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About CL-Judge-TD9

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    Murphy Oregon
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    Cub Tractor

    TD-9 with Blade and cable pull on the back

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  1. Well, ended up getting a head job on it and that fixed most of the issues... in fact, it now runs on cyl 3 & 4 when I switch it over.... the currently problem is that there isn't enough fuel being pumped to cyl 1 & 2... Since the other two are working fine, I would think that the problem is in the distribution block or the lower section of the pump where the push rods are (the push rods are not pushing the valves open enough for a proper supply of fuel to get through). The second issue can be checked with a gage, the first issue I have no clue as to how to take the D Bolck apart because of the special spline tool that is needed.
  2. Thanks, I was about to find a hard copy online for $21.00 in Calif. Binder.com I think was their name. I will check that out, but in the mean time, I still think it is a blocked or plugged distribution block, except I can't get it apart thanks to that darn spline tool needed to remove the tips from the block ... that cannot be found. Does anybody have the spec's so that it can be computer cut out of steel?
  3. Hi everybody, been down for a while and am just getting back... TD9 1949 Rebuilt head... rebuilt primary in the fuel injection pump, didn't touch the lower section. She started up on gas fine, but when I switched over to diesel it only worked on 2 cyl's. Troubleshooting: made sure everything was properly bled, then checked the output of each diesel line to the injector (using the bleeder valve), found that injector 1 and 2 was barely putting out and cyl 3 & 4 worked like a charm. This suggests that the primary pump is working fine. Prognosis: The primary fuel pump is working fine... it appears that the Issue might be the distribution block (the TD9 sat for about 15 years before I got it and it wasn't working with it was parked... (probably because of a head issue that I corrected with a rebuild). The pump appears to be working fine up to the D block, and the block is working fine for 2 cylinders, so that indicates to me that the two valves on the D block that are not working are caked or full of gunk? Question: Is it possible that the runners pushing the rods up to the valves in the D block cold be bad or worn so that the valves are not opening up as they should? How would this be checked or verified? But that seems unlikely to me, one bad I could believe but two side by side? Well I guess you never know... that is why I need to figure out how to measure how far the first two push rods come out as opposed to the working two... Some kind of expensive gage I suppose. The other issue that I have is that if it is the D block, I can't find the spline tool to take the D block apart and put it back together in order to clean it up... any suggestions on that? Thanks to all that have helped me in the past... Gary
  4. Scott, I imagine that the steering clutch will be the next item that I have to work on... I can only make right hand turns... Once I get the thing working on diesel, I can at least cut some roads that I need. I have 5 acres on the side of a hill, retired, limited income... so I have to be very frugal... the TD9 was given to me when a neighbor passed... it had been sitting for about 15 years. It has been fun overall but very frustrating as well... LOL
  5. I have been searching for days trying to find some way to remove the distribution pipes from the distribution block without having the specialized tool that nobody has.... it is a exercise in futility with this search function on RPMF but hey, I am thankful that the information is here somewhere... <grin>
  6. How did you search and find the MD injector pump?
  7. I AM STILL STRUGGLING WITH THIS... UGH! Ok, I ended up getting the head rebuilt, after that I was able to get the crawler working on gas and it even started up on diesel... the bad part is that it only worked on 2 cyl's... Okay, here I am right now on the progress of getting this thing working. I ended up pulling the head and having it rebuilt, I had to replace several of the valves and once this was completed and the head was put back on the engine, not only was able to get it operational in gas mode, I was able to get it started switched over to diesel. So here's where the next problem comes in; it only worked on two cylinders on the diesel side. So with more troubleshooting I came to the conclusion that cylinders one and two were not getting enough fuel pressure as exhibited in cylinders three and four. In reviewing these symptoms, the only thing that could cause this issue would be the distributor valve block. It is my understanding that when you take the block off there is a channel underneath it that appears to be a fuel drain off for leakage from the block that I think goes back to the scavenger valve and then it is pushed back into the fuel supply. Please correct me if I'm wrong on that. Another side issue that I am saying is that there is a lot of fuel being deposited into the fuel pump oil reserve which is indicating that either the distributor valve It's that rest on the camshaft has worn seals, or the distributor valve seals are worn, especially in cylinders one and two, that is allowing for the pressure to be released past the seals down into the oil reserve section. So the next part or issue that I have is that I am going to have to take the distributor block apart which means I'm going to have to figure out how to take the discharge fittings off the block in order to get into the valves, at least I think. I do have a book on the injector pump which is supposed to be an OEM, but it's not giving me a lot of detail other than the fact that I need a highly specialized attachment which is of course not available. So I have two options at this point, the first option is to see if anybody here has some sort of trick or way of getting discharge fittings off the block, the second option is to find somebody or some company that can rebuild it for a reasonable charge... Being that I am retired I do not have a substantial income. Any thoughts and comments would be more than appreciated, thank you very much. Gary
  8. Great idea, thanks... will try it Wed and see what happens
  9. That would be great news if somebody would pitch in on the subject... I think I will start a new thread specifically for troubleshooting the issues...
  10. Did you ever figure it out? I believe that because of the tooth ratio, it will take 4 full turns of the crank for the alignment marks to come back up into alignment. I tested the compression of the cylinders through the spark plug holes with the gas/diesel lever open and closed. In theory my readings should have been pressure on the diesel on... Gas off... and no pressure Diesel off/gas on setting.... this proved correct for all cyl's except #1 in which there is no change. So it appears that the valve for #1 cyl is not closing when switched to diesel which then does not provide the high compression needed to fire the fuel. So that now looks like I will have to remove the head and fix it... Ugh!!!!
  11. Would you happen to have a picture of the whole Injector pump gear as it looks when it is aligned? Thank you
  12. I did get it bled, I am of the opinion that the issue is that the timing is off. Does anybody know how to set the Gears alignment that powers the pump? There are no matching marks to align the gears together, it could be up to 2 teeth off in either direction. Now, when I put the pump back on, the hub on the pump has an alignment mark that is supposed to line up with another mark on the drive gear. That mark was about 1/2 inch rotation off, so I had to rotate it clockwise about 1/2 inch then hold it there to get the bolts on. My thoughts on this is that was my first indication that the gear alignment was off. My thoughts: what if I remove the pump and rotate the pump drive gear so that when I install the pump the lines line up... ??? Having set the crank to DC (TDC) to get the gears in alignment with the piston stroke. Or does somebody have a better idea as to how I can get or verify the pump drive gear is properly aligned without removing the whole front of the bull-dozer? (see picture of it above, that is a lot of hardware to remove...). Opinions or thoughts?
  13. UPDATE: Checked the compression of the #1 Cyl, in gas mode it was over 100 psi, swapped the injector on 1 and 3 and that didn't make any difference. starts and runs on cyl's 3 and 4... but will not fire on 1 and 2... I have run out of ideas. could this be the pump timing is off?
  14. I ended sending the aux pump with the dist. block and primary pump section out to be looked at and tested. After it came back and was installed I was able to get it started up on diesel... the next problem is that there is no power at all. I did notice that I am getting some flame shooting out of the exhaust... When I installed the injector pump, I couldn't figure out how to make sure that the gears were in alignment properly... there was not any set marks on the gears to match up. When I took it apart I tried to be not to disturb the alignment of the gears. So I set the crank (T)DC and then the hub indicator for the pump gear at "0" ... It did belch out black smoke and started right up on diesel when I did the switch over. At this point I don'[t know if the pump timing should be advanced or retarded. I was also very careful to try to make sure that there was no air in any of the lines... After it was running for a while, I opened the bleeder valves on each injector to make sure it was air free. That was how I figured which cyl was firing or not. Cyl's 3 & 4 were firing but not 1 & 2... When I open the bleeder valve on 1 & 2 there is fuel that shoots out. The tech that worked on my fuel pump parts said that he set up the distribution box and it worked fine on his test bench. So I think this would eliminate the issue with the Fuel pump? I do have all of the books for this model now... but they aren't helping any in this case. Any thoughts would be appreciated... thank you, Gary ==================================================================== I was very luck in that the hydraulic pump was leaking pressure and oil really bad... Hydreco brand... unfortunately it is so old that there were no parts anywhere. Thankfully I found a good company in Calif that was able to find me the parts I needed (the seal for the shaft cost $275.00 )... and bearings at $18.00 @. Anyway, that fixed the hydraulic leak problem... a new H pump would have run around $1500 plus.
  15. The books that I GOT WERE LISTED AS #1011492 WHICH IS THE OPERATING MANUAL, and PU-40D which is the parts breakdown of the Injector pump. I set up the test using diesel and connected a power drill to spin the pump. When the pump started to spin it drew up the fuel properly but then pushed aerated fuel with microbubbles into the primary pump section. You can see the bubbles in the line in the third picture. I pulled the scavenger valve out and cleaned it up as it was stuck, I didn't have a proper seal for it so I used an 'O' ring... do you think that might be the problem? I didn't completely dismantle the pump, but I did remove the side aux pump and clean it, the scavenger valve, and the primary pump on the top. With the aux pump on the side, I have tried several different gasket thicknesses where it goes intot he body of the IP with no change. Oh yes, it also pushes fuel out of the return back into the bucket... I assume that is coming from the scavenger valve. The last item is that the section of the IP where it is supposed to have oil is getting flooded with fuel as well... Any thoughts? I am about to give up and park it.
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