66 Series Farmer
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Posts posted by 66 Series Farmer
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I'm no mechanic either but did own a mtx140 McCormick. In general a lot of electrical issues can be caused by bad grounds or loose connections on +and - so I would make sure you are all good there. I had trouble on my 140 with the pto not staying on. It gets signal from the alternator and if the voltage is low or drops it won't stay running. I changed pto speed sensors, checked voltages, RE programed based on manual and never did it get. Guy I sold it to changed alternator and still has issues with it. It has less problems with 1000 and acts up more on 540. (This all started too after I had the pto fall out so to snap ring issues while mowing). When trying to fix the pto problem I read several forum posts and one potential issue that was brought up was the safety sensor in the seat. You might check to see if it has one, if it does, will bypassing it fix the problem? It was said that it can cause the pto to not work and potentially the neutral switch.
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15 hours ago, Rick G. said:
Something similar happened to me with my now ex 1980 1086. The left battery. I was running the tractor in the field and smelled burning. Talk about scaring the crap out of you.
I stopped and shut ‘er down and jumped out. I quickly traced it to the left battery. I carried fire extinguishers in my tractors so I started blasting away at it the best I could through what narrow opening there was. Lol.
I got the battery cover off and got the battery out of there. Had a good chance to practice my drunken sailor vocabulary in the process. Ha ha.
Well those batteries were both several years old so while I was at it I went and removed the right battery just to be safe and went and got two new ones. It was a week day during business hours so our local CASE IH dealer was open. Went there to purchase.
Buttoned everything back up and away I went no further problems. So yeah in my case it was the battery decided to short out I guess. Scary deal.
I'm wondering if it is just the battery as well. Left one seemed just fine and not the slightest bit hot. I'll check the alternator to make sure. Batteries are Interstates stamp for March of 2019 which is a little disappointing.
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Mowing hay today and while switching with dad I noticed a smell. After a series of events I discovered the right battery was smoking. Nothing seemed wrong with the left battery. Parked it outside and unhooked both batteries. Alternator was recently rebuild and actually had it rechecked out before the start of spring. (Volt gauge maxes out and it didn't use too, hence the reason I had it checked) I wanted to make sure it wasn't over charging and was confirmed not to be.
So I know over charging is going to be the first thing everyone says.
Could one battery be bad causing this?
or would both batteries be effected if it was truly over charging? I didn't take the time to test with a volt meter. Was more worried about a tractor not burning and finishing mowing hay.
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I have ran two Demco pull types on my 5488. The first was a 60' which had a hydraulic fold box that could be switched from open center to closed center. Attached picture is the pin that goes in for closed center and out for open center. My current Demco is a 90 and the fold box is only for closed center. Last two years I have ran the pump on lever closest to door and down to pump and float to off. Return line turn into the return line below on the tractor. I have been running the boom on the inside lever locked backwards using the slide rod. I have been returning the boom back into the remote directly. I have too many terraces and need for the boom to be shutting it on and off so this year I ran it on all the time. It seemed to get along fine. I'm not sure it is necessary to return/T your boom into the other return line. If the pump is deadheaded then there shouldn't be any flow coming back to the tractor unless your are activating a boom function.
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is this what your looking for?
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39 minutes ago, nate said:
Is there room to get the air filter out or do you need to remove the puke tank?
Plenty of room. I made sure it slides past without issue.
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Decided to leave it on the left side and just reused the overflow hose already on it. Pretty slick
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Happen to know what size of hose? Going to send dad to town but not close to tanks or tractor anytime soon.
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Farmall 1066, if you back up to my one post of the picture and tap on the little right pointing arrow on the top right corn of the picture it actuals takes you back the the original post 88power did in August. I just learned this trick myself last night.
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I believe I had to go back to page 50 plus to get to August 2021
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On 8/19/2021 at 4:52 PM, 88power said:
Kept having problems with over filling or they were afraid to over fill and not put enough in and the low coolant light would flash I found these at advance auto,had to remove the ether despencer but we never used them anyway, you'll also see my custom aux condenser mounting bracket I'm trying out and please forgive my spill
Me too and I finally went back far enough and found it. Couldn’t find it through Google
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On 6/17/2021 at 4:40 PM, todd.crow said:
I have my new to me 5088 hooked to my new to me Fast 9420 sprayer and have a couple hydraulic questions. The sprayer has a hydraulic driven sprayer pump and a electric solenoid hydraulic control block that is used to control the boom functions.
I want to make sure I hook things up correctly. I believe that I have to hook the sprayer pump up to the outermost hydraulic lever in the cab, and then hook the return hose to the case single return line on the back of the tractor.
My question really pertains to the hydraulic block that controls the booms. It is setup for a closed center system now. The only other option is to set it as a open center valve. My guess is I need to connect this valve to the other control valve on the tractor and somehow lock the hydraulics on to that valve.
How will the pump react to this setup? With this is my first experience with a PFC type hydraulic system and want to make sure that I have it setup correctly and not burn up the tractor hydraulic pump.
Thanks
Todd, does the valve spool on the far left hand side (one turned sideways) of your valve block have a pin in it similar to mine? I’m guessing the two big hoses right next to it is your power and return lines to the tractor.
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On 6/17/2021 at 4:40 PM, todd.crow said:
I have my new to me 5088 hooked to my new to me Fast 9420 sprayer and have a couple hydraulic questions. The sprayer has a hydraulic driven sprayer pump and a electric solenoid hydraulic control block that is used to control the boom functions.
I want to make sure I hook things up correctly. I believe that I have to hook the sprayer pump up to the outermost hydraulic lever in the cab, and then hook the return hose to the case single return line on the back of the tractor.
My question really pertains to the hydraulic block that controls the booms. It is setup for a closed center system now. The only other option is to set it as a open center valve. My guess is I need to connect this valve to the other control valve on the tractor and somehow lock the hydraulics on to that valve.
How will the pump react to this setup? With this is my first experience with a PFC type hydraulic system and want to make sure that I have it setup correctly and not burn up the tractor hydraulic pump.
Thanks
Todd, not sure if you got the answers you needed but I have finally got more information on my question. I called Demco directly and Jerry was very helpful. Even though my boom hydraulic valve body is setup for closed center, I can make an adjustment on the last solenoid which is the one in the far right side of my picture. It has a pin in it and has the turn knob you see to keep it tightened down. He instructed me to loosen It and pull this pin out to make the value open center. From everything I have read this should protect the pump and allow continuous flow (open center). Jerry did say that at least for Demco they only want 30% of flow to the boom control box. He highly encouraged me to turn flow way down.
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Just a quick update. I had time to look around today. Used a jumper wire to the cab and the flashers started working. Weird thing was once I did it to the right one it stay working even after I removed the little jumper wire. I had moved a bunch of wires around under fender but still can’t figure that one out. Regardless i ran a new ground wire to both of the rear flashers and ground it to the cab shell and all is fine.
I appreciate everyone’s help.
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Thanks guys. I need to blow out the cab filter so I’ll have to do some exploring this weekend and try to trace some wires inside the cab.
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I would agree John. If I remember correctly I was grounding the test light to the cab frame. Is there a common ground point for the rear lights under one of the fenders by chance. I don’t have any access to a wiring diagram.
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On my 5088 the front two cab hazard flashers both work and both work with their respective turn signal direction. Neither of the two rear ones work. I have taken both of the bulbs out and both appear to be fine. I have even switched one of the front working bulbs to the back with no change. Last fall when I was testing everything, I could get my test light to light up on the rear wires but it was constant and not flashing.
What I have done so far is changed out the flasher unit under the dash with a new one from Mike at Triple R. Was really hoping this was going to fix it but it didn't make a difference.
I still need to check the rear outlet plug to see if I plugged an implement into if the flasher has power back to it.
Any ideas where to check next? From previous post it sounds like their is a connector under the upper fuel tank that goes to the top of the cab. I'm still a little confused how I was getting power to my test light but it was constant and not flashing.
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Ok so I have the same question Todd does. I’m running similar sprayer on a 5088 and 5488. Outside black lever runs sprayer pump fine and is returned to the right spot. I have flow turned down so it matches the pressure I need.
Now..our question is does keeping another outlet pushed forward/back all the time to supply power to the boom folding box hurt the pump. Ideally I would have constant power to the boom so I could use the joystick on ends and terraces. The block is set up for closed center.
Tractor troubles: NO PTO, Forward, Reverse
in Technical IH Talk
Posted
There should be a signal wire coming off of the alternator, makes sure it is in good condition and not broke or cut.