing, you can check to see if it is stuck by removing the valve cover. There is a cup type piece above each starting valve that gets pushed down onto the starting valve to open it when you are in gas mode.

    When in diesel mode, the cups  should be free from any pressure, and a spring under the cup pushes the starting starting valve up to close it.. 

    These cups, or moving parts under them, can be stuck, and even though there is nothing pushing  or holding them down, they don't  Mive back up under the spring pressure, and your starting valve stays open when it should be closed .. 

    With the valve cover off, and the engine in diesel mode, you should be able to put some gentle pressure on the cup with a pry bar or large screw driver. It should move down, if it does the starting valve is closed and is opening properly. If there is no movement under some applied pressure, it is likely stuck. You can also do a visual check of the cups to see if they are all sitting at the same height. If one is lower than the others in diesel mode it is likely stuck open. 

    If it is stuck, you can likely get it to release with some good penetrating fluid or ATF/acetone mix, and some gentle tapping on the cup. I would suggest a wood dowel as a punch if you need to get more aggressive .. 

    Good luck .. 

    Great idea, thanks... will try it Wed and see what happens

  10. On ‎10‎/‎26‎/‎2017 at 10:22 PM, td9inidaho said:

    When I rebuilt my td9. I thought I had timing issues as it would not fire/start, pulled the front off, turned crank to align marks, seemed they wouldn't line up ever turn, or second turn, or third, but was definitely timed right, manual specifies the marks and teeth between for different models, let me know if you need pics or more info. Through me for a loop for quite awhile

    Did you ever figure it out? I believe that because of the tooth ratio, it will take 4 full turns of the crank for the alignment marks to come back up into alignment.

     

    I tested the compression of the cylinders through the spark plug holes with the gas/diesel lever open and closed. In theory my readings should have been pressure on the diesel on... Gas off... and no pressure Diesel off/gas on setting.... this proved correct for all cyl's except #1 in which there is no change. So it appears that the valve for #1 cyl is not closing when switched to diesel which then does not provide the high compression needed to fire the fuel. So that now looks like I will have to remove the head and fix it... Ugh!!!!

  11. I did get it bled, I am of the opinion that the issue is that the timing is off. Does anybody know how to set the Gears alignment that powers the pump? There are no matching marks to align the gears together, it could be up to 2 teeth off in either direction.

    Now, when I put the pump back on, the hub on the pump has an alignment mark that is supposed to line up with another mark on the drive gear. That mark was about 1/2 inch rotation off, so I had to rotate it clockwise about 1/2 inch then hold it there to get the bolts on. My thoughts on this is that was my first indication that the gear alignment was off.

    My thoughts: what if I remove the pump and rotate the pump drive gear so that when I install the pump the lines line up... ??? Having set the crank to DC (TDC) to get the gears in alignment with the piston stroke.

    Or does somebody have a better idea as to how I can get or verify the pump drive gear is properly aligned without removing the whole front of the bull-dozer? (see picture of it above, that is a lot of hardware to remove...).

    Opinions or thoughts?

  12. UPDATE:

    Checked the compression of the #1 Cyl, in gas mode it was over 100 psi, swapped the injector on 1 and 3 and that didn't make any difference. starts and runs on cyl's 3 and 4... but will not fire on 1 and 2... I have run out of ideas.

    could this be the pump timing is off?

  13. I ended sending the aux pump with the dist. block and primary pump section out to be looked at and tested. After it came back and was installed I was able to get it started up on diesel... the next problem is that there is no power at all.

    I did notice that I am getting some flame shooting out of the exhaust...

    When I installed the injector pump, I couldn't figure out how to make sure that the gears were in alignment properly... there was not any set marks on the gears to match up.  When I took it apart I tried to be not to disturb the alignment of the gears. So I set the crank (T)DC and then the hub indicator for the pump gear at "0" ...  It did belch out black smoke and started right up on diesel when I did the switch over. At this point I don'[t know if the pump timing should be advanced or retarded.

    I was also very careful to try to make sure that there was no air in any of the lines... After it was running for a while, I opened the bleeder valves on each injector to make sure it was air free. That was how I figured which cyl was firing or not. Cyl's 3 & 4 were firing but not 1 & 2... When I open the bleeder valve on 1 & 2 there is fuel that shoots out. The tech that worked on my fuel pump parts said that he set up the distribution box and it worked fine on his test bench. So I think this would eliminate the issue with the Fuel pump?

    I do have all of the books for this model now... but they aren't helping any in this case.

    Any thoughts would be appreciated... thank you, Gary

    ====================================================================

    I was very luck in that the hydraulic pump was leaking pressure and oil really bad... Hydreco brand... unfortunately it is so old that there were no parts anywhere. Thankfully I found a good company in Calif that was able to find me the parts I needed (the seal for the shaft cost $275.00 )... and bearings at $18.00 @. Anyway, that fixed the hydraulic leak problem... a new H pump would have run around $1500 plus.

  14. The books that I GOT WERE LISTED AS #1011492 WHICH IS THE OPERATING MANUAL, and PU-40D which is the parts breakdown of the Injector pump.

    I set up the test using diesel and connected a power drill to spin the pump. When the pump started to spin it drew up the fuel properly but then pushed aerated fuel with microbubbles into the primary pump section. You can see the bubbles in the line in the third picture. I pulled the scavenger valve out and cleaned it up as it was stuck, I didn't have a proper seal for it so I used an 'O' ring... do you think that might be the problem? I didn't completely dismantle the pump, but I did remove the side aux pump and clean it, the scavenger valve, and the primary pump on the top. With the aux pump on the side, I have tried several different gasket thicknesses where it goes intot he body of the IP with no change. Oh yes, it also pushes fuel out of the return back into the bucket... I assume that is coming from the scavenger valve. The last item is that the section of the IP where it is supposed to have oil is getting flooded with fuel as well...

    Any thoughts?

    I am about to give up and park it.

    100_2369.JPG

    100_2377.JPG

    100_2390.JPG

    100_2392.JPG

    100_2384.JPG

    100_2382.JPG

  15. ok, so the test didn't go so well... I was using hydraulic fluid instead of diesel and was getting a lot of air being put into the fluid before it got to the injectors.  So now I am going to use diesel to see if that was the issue. Went back into the primary pump and made sure that it was put back together correctly. Since I don't have a book I am not exactly sure as to what that is... but I did take pictures and lay out the parts when I removed it and took it apart. At least the fluid is no longer leaking into the main injuctor pump as it was doing previously. So I am making progress.

  16. On ‎7‎/‎15‎/‎2017 at 2:18 AM, russ said:

    what I did was to use the dimension's of the seal like .250"shaft size x .625" outside diameter x .315" thickness and google it or go to some place like Motion Industries, or Applied Industrial technology's or some other bearing house and they can cross reference that to a good seal number and freezer bags and sandwich bags make good gasket material for the thin gaskets others are made from gasket material from the auto parts store russ

    Thank you, what I did was to get gasket material from the auto store and made the gaskets. I am now trying to figure out how to set the timing when I put it back on the dozer. I need to find a good breakdown book or repair manual...

    I have set up a test bench to test the pump and verify that it is working properly then back into the dozer it goes...

  17. Yes, thank you.... I did find the posts you are talking about but there is no mention on how to get the scavenger valve out.... do you grab the threads with pliers and give it a hard pull? Not to keen on that because it would or might ruin the threads. Do I make some sort of tool to thread onto the top part and pull it out? Also, I have not found anything so far in my searches on what is causing the fuel to get into the pump oil. Will keep looking though.

    Thank you

  18. Can't say how much I appreciate the knowledge located on this board... thank you all for sharing.

    I have a TD-9 that has been sitting for a very long time (something like 10+ years). It was given to me by my neighbor that wanted to scrap it, but I couldn't let that happen and besides, I can use it on my 5 acres in southern Oregon. Anyway, I did get it started on gas and had fun driving it around a bit... (yes, cheap thrills for a new guy...). It would not switch over no matter what I DID. There was fuel coming out of the bleeders from the injectors but what I noticed was that although it squirted, it was not very strong. Short story, I figured it was the fuel pump, so I took it off... Damn is that thing heavy!!!

    So thanks to previous posts I have been able to dig into it cautiously and sure enough the rack was jammed and there was a lot of gum in it. One thing is that I found fuel in the oil section of the pump and I really don't know what causes it... any comments or ideas on that?

    I did find a partial rebuild gasket kit but they wanted $270.00 which I don't have... so I am building/cutting my own gaskets.

    Thanks all...

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