66 Series Farmer

There should be a signal wire coming off of the alternator, makes sure it is in good condition and not broke or cut.

I'm no mechanic either but did own a mtx140 McCormick. In general a lot of electrical issues can be caused by bad grounds or loose connections on +and - so I would make sure you are all good there. I had trouble on my 140 with the pto not staying on. It gets signal from the alternator and if the voltage is low or drops it won't stay running. I changed pto speed sensors, checked voltages, RE programed based on manual and never did it get. Guy I sold it to changed alternator and still has issues with it. It has less problems with 1000 and acts up more on 540. (This all started too after I had the pto fall out so to snap ring issues while mowing). When trying to fix the pto problem I read several forum posts and one potential issue that was brought up was the safety sensor in the seat. You might check to see if it has one, if it does, will bypassing it fix the problem? It was said that it can cause the pto to not work and potentially the neutral switch.

I'm wondering if it is just the battery as well. Left one seemed just fine and not the slightest bit hot. I'll check the alternator to make sure. Batteries are Interstates stamp for March of 2019 which is a little disappointing.

Mowing hay today and while switching with dad I noticed a smell. After a series of events I discovered the right battery was smoking. Nothing seemed wrong with the left battery. Parked it outside and unhooked both batteries. Alternator was recently rebuild and actually had it rechecked out before the start of spring. (Volt gauge maxes out and it didn't use too, hence the reason I had it checked) I wanted to make sure it wasn't over charging and was confirmed not to be. So I know over charging is going to be the first thing everyone says. Could one battery be bad causing this? or would both batteries be effected if it was truly over charging? I didn't take the time to test with a volt meter. Was more worried about a tractor not burning and finishing mowing hay.

I have ran two Demco pull types on my 5488. The first was a 60' which had a hydraulic fold box that could be switched from open center to closed center. Attached picture is the pin that goes in for closed center and out for open center. My current Demco is a 90 and the fold box is only for closed center. Last two years I have ran the pump on lever closest to door and down to pump and float to off. Return line turn into the return line below on the tractor. I have been running the boom on the inside lever locked backwards using the slide rod. I have been returning the boom back into the remote directly. I have too many terraces and need for the boom to be shutting it on and off so this year I ran it on all the time. It seemed to get along fine. I'm not sure it is necessary to return/T your boom into the other return line. If the pump is deadheaded then there shouldn't be any flow coming back to the tractor unless your are activating a boom function.

is this what your looking for?

Plenty of room. I made sure it slides past without issue.

Decided to leave it on the left side and just reused the overflow hose already on it. Pretty slick

Happen to know what size of hose? Going to send dad to town but not close to tanks or tractor anytime soon.

Farmall 1066, if you back up to my one post of the picture and tap on the little right pointing arrow on the top right corn of the picture it actuals takes you back the the original post 88power did in August. I just learned this trick myself last night.

I believe I had to go back to page 50 plus to get to August 2021

Me too and I finally went back far enough and found it. Couldn’t find it through Google

Todd, not sure if you got the answers you needed but I have finally got more information on my question. I called Demco directly and Jerry was very helpful. Even though my boom hydraulic valve body is setup for closed center, I can make an adjustment on the last solenoid which is the one in the far right side of my picture. It has a pin in it and has the turn knob you see to keep it tightened down. He instructed me to loosen It and pull this pin out to make the value open center. From everything I have read this should protect the pump and allow continuous flow (open center). Jerry did say that at least for Demco they only want 30% of flow to the boom control box. He highly encouraged me to turn flow way down.

Just a quick update. I had time to look around today. Used a jumper wire to the cab and the flashers started working. Weird thing was once I did it to the right one it stay working even after I removed the little jumper wire. I had moved a bunch of wires around under fender but still can’t figure that one out. Regardless i ran a new ground wire to both of the rear flashers and ground it to the cab shell and all is fine. I appreciate everyone’s help.

Thanks guys. I need to blow out the cab filter so I’ll have to do some exploring this weekend and try to trace some wires inside the cab.

I would agree John. If I remember correctly I was grounding the test light to the cab frame. Is there a common ground point for the rear lights under one of the fenders by chance. I don’t have any access to a wiring diagram.

On my 5088 the front two cab hazard flashers both work and both work with their respective turn signal direction. Neither of the two rear ones work. I have taken both of the bulbs out and both appear to be fine. I have even switched one of the front working bulbs to the back with no change. Last fall when I was testing everything, I could get my test light to light up on the rear wires but it was constant and not flashing. What I have done so far is changed out the flasher unit under the dash with a new one from Mike at Triple R. Was really hoping this was going to fix it but it didn't make a difference. I still need to check the rear outlet plug to see if I plugged an implement into if the flasher has power back to it. Any ideas where to check next? From previous post it sounds like their is a connector under the upper fuel tank that goes to the top of the cab. I'm still a little confused how I was getting power to my test light but it was constant and not flashing.

Definitely buy the caps and take the time to pull the floor. The 5488 I purchased they left the hose on with a cap. Well eventually that hose wears a hole in it sitting on top of hot steel lines and then leaks 20-30 gal of hytran out while driving down a dusty road and you don’t notice it until the steer starts not working. 😡 the caps are way cheaper than the hytran. Don’t ask me how I know.

Ok so I have the same question Todd does. I’m running similar sprayer on a 5088 and 5488. Outside black lever runs sprayer pump fine and is returned to the right spot. I have flow turned down so it matches the pressure I need. Now..our question is does keeping another outlet pushed forward/back all the time to supply power to the boom folding box hurt the pump. Ideally I would have constant power to the boom so I could use the joystick on ends and terraces. The block is set up for closed center.