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hoodeleydoo

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Everything posted by hoodeleydoo

  1. Hi Pete, my recommendation is to investigate using a later serial number C-135 the parts are much easier to come by. the blocks are different between earlier and later. get the entire parts books from Binder books and it is readily apparent the differences. you'll save much headache in the long run. parts are not interchangeable between the two C-135 engine series but i do believe they rotate in same direction and bolt up to housings, input shafts, clutches, etc. however i have not done this personally yet so I cannot verify entirely.
  2. Hi. I have some parts but most are needed or spoken for. Send me a PM and we can discuss. As far as t-340 parts -as far as engine parts - my suggestion would be to investigate going with the later serial number engine series. I beleive they rotate in the same direction and bolt up properly to bell housings and trans input shafts. The parts are easier and less expensive to find. I will be doing that on my next t-340 build and replace the lower serial 135. However the engine i just rebuilt is a nice runner and has plenty of power. It’s just things like all bearings, heads and pistons are hard to find ( good quality ones). In in regard to the original post I have about 40 hours on the dozer now and I found out the issues of the tracks. First, the tracks are not worn consistently over the sprocket. The number of teeth are even so every other sprocket sees a link every time whereas the alternating sprockets never see a sprocket. No progression like in the later 340 models. So I picked the nicest teeth to run in. Secondly, and most influential, was that I had a couple of stuck pins. When I say stuck I mean STUCK. lickily they were stuck in the arc of the sprocket so driving was possible. This is how the tracks loosened and tightened as the machine drove. Well after loosening the track just enough to prevent damage and applying kroil continually, all the right pins loosened and now the tracks are perfect! I’m continually tu big and adjusting as I commission the unit but getting more work done and please with the performance The next issue is to adjust clutches and then rebuild the ripper Thanks for all the advice of anyone has any questions let me know thanks Kevin
  3. HI Rawliegh99 - is that procedure something you could email? would like to get the whole thing and print it out to study and add soem other planning. need to fix my 340 rear sprockets....
  4. so i rearranged my schedule and worked on the dozer this evening. so my track tension gear was pretty clean and i was able to loosen it up enough to fully retract the idler wheel with gave me just enough room to manhandle the tracks over one sprocket tooth.the sprocket is definitely worn non-uniformly but the new position is much better then the existing. i retentsioned the track and took her for a ride. MUCH MUCH better. PHEW!!! now i just need to get some drive clutch adjustments done, keep going thru commissioning trials and rebuild the loader and bucket........ i also need to measure up the bushings and figure out if I should consider turning them soon. the drain hole drilled into the bottom of the exhaust manifold needs to be plugged - its getting soot all over the engine and add to the noise. i think its heating up the carb too.
  5. i also think that the prior owner tightened the **** out of the tracks to try to overcome that issue. could have played a tune on the tracks they were so tight....
  6. so i was able to spend some time and investigate. one sprocket has very random wear and a bit more than the other (this is the one causing trouble) however in general most wear was every other sprocket valley. I suspect that sprocket was used prior to being installed on this one. the other sprocket looks quite good comparatively. so i marked the sprocket tracks for those receiving the bushing and drove around for a bit - no progression - so verified that the same sprocket locations always get a bushing and the adjacent never does. so it must be an even number of sprocket teeth. so i am going to go with option 1 listed above and try to change the location as well as throw in a little option 2 and grind some of the worst offenders. we'll see how it goes and at least prove the concept. when I progress the tracks I'll check out the condition of the "new" valleys and go from there - I need to investigate my other machines to see if any sprockets are good. so i also want to look into number of teeth - i think the later ones have an additional tooth (solid versus spokes) but not sure - ran out of time before I could check. maybe the parts book lists it.....
  7. hi all! need to pick ur brains.... my t-340 that I just overhauled the engine on has a bit of an issue with the tracks and sprockets. the tracks are berco's and visually look good. i didnt measure the wear yet (with gage etc). however when i was moving snow a couple months ago I didnt get very far as the track would bind up at certain points (not continually) and the resistance to moving was extreme. i thought it was because the tracks got bound with snow and ice and dirt, so i released the track tension a bit - but it still would bind at certain points. extreme to the point that I feared for the final drive bearings and housing. after much investigation I found that the pins and bushing are all still "round" and about he same distance apart - but some sprocket teeth were hitting the bushing squarely on the bushing and not meshing properly. first thought was worn pins, second thought was worn sprockets and bushing. well turns out the sprockets has some non-uniform tooth wear. see the pics. not sure why this is happening other than that the track pitch and the pitch diameter of the sprocket are perfect for the bushing to hit the same sprocket tooth all the time (even # - not progressions). I was thinking of several subsequent actions: 1) providing that the same tooth get the bushing each time, rotate the engagement of the sprocket one tooth and go to the "un-worn" teeth. would also need to verify that the sprocket wear is systematic and not random. 2) grind down the tip of each "bad" sprocket tooth to engage properly 3) take off the sprocket and weld/machine/grind back to mate to the existing tracks. 4) maybe some of the other spare sprockets i have will fit better. I'm really hoping for option one or two as I have to get some work done WITH the machine and no longer ON the machine!!! (haaa) of course option 3 would be the most interesting (and expensive) but I would need to get info on the materials, geometry, and hardening. when I got the machine someone had put some work into the tracks (i think it was running well at that point - prior to being submerged) but had the tracks SUPER tensioned. wondering if that was the fix or possibly the cause. dont have much time to think about it these days - nor play around. thanks!
  8. Nice work!! clean and professional - looks like fun and like it will work well. quick question - how were the slides on the adjusters? my slides were cut-off at one point and reweleded on and they are not properly aligned. I need to loos to see if track frame is bent.....winter project (not stating the YEAR of which winter, just saying "a" winter................)
  9. I guess im loosing my technical prowess... I tried listing in craigslist (here https://albany.craigslist.org/grd/d/ihc-international-harvester/6591403523.html) and all i get for that and my other posts on IH parts is spam.... ugh! I did get the "see other items" going on craigslist. I also tried listing in facebook on "The IH Trader! International Harvester Classifieds" and I got one response but i cant seem to find the add. anywhere else someone know where and how to list nationwide? ill guess ill try yesterday's tractors next..... thanks Kevin
  10. I guess im loosing my technical prowess... I tried listing in craigslist (here https://albany.craigslist.org/grd/d/ihc-international-harvester/6591403523.html) and all i get for that and my other posts on IH parts is spam.... ugh! I did get the "see other items" going on craigslist. I also tried listing in facebook on "The IH Trader! International Harvester Classifieds" and I got one response but i cant seem to find the add. anywhere else someone know where and how to list nationwide? thanks Kevin
  11. check this out: https://hudsonvalley.craigslist.org/hvo/d/ih-340-engine/6525374986.html he put up pictures so i assume its still for sale.
  12. If the hole missed anything important, the block can be welded up rather easily......
  13. FYI.... https://hudsonvalley.craigslist.org/hvo/d/ih-340-engine/6525374986.html
  14. howdy, i plan on getting my 1976 fleetstar with the 270 engine back on the road this summer. its an old tractor trailer truck that was converted to a dump. short wheelbase. it has the engine cover in the cab but from what i can recall the engine is vertical. not sure if i can notice a 6%. how much does your slant? i can look at mine and let you know. maybe yours was an original dump and was a running gear or road clearance issue? is the engine at a slant and the transmission vertical or both tilted? interesting topic. let me know if i can help with any pictures. this link shows what looks like a cummins leaning on a slant from the factory. https://www.google.com/search?q=1965+fleetstar&safe=active&tbm=isch&source=lnms&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiW8L7cx7faAhUK2lMKHUOZBi4Q_AUIxwEoAQ&biw=1366&bih=637#imgrc=PpNV-1PKC4UyJM: this has some more detail https://www.mylittlesalesman.com/1974-cummins-fleetstar-engine-8903361 so it looks like from the factory. my fan is steel and i have shutters on the grille. I did some research and my truck is as it came from the factory - i did hear that some units that were originally detroit diesels (6-72's) that were commonly retrofitted later with the Cummins (folk lore?). i have a 9 speed road ranger and single axle - with a short driveshaft!!
  15. OHHH - the cost. so i think it may be like mother's not being able to recall the pain of childbirth.....i could go try to find all the receipts and stuff but to be honest - i really dont want to know! the figures below are a guess/best recollection. So to set the stage I went to "do the job once and do it right" approach. spared no reasonable cost/effort. I had HUGE fun going thru the parts catalog and listing everything i needed. then I went hunting by part numbers! the only thing more fun than that was overhauling it - im nuts I didnt want to do it and then risk all of it by skimping on a cheap part. i think the overhaul could be done for way less depending upon what you wan tint he end. maybe the head is OK and valves only need lapped - that would be significant savings. if the injectors and pump are good that would also be a significant savings. make sure you get a new injector pump umbrella seal set, new flywheel input bearing, clutch throw out bearing - as these types of things are inexpensive compared to the labor to replace after everything is assembled. I tried to get all IH original quality parts mine threw a rod and I had to have the crank #1 con rod journal welded and the whole crank machined 0.020 undersize. i think that was 250$ the head was cracked and i got a repaired head for 450$ I think valves and guides were 25$ X 8 i got new springs and retainers 10$ each? the full rebuild kit from IH was 800-900$ gaskets, pistons sleeves rings, wrist pin, cam bearings, crank and rod bearings, every little gasket new oil pump was 125$ have the block, crank and head checked for cracks at competent shop. new connecting rod bolts and nuts are a MUST! I think those were 15$ a piece. when I overhauled my C-135 (low serial number) they wanted 60$ a piece!!!! new clutch disk was 75$ and i didnt need to resurface flywheel. I used all new fasteners on rotating components. I had the injectors and pump rebuilt for 400$ Parts reused without and additional cost: crank balancer, cam, flywheel, rocker arms bar and push rods, I think i replaced the crank pulley - that was 150$ all new glow plugs 10$ each X 4 there is also more than just part cost. you'll want to make or get a nice puller for the piston sleeves (they are dry sleeves) and dry ice to put the new ones in. SO before you get depressed - - find out what was "bad" and go from there YOU MAY NOT NEED THE FULL MONTY!! these engines do have a reputation for throwing rods - so no matter what you do get new rod bolts. however maybe the pistons, liners, heads are all good and you dont need to replace them. maybe the injector pump is mis-timed and it just wont fire and you dont need those overhauled. maybe its just the injector pump that needs overhaul - those are very simple and relatively common. maybe it got water down the exhaust and you only need to change out one cylinder and valve set. If you do get the machine and determine the cost to repair, you'll still be able to part it out and recoup some or possibly make your $$ back. feel free to PM me or email if you want to discuss. thanks!
  16. Hi guys, I have an 1976 Fleetstar with a 270 cummins that was an semi tractor that was turned into a dump truck. I need to get new front tires and started looking into floatation tires 11r22.5. the existing tires are great on pavement but not so good in dirt - it doesn't go anywhere in any kind of wet soil conditions. the front tires sink right in. I've been doing my best keeping git out of trouble but even in the spring thaw in the driveway it gets quite messy. maybe in the future I will put rear air bags on it but thats VERY far off. its obvious that the ground pressure of the front tires from the engine etc is tremendous, especially with the skinny the road tires. so i was looking to see if anyone has any experience on what size floatation tires or what technical aspects to consider. first off is wheel well clearance, second is OD, third is the strain on the steering and axle. I would assume the rims would need to be replaced as well - in order to keep the center of the fire aligned with the center of the steering pivots/kingpin. The front suspension is bone stock. I have on good front wheel i was going to keep as a spare (front or back) i was also considering just going to the widest non-floatation tire as well, wanting open shoulders for sure. the cost is a big factor. it may be only two tires but I need to ensure what i buy will work - i very much can't afford a mistake! any help or advise would be greatly appreciated.
  17. So a little background, I bought most of my stuff on eBAY and Craigslist over the years but it seems that eBAY is now a parts distributor (buy it now) rather than an auction place. I also see the trend over the past few years where the availability and quantity of parts on ebay are diminishing. they cant all be bought up and hoarded??? I expect prices to keep climbing as well but some of the items are just plain ridiculous! so I was wondering if there was a new place where these items have gone to? anyone have any recommendations on places or how to search better? the parts and machines can be getting that rare that quickly so I am thinking people have just gravitated towards other websites or avenues to sell/buy. even with craigslists - I found that you have to manually look at each different locations (state, city, area etc) cause a general search doesnt return anything. maybe I am wrong or getting old and in the way..... I have even just searched google and yahoo looking for items but it seems they all lead back to the same storefronts that are on eBAY or business websites. just wondering.......
  18. Hi All, So a little background, I bought most of my stuff on eBAY and Craigslist over the years but it seems that eBAY is now a parts distributor (buy it now) rather than an auction place. I also see the trend over the past few years where the availability and quantity of parts are diminishing. so I was wondering if there was a new place where these items have gone to? anyone have any recommendations? the parts and machines can be getting that rare that quickly so I am thinking people have just gravitated towards other websites or avenues to sell/buy. maybe I am wrong. I have even just searched google and yahoo looking for items but it seems they all lead back to the same storefronts that are on eBAY or business websites. just wondering.......
  19. Howdy, I rebuilt a TD-340 with a D-166 several years ago. they are a bit different from the D-188 but may swap - I always wanted to try that but I was able to get all the parts I needed to just overhaul the one I had. Mine also threw a rod thru the block. The rod missed the oil supply galley and just popped a hole thru the web. I welded a cast iron patch into it and painted the inside with glyptol to seal any minute cracks. I found a replacement rod and had the crankshaft welded up and turned (all to 0.020") parts are still available I got most of mine on eBAY but that seems to have gone to the wayside. watch for cracks in the heads around injector ports and valves. injectors and pumps are relatively easy to repair/find. Mine runs great I warm mine up easy and cool it down for a long time - all in hopes to reduce wear and keep parts from cracking. one thing is that most of my diesel D-166 and D-188 engines had the original counter balancer removed. I have one engine running without it and it seems to be fine. I run her at a "sweet spot" in the engine speed where she has enough lugging power and minimal vibration. I can stall it if I really try but I dont abuse my machines. i take 50% to maybe 75% of max loads and My D-188 is in a backhoe and is a great little engine. best thing to do is go to binder books and get a TD-340, T-340, 340, 504 or 2504 tractor parts, maintenance and operating manual. each engine has variants and serials and you can readily find interchange parts at least by part number. keep in mind some parts will swap but may not be the same part # because of a nuance. I made my own radiator mounts for both the early and late version of mountings - let me know if you want some and I can make some as I saved the molds and the parts. they are a bit expensive cause of materials but its easier than changing the radiator or shell mounting system. I modified a new IH2504 aftermarket radiator to fit with a little modification to it. the radiator is really nice brass and solder unit - will last my lifetime. I also have an old series C-135 gas engine that I completely rebuilt. had cracks in the engine block on the cooling web. if I had to do again I would have swapped in a later version as the parts are stronger and more readily available. i probably spent more on that on gas engine than on the two diesel overhauls. like i said, i would really look into later model C-135 engines. I opted out of swapping a gas for a diesel as the extra items needed to fit into the machines. I put a paper element air cleaner onto my T-340 using a D-188 intake system (almost the same as a D-166) to keep filter stores down as I dont like oil bath cleaners. I like the little dozers - they pack a punch for their size (10k with drott) and the additional tooling isnt much bigger than typical stuff. and if you get them stuck or the need towing/transporting you dont need to mortgage the house to rescue them. I keep my machines all in the 40-50 hp range so I can bail out one with the other. hope this helps - let me know if you have questions and maybe I can help- good luck!!! Kevin
  20. Hi - did you happen to discover any more details on this? interested in what you find out and do. thanks
  21. nice job! - what kind(brand ) of paint did you use? isnt it a nice milestone when the lights get hooked up and work!?!?
  22. Hi. Saw the pics and the video. This is great. Looking at the post and noticed the date. Do you still have the tractor? I have. 1936 T40 that I have never got running. Engine is about the same thing. Was going to try working on it this winter. Happen to have any detailed pictures of the engine and intervals?
  23. Looks like a typical Mennonite adaptation. Go with what makes you happy
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