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Posts posted by fbh31118

  1. Here is what Fel-Pro gasket has to say about the felt rear main seal.  So, take it for what it's worth and tell me what you guys think about this:


    Hi Brian,

    After some searching (we don't have a service manual for this application on-hand) we have determined it would be best to treat this seal like a rope RMB seal. 

    Install the RMB seal into the block after soaking it in oil. Rope seals have graphite in them for lubricity while felt does not, so that’s why we suggest soaking the felt in oil. Install the seal into the block cavity first and use a large socket (3/4” or larger) to roll the seal into the groove. Install the crankshaft & carefully trim the seal so it sticks up past the block edge about 1/16”. Install the RMB seal into the RMB cap in the same fashion. Since the felt is oil soaked, no RTV can be applied to the ends of the seal as it will not cure properly. We would apply a thin coat of RTV along the sides of the RMB cap where it joins the block to seal it. Like a rope seal, this type of seal will likely seep some over time.

  2. On 10/29/2016 at 9:39 PM, Diesel Doctor said:

    I rolled as much as I could into the two halves with a socket with the seal dry

    I then trimmed the ends flush with a razor blade, liberally oiled the felt on both halves and bolted together.

    This was 10 years ago and no leaks.

    Will try to get the book out and see how IH says to do it.

    I've heard both stories now and I can see logic in both ways and here is my thought on the issue as this point.  It would stand to reason that the the ends of the seal that stick out of the upper and lower half of the holder should not combine in length to be any longer than the amount of sticking out of the middle of the holder.  So, for instance if there is a quarter of an inch sticking up in the middle of the holder than I would expect there to be an eighth of an inch sticking out of the ends of the holder, right?  That would give me a quarter of an inch all the way around it would seem.  I will keep researching the issue but as of yet I have found no references in the book to lead me in any direction which makes me think that this was or used to be common engine 101 back in the day.  

  3. Sorry Doug in NY, no updates just yet.  My work schedule is rough to say the least so things have been at a bit of a stand still.  I have a week off after I get out on Friday so hopefully I can get a day in some where.  There is a pile of parts at the farm so I really need to get some work done if the weather permits.  I will try and get some more progress pics if I get out there to it, I have a few short video's but nothing that is really that exciting.  

  4. Jason, 

    This is a first for me as well.  The one thought that comes to my mind is if it was done for the Mennonite or Amish I wouldn't expect the front wheels to still be rubber.  The Mennonite in my area will build steel wheels all the way around and the Amish will remove the wheels and drag it around with horses or use it as a stationary engine.   A parts book will list the part numbers for the wheels if they ever existed and I wouldn't rule it out completely as the war had every thing out of sorts.  It would be fascinating to know for sure, either way I love the look!  Great find!


  5. OK, been thinking about the items left on the list to get my motor buttoned up for the H and I keep staring at the oil pump.  I plan on getting a new relief spring and check ball(if available) checking the run out on the bearings and giving the body a bath in mineral spirits to start but is there any thing else?  I saw one guy that milled or ground the cover plate flat for better seal or pressure?  Any one have some thoughts or experience on this?

  6. On 9/2/2016 at 4:04 PM, TomH said:

    Try Bates Corp.   Example :


    New Parts


    ***NEW*** 5.08" long, 1.38" head diameter Exhaust Valve. 4 used per engine. For distillate engines on H, Super H, O4, W4.


    Inventory On Hand: 76 item(s)
    Quantity to order:

    Thank you Tom H!  I'm hoping they restock the intake as well in the near future as I am missing both.  Never thought of looking at Bates to be honest, total forgot about those guys.  

  7. CIHTech-  Copy that.  We're working on a plan to make that happen.  We had soaked the felts in assembly lube to begin with but I think we just ran into some bad luck with the seal holder.  We plan on finding a way to get help hold the assembly together while bolting back into place because the aluminum/zinc or what ever its made out of, is not meant to be drawn up on, by the two bolts.  We had the seal completely seated in the bottom of the holder but it looks like it needs to be compressed a little bit to fit around the crank.  


    tony in ca-  Thank you!

  8. Thank You MTO!


    Smoker 1:  I hear what your saying but too late I've already broken the original holder.  I have one on order and should be here by Thursday to try again.  We oiled the felt right off the bat but clearly could not get it all squeezed in there resulting in the broken holder.  I really have no idea how to get all that extra felt crammed into holder so if you or any one else has tips or suggestions please let me know.  Thanks for your help!  Will try again.


  9. Ran into a snag on the rear main seal.  I'm guessing that the felt needs to be trimmed accordingly to obtain a fit that is tight but not damaging to the casting that holds the seal.  We ended up cracking the lower portion of the rear main housing and after looking things over figured that there should only be about a 1/16 or less material sticking out to compress against the other seal half.  Please feel free to chime in on this as I would like to make sure that it goes back in correctly.




  10. Carb rebuild in process.  I wasn't happy with the basic rebuild kit.  The idle jet was spread open at the top, the dust seal around the choke shaft was loose, and the detent location on the throttle plate was worn and the part that really gets under my skin.......the fillister head 12-24 pitch screws were all beat up from screw drivers slipping out of the slots.  Also had to replace the packing which died a horrible death in the carb clean bucket...rest in peace my friend.  





  11. Sleeves installed, cam bearings installed (by the machine shop), crank bearings installed and piston assemblies being put together.  Hopefully it will start to look like a motor again soon.  I don't know a whole lot about building motors so I'm just using the factory service manuals and reading them carefully.  Rebuilt a small engine but that is a long way from this.  So far, so good.





  12. Block, crank, rods all loaded up to go to the machine shop.  Block had to be done twice due to the build up in the water jackets, the detail of the casting is amazing once you get all the stuff off.  Feels better knowing that its starting off with a good clean block and no cracks!




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