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About hoodeleydoo

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    Schoharie NY

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  1. Hi Pete, my recommendation is to investigate using a later serial number C-135 the parts are much easier to come by. the blocks are different between earlier and later. get the entire parts books from Binder books and it is readily apparent the differences. you'll save much headache in the long run. parts are not interchangeable between the two C-135 engine series but i do believe they rotate in same direction and bolt up to housings, input shafts, clutches, etc. however i have not done this personally yet so I cannot verify entirely.
  2. Hi. I have some parts but most are needed or spoken for. Send me a PM and we can discuss. As far as t-340 parts -as far as engine parts - my suggestion would be to investigate going with the later serial number engine series. I beleive they rotate in the same direction and bolt up properly to bell housings and trans input shafts. The parts are easier and less expensive to find. I will be doing that on my next t-340 build and replace the lower serial 135. However the engine i just rebuilt is a nice runner and has plenty of power. It’s just things like all bearings, heads and pistons are hard to find ( good quality ones). In in regard to the original post I have about 40 hours on the dozer now and I found out the issues of the tracks. First, the tracks are not worn consistently over the sprocket. The number of teeth are even so every other sprocket sees a link every time whereas the alternating sprockets never see a sprocket. No progression like in the later 340 models. So I picked the nicest teeth to run in. Secondly, and most influential, was that I had a couple of stuck pins. When I say stuck I mean STUCK. lickily they were stuck in the arc of the sprocket so driving was possible. This is how the tracks loosened and tightened as the machine drove. Well after loosening the track just enough to prevent damage and applying kroil continually, all the right pins loosened and now the tracks are perfect! I’m continually tu big and adjusting as I commission the unit but getting more work done and please with the performance The next issue is to adjust clutches and then rebuild the ripper Thanks for all the advice of anyone has any questions let me know thanks Kevin
  3. HI Rawliegh99 - is that procedure something you could email? would like to get the whole thing and print it out to study and add soem other planning. need to fix my 340 rear sprockets....
  4. Hey Hoodeleydoo, how did you determine the mfr of your tracks?  Ive been researching the origin of mine along with who made my blade?  If you read MISSION ACCOMPLISHED you will see in my pics my machine, member mmi said its a mishmash of different parts, but it seems like everything belongs together.  I know Drott use to make items for IH but there are no markings on tracks or blade as to who made them.  Any ideas or info you can provide would be helpful.


    1960 IHT340(4) 12-11-2011.JPG

  5. so i rearranged my schedule and worked on the dozer this evening. so my track tension gear was pretty clean and i was able to loosen it up enough to fully retract the idler wheel with gave me just enough room to manhandle the tracks over one sprocket tooth.the sprocket is definitely worn non-uniformly but the new position is much better then the existing. i retentsioned the track and took her for a ride. MUCH MUCH better. PHEW!!! now i just need to get some drive clutch adjustments done, keep going thru commissioning trials and rebuild the loader and bucket........ i also need to measure up the bushings and figure out if I should consider turning them soon. the drain hole drilled into the bottom of the exhaust manifold needs to be plugged - its getting soot all over the engine and add to the noise. i think its heating up the carb too.
  6. i also think that the prior owner tightened the **** out of the tracks to try to overcome that issue. could have played a tune on the tracks they were so tight....
  7. so i was able to spend some time and investigate. one sprocket has very random wear and a bit more than the other (this is the one causing trouble) however in general most wear was every other sprocket valley. I suspect that sprocket was used prior to being installed on this one. the other sprocket looks quite good comparatively. so i marked the sprocket tracks for those receiving the bushing and drove around for a bit - no progression - so verified that the same sprocket locations always get a bushing and the adjacent never does. so it must be an even number of sprocket teeth. so i am going to go with option 1 listed above and try to change the location as well as throw in a little option 2 and grind some of the worst offenders. we'll see how it goes and at least prove the concept. when I progress the tracks I'll check out the condition of the "new" valleys and go from there - I need to investigate my other machines to see if any sprockets are good. so i also want to look into number of teeth - i think the later ones have an additional tooth (solid versus spokes) but not sure - ran out of time before I could check. maybe the parts book lists it.....
  8. hi all! need to pick ur brains.... my t-340 that I just overhauled the engine on has a bit of an issue with the tracks and sprockets. the tracks are berco's and visually look good. i didnt measure the wear yet (with gage etc). however when i was moving snow a couple months ago I didnt get very far as the track would bind up at certain points (not continually) and the resistance to moving was extreme. i thought it was because the tracks got bound with snow and ice and dirt, so i released the track tension a bit - but it still would bind at certain points. extreme to the point that I feared for the final drive bearings and housing. after much investigation I found that the pins and bushing are all still "round" and about he same distance apart - but some sprocket teeth were hitting the bushing squarely on the bushing and not meshing properly. first thought was worn pins, second thought was worn sprockets and bushing. well turns out the sprockets has some non-uniform tooth wear. see the pics. not sure why this is happening other than that the track pitch and the pitch diameter of the sprocket are perfect for the bushing to hit the same sprocket tooth all the time (even # - not progressions). I was thinking of several subsequent actions: 1) providing that the same tooth get the bushing each time, rotate the engagement of the sprocket one tooth and go to the "un-worn" teeth. would also need to verify that the sprocket wear is systematic and not random. 2) grind down the tip of each "bad" sprocket tooth to engage properly 3) take off the sprocket and weld/machine/grind back to mate to the existing tracks. 4) maybe some of the other spare sprockets i have will fit better. I'm really hoping for option one or two as I have to get some work done WITH the machine and no longer ON the machine!!! (haaa) of course option 3 would be the most interesting (and expensive) but I would need to get info on the materials, geometry, and hardening. when I got the machine someone had put some work into the tracks (i think it was running well at that point - prior to being submerged) but had the tracks SUPER tensioned. wondering if that was the fix or possibly the cause. dont have much time to think about it these days - nor play around. thanks!
  9. Nice work!! clean and professional - looks like fun and like it will work well. quick question - how were the slides on the adjusters? my slides were cut-off at one point and reweleded on and they are not properly aligned. I need to loos to see if track frame is bent.....winter project (not stating the YEAR of which winter, just saying "a" winter................)
  10. I guess im loosing my technical prowess... I tried listing in craigslist (here https://albany.craigslist.org/grd/d/ihc-international-harvester/6591403523.html) and all i get for that and my other posts on IH parts is spam.... ugh! I did get the "see other items" going on craigslist. I also tried listing in facebook on "The IH Trader! International Harvester Classifieds" and I got one response but i cant seem to find the add. anywhere else someone know where and how to list nationwide? ill guess ill try yesterday's tractors next..... thanks Kevin
  11. So a little background, I bought most of my stuff on eBAY and Craigslist over the years but it seems that eBAY is now a parts distributor (buy it now) rather than an auction place. I also see the trend over the past few years where the availability and quantity of parts on ebay are diminishing. they cant all be bought up and hoarded??? I expect prices to keep climbing as well but some of the items are just plain ridiculous! so I was wondering if there was a new place where these items have gone to? anyone have any recommendations on places or how to search better? the parts and machines can be getting that rare that quickly so I am thinking people have just gravitated towards other websites or avenues to sell/buy. even with craigslists - I found that you have to manually look at each different locations (state, city, area etc) cause a general search doesnt return anything. maybe I am wrong or getting old and in the way..... I have even just searched google and yahoo looking for items but it seems they all lead back to the same storefronts that are on eBAY or business websites. just wondering.......
  12. nice job! - what kind(brand ) of paint did you use? isnt it a nice milestone when the lights get hooked up and work!?!?
  13. Hi. Saw the pics and the video. This is great. Looking at the post and noticed the date. Do you still have the tractor? I have. 1936 T40 that I have never got running. Engine is about the same thing. Was going to try working on it this winter. Happen to have any detailed pictures of the engine and intervals?
  14. Looks like a typical Mennonite adaptation. Go with what makes you happy
  15. I use a arc welding rod purchased from "muggy weld". The name is unusual but the rod works great. I have welded theee blocks in varying degree and they are working great. The one crack between the holes is not going to go anywhere if the crack is entire they the thickness of the web and there are no unusual webs below the deck that the crack can continue to travel. However the antifreeze will seep into the bolt threads and cause issue over time. You can check out my recent t340 post in construction to see the webs I welded with it. Feel free to ask questions. kevin.
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