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zbo2

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About zbo2

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    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 02/22/1955

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    zbo2
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  • Location
    southern new jersey

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  1. OK... you have to remove the reverser control valve and charge pump manifold to get the charge pump out. Both tubes need to come out as well.
  2. I have to try to remember how it comes off. I don't remember it being complicated. Have to find my manuals. I guess when the flex plate went south the converter wobbled and bent the nose. The charge pump has been tough finding. You can also try Steve at https://www.sadygerts.com/.... awesome guy to deal with.
  3. You can check the 2 pressure ports on top of the reverser and see what they have for pressure. I think lube pressure is in the area of 12 psi in neutral and 75ish when forward or reverse is selected... going from memory which is never good.... I think the front port is the forward clutch pack and the rear one is the reverse pack.... of course I could have that backwards. I have the manuals if you need me to check. I have rebuilt my reverser so I can offer some suggestions if you need them. I would do a little more checking before I resorted to splitting the machine. Pull the converter inspection cover and make sure the converter is spinning... pull the suction screen and make sure its not all plugged up. Make sure nobody stole all the fluid...lol
  4. mmi...…… u kinda lost me with the headlight repair link...lol Buckeye...….. 11,000 to 12,000lbs I think. Is it a steering clutch that's stuck? A lot of the 500E's were torque converter drive, but there were some with a clutch drive. Knowing which it is will kinda determine the cost of repair. Getting harder and harder to find parts for this model...…… I do believe though that both the clutch parts are still readily available.
  5. The bearing does have an interference fit onto the sleeve.
  6. you could easily make item # 29 ......85 bucks is ridiculous. You can see the 2 holes to bolt that to in the picture. Steve Dygert is a great guy to deal with. I bought all my stuff from him.
  7. I use bins about 14 X 18 to put the bigger parts in and mark the bins for what they are and what side they came off of. Then the nuts and bolts go in zip lock bags marked with a permanent marker for where they came from. I then put them in the bins where they go. Works for me..... cause I can't remember that stuff a week later let alone 2 years later. Joe
  8. yup... that's the best part... gettin her back together. Looks sweet
  9. see.... u guys upset him with the dirty garage comments.... now we just get outside pic's........lol Looks awesome... getting ready to paint mine.
  10. I have used Bulldog and I believe it's for using over paint... it softens the old paint and helps the new paint to bond to it..... great for use in door jambs where you can't get to all the tight spots to sand properly. I am in the process of rebuilding my IH 500E dozer. I went with Sherwin Williams Dimension 5.0 urethane enamel and also used a "wet on wet" epoxy primer. You put a good coat of primer on and let it dry for 1 hour then shoot the top color..... it worked great. I paid 500.00 for 1 gallon of urethane with the reducer and harder mixed 4-2-1 so that gives you 1 3/4 gals of reduced color and the gallon of Montana Big Sky primer mixed 1-1 with the reducer/hardner. I would have liked to have found something less expensive since I know painting everything all apart uses way more paint and I will have to reload again. While this isn't a show piece I am putting a ton of time into it and it will be outside so I don't want it to look like crap a couple years down the road. In the big scheme of things the extra 500 or so, while it hurts when you lay it out, is a wise investment.
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