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fbh31118

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Posts posted by fbh31118

  1. Not too much done this weekend with the holiday but I managed to get the hitch off, wheels secured and the clamps removed.  Still need to get that pesky radiator off, the car tires are right in the way to getting a good hand on those castle nuts and pulling the cotter pins out.  Grrrr.  Nearly ready for sand blasting.

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  2. Looking good!  Love the old three spoke front wheel castings, same ones I'm using on my project.  Your right on point about keeping the mag covered because if there is the smallest opening for moisture to get it there done till noon, been there before.  Old tire inter tubes make great mag covers too if you have any old ones around.

  3. 2 hours ago, Owen Aaland said:

    I think that is the first time I've seen a picture of the stop bolt that was used to block out 5th gear in the transmission when used with steel wheels.

    I've always heard of them but wasn't real sure that this was it but your probably right.

  4. 3 hours ago, SMOKER 1 said:

    I can't hardly believe you got that generator pulley to free up!  Never seen one that bad before.  Usually those split if you try to move them.

    jerry

    I didn't know what was going to happen but had the same experience on the water pump as well.  Didn't really expect to get them to work again just wanted to give it a try and see what would happen.  Soaked in Kroil for about 10 minutes and a small ball pen hammer, set screw came out with the lock nut.  Been sitting out doors sine the late 60's or early 70's which really blows my mind.

  5. On 7/30/2017 at 10:31 AM, Reichow7120 said:

    I definitely know that area very well. When we end up going to Godfreys we usually take Concord Rd down to 12 and of course then you are practically there then, so I know the area around that intersection quite well. 

    Riverside Inn, that's a name I haven't heard in a long time. I had forgotten about it until you mentioned it. 

     

    I actually live on the part of Concord Rd between Albion and Concord. Leave Concord like you are heading to Albion on Concord Rd (The technical name for this section of rd is Albion rd) Go around the dead mans curves near Schultz rd go about a half mile and that's my place with the big white barn. Its not the main farmstead we work out of but its a part of the operation none the less. 

    Sorry about hijacking your thread but I don't run into many people that know my neck of the woods on this forum to often .

     

    Ya, got to thinking about it earlier and I think Concord turns to Pulaski Rd at the Jackson County line too.  

    Here are a few more from this last weekend.  Block location is finished being drilled and only needs to have rivets heated and whacked.  Got the old rim seperated from the wheel and the seized brake petal freed from the shaft.  Not much but still moving the right direction.  Other items to deal with will be getting the radiator sent out for cleaning and any needed repair, generator and starter sent out for the same.

     

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  6. 8 hours ago, Reichow7120 said:

    Jonesville is definitely in my neck of the woods. My personal residence is only 17 miles from Jonesville. If you get on Concord Rd at the intersection of U.S. 12 near Godfreys and head north on it long enough, Between Concord and Albion you would pass my house. So I'm definitely familiar with the area. What little Deere business we do along our Krause and Hardi business goes through Godfreys. 

    Small world, my parents live less than four miles away from Godfreys, just a little east.  When you are heading out that way, you pass the Sterling Rd intersection at Spencer Farms (Big twin Harvestore silos that are real close to the road which is about 2 miles before you get to US 12.  My Dad worked at Concord Mfg when I was a kid so I've been out your way not to mention sub sandwiches and pizza from the Riverside Inn back in the day.  

    8 hours ago, okie18 said:

    Not just a Michigan thing, we've got a M with cement weights down here in Oklahoma.

    I'm guessing it was just the cheap and easy ballast in its day.

     Been awhile since I've been to Oklahoma.  Used to deliver travel trailers to a dealer in Oklahoma City years back.

  7. 22 hours ago, Reichow7120 said:

    Seeing that you are from Michigan and seeing those cement rear weights on your H has me now wondering if that was a Michigan thing. We have a set of those cement rear weights too. They were originally on the back of my Grandad's 1948 H. Dad and him eventually took them off the H and installed them on the back of our 460 after they took the chloride out of the tires. Your weights are the only others I've seen that looks like ours and they're both in Michigan so it just has me wondering.

     

    If I may ask. Where are you from in Michigan? I'm from around Albion.

    Not sure of the significance of the rear weight other than maybe just a cheap alternative to cast?  Maybe cement was surplus in the area because of Cement City being so close till it closed in 1961?  My project is in Jonesville at my parents farm, my family and I live in Augusta. 

    I see your Eagle listed.....I'm jealous.  LOL!  Used to drive a Volvo but always wanted an IH for hauling toys.

  8. Got a couple hours in over the weekend and got a few small things done.  I know the drive block issue has not been very popular but I was able to gather enough info that it should look close to correct and make me feel like there was an effort made at least.  Also mounted the front tires on the rims Saturday and it makes me wish I went with the 5.50x16 instead of the 6x16 even though there listed as an option.  Might just be that I've never seen period correct tires on the old rims( non adjustables), not sure?  Any ways, it really doesn't matter as long as it rolls, for now.  Firestone notched rib tires do look pretty cool as far as a classic look goes and appeared to be pretty weld made.

     

     

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  9. On 7/8/2017 at 7:11 PM, Diesel Doctor said:

    After talking with you at RPRU I had a lot of time to think on the way home.

    It had a heck of a time with an 806 LP many years ago. This one needed a zipper on the head as it would cut an exhaust valve like an acetylene torch hit it. These were the best LP exhaust valves that IH made and it was also hard on the stellite seats. Grind one batch of feed and it would take a valve out. It was always the same cylinder but I cannot remember which one. The timing was right and I moved on before it was cured.

    This tractor came up to a couple of old LP men before your issues here. They both agreed that cutting a valve is due to a lean mixture. LP is also a dry fuel with little to no lubrication in it like the old gas that contained lead. After forgetting about my 806 LP, your issues brought my troubles with one back to mind. I loved the pyrometer and years later, would have liked to put it on that LP to see what the temp was inside those cylinders. Would need to weld in a bung to do so.

    You were down on power when you ran yours on the dyno. That could be due to a lean mixture. I haven't followed close enough to see if the regulator was rebuilt and the mixer/carb. I assume it was. The mixture is adjustable on the carb/mixer. Maybe just increasing the fuel will bring your power up and maybe stabilize cylinder temps.

    I am not saying this is your issue. It is what I ran into and COULD be worth looking at when you get yours running again.  Good luck with the project and keep us up on what you find.

    It would be interesting to know what the individual exhaust/cylinder temps are and compare to a known unit. 

  10. Oh, forgot to take a picture of the lifters drowning in assembly lube as well as the cavities of the lifters were the push rods are set it.  Also forgot to get a picture of the lifter retainer bracket put in.  

     

    This picture here is of the spacer from the manifold.  For what ever reason the head studs are not the same size as the original.  Some where there was a change made.......

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