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fbh31118

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Everything posted by fbh31118

  1. I've heard both stories now and I can see logic in both ways and here is my thought on the issue as this point. It would stand to reason that the the ends of the seal that stick out of the upper and lower half of the holder should not combine in length to be any longer than the amount of sticking out of the middle of the holder. So, for instance if there is a quarter of an inch sticking up in the middle of the holder than I would expect there to be an eighth of an inch sticking out of the ends of the holder, right? That would give me a quarter of an inch all the way around it would seem. I will keep researching the issue but as of yet I have found no references in the book to lead me in any direction which makes me think that this was or used to be common engine 101 back in the day.
  2. Sorry Doug in NY, no updates just yet. My work schedule is rough to say the least so things have been at a bit of a stand still. I have a week off after I get out on Friday so hopefully I can get a day in some where. There is a pile of parts at the farm so I really need to get some work done if the weather permits. I will try and get some more progress pics if I get out there to it, I have a few short video's but nothing that is really that exciting.
  3. Jason, This is a first for me as well. The one thought that comes to my mind is if it was done for the Mennonite or Amish I wouldn't expect the front wheels to still be rubber. The Mennonite in my area will build steel wheels all the way around and the Amish will remove the wheels and drag it around with horses or use it as a stationary engine. A parts book will list the part numbers for the wheels if they ever existed and I wouldn't rule it out completely as the war had every thing out of sorts. It would be fascinating to know for sure, either way I love the look! Great find!
  4. OK, been thinking about the items left on the list to get my motor buttoned up for the H and I keep staring at the oil pump. I plan on getting a new relief spring and check ball(if available) checking the run out on the bearings and giving the body a bath in mineral spirits to start but is there any thing else? I saw one guy that milled or ground the cover plate flat for better seal or pressure? Any one have some thoughts or experience on this?
  5. Wow! Love the craftsmanship. Looks like it's going to be a sweet ride when its done.
  6. New Valves and springs are on order! Finally!!
  7. Thank you Tom H! I'm hoping they restock the intake as well in the near future as I am missing both. Never thought of looking at Bates to be honest, total forgot about those guys.
  8. I'm looking for valves for a distillate head. Any suggestions on where to go? I'm not finding my old valves as of yet and was beginning to wonder if I should start looking for replacements.
  9. CIHTech- Copy that. We're working on a plan to make that happen. We had soaked the felts in assembly lube to begin with but I think we just ran into some bad luck with the seal holder. We plan on finding a way to get help hold the assembly together while bolting back into place because the aluminum/zinc or what ever its made out of, is not meant to be drawn up on, by the two bolts. We had the seal completely seated in the bottom of the holder but it looks like it needs to be compressed a little bit to fit around the crank. tony in ca- Thank you!
  10. Thank You MTO! Smoker 1: I hear what your saying but too late I've already broken the original holder. I have one on order and should be here by Thursday to try again. We oiled the felt right off the bat but clearly could not get it all squeezed in there resulting in the broken holder. I really have no idea how to get all that extra felt crammed into holder so if you or any one else has tips or suggestions please let me know. Thanks for your help! Will try again.
  11. Na, I think I'll donate it the scrap pile on this one.
  12. Ran into a snag on the rear main seal. I'm guessing that the felt needs to be trimmed accordingly to obtain a fit that is tight but not damaging to the casting that holds the seal. We ended up cracking the lower portion of the rear main housing and after looking things over figured that there should only be about a 1/16 or less material sticking out to compress against the other seal half. Please feel free to chime in on this as I would like to make sure that it goes back in correctly.
  13. Wow! This build must be a snoozer, no bumps at all over the weekend. Guess I need to work on a more interesting tractor, . Here's a few shots from the weekend.
  14. Howdy FarmallFan,

    Here is a link to my restoration thread on my H.  Please include it in the progress thread if its ok.

    http://www.redpowermagazine.com/forums/topic/103053-1941-farmall-h/

    Thank you for your help!

    Brian

    1. fbh31118

      fbh31118

      Pardon me I posted this in the incorrect location.  Please delete as you see fit.  Thank you.

  15. Got the brass polished in the middle photo. Don't ask why, I really don't know why I did that. LOL!
  16. Carb rebuild in process. I wasn't happy with the basic rebuild kit. The idle jet was spread open at the top, the dust seal around the choke shaft was loose, and the detent location on the throttle plate was worn and the part that really gets under my skin.......the fillister head 12-24 pitch screws were all beat up from screw drivers slipping out of the slots. Also had to replace the packing which died a horrible death in the carb clean bucket...rest in peace my friend.
  17. Sleeves installed, cam bearings installed (by the machine shop), crank bearings installed and piston assemblies being put together. Hopefully it will start to look like a motor again soon. I don't know a whole lot about building motors so I'm just using the factory service manuals and reading them carefully. Rebuilt a small engine but that is a long way from this. So far, so good.
  18. Some missing pieces of the puzzle find there way home.
  19. Block, crank, rods all loaded up to go to the machine shop. Block had to be done twice due to the build up in the water jackets, the detail of the casting is amazing once you get all the stuff off. Feels better knowing that its starting off with a good clean block and no cracks!
  20. Block stripped for hot tank, pistons and rods separated, crank out. Crank looks a little rough but was still within limits after turning.
  21. So, here it goes. Been thinking about starting a thread here for a long time but just never seemed to get the project started because of work, kids, home life, funds and the usual; " Things that Kill my Cub time". Pardon me but I just had to add that quote as an inside joke for the benefit of those who recognize me screen name from another site and/or know me in person. Seems like you just never get enough time on your projects and I think that's why we tend to marvel at other peoples tractors......there complete. But I digress. My Grandparents were married in the Spring of 1942 if I remember the story correctly. They bought there Farmall H in new or nearly new condition, though I'm am unclear how this could have happened with a two year old machine but that just really isn't important so I'll move on. They operated a custom ground fitting service in there community for several years in addition to holding other jobs before actually moving to there own farm. After raising a family with the help of the H there boys decided to get in on the deal and also raised crops and farmed before and after school with my dad coming home from college to farm and work on the side. By this point my grandparents had stopped farming and had other jobs so my dad used the H for several years until purchasing an M. The H had originally been purchased on steel with a distillate motor, the steel had been cut off when rubber credits were made available and VW rim were welded in place on the front. At this point I've elected to make the tractor as close to original as I can and still keep it fun for the family to show and use. The plan is to use high dome aluminum pistons and retain the distillate head, not real sure what compression ratio that's going to give me but we'll find out. I've also found a good distillate manifold and plan on installing it so as to have the right 'look' and also managed to find a manifold cover, not that it will ever need it but I would at least like to have most of its original parts. The mag has been sent out for professional repair and came back looking beautiful, can't wait to see some spark! The original motor was cracked and welded several times so all of this work is being done to a donor motor, my plan is to hang on to the old block and do what with it, I do not know, glass top coffee table maybe? The crank has been ground, the rods have been sized and the bearings have been installed, plenty of assembly lube has been sufficently spread over every manual and article of clothing and some even made it on to the bearings! Even though just the motor work has been started, I can't help but think about the wheels. A good member of Michigan Red Power Chapter 11 sold me an older style clamp on hub where as my donor tractor had one of each. I think the old three spoke has an older feel to them so that's why I went with that. OK, ok, ok. I'm rambling just a bit here so from here on out I'll keep it to short notes and pictures. Some of you folks may have seen these in other places so if you get the feeling that this is a repeat, well.....it is. Thanks so much for all of you that have taken the time to read this and those who welcomed me at Red Power this summer in Union Grove. Hope to flood this with as many good pictures as possible. Thanks again to all those who make this hobby possible! God Bless.
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