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Posts posted by fbh31118

  1. 23 hours ago, snoshoe said:

    Can't say that I have. I have seen the joint before. Some other application. Doesn't appear that the pins fit the holes. I can think of three possibilities. Ream the blocks and weld in oversize pins. Build up and remachine or replace with the more common ujoint.

    Just out of curiosity. Is this the 1940 H your handle indicates or is this a wartime tractor?

    LOL.  No it's not.  My handle is my mothers 1940 H at there farm.  Had to memorize it to gets parts one day and thought it would make a cool handle, 20 plus years ago.  The H in the picture is a 1943


    44 minutes ago, Diesel Doctor said:

    My 1941 has the same joint.

    I have never taken it apart but did remove some washers to tighten it.

    Mine has a grease zerk in one of the pins.

    Mine is slopped out enough that I need to do something but just trying to decide what I want to do with it.  I was curious what was on the inside but wanted to keep as much of it original as I can.  Not really worth the extra work but not awful either.  This one has the grease zerk in one end as well but I couldnt find the picture of it.


  2. 22 hours ago, nate said:

    I’ve heard of the Kirk balance plate before.  Were the kohler cranks that far out of balance from new?    Is he actually balancing each crank or do they all get the same plate?

    David Kirk has an entire write up on these engines and the mechanics behind it.  I know that there are some who don't agree and others who are convinced.  This crank was not individually balanced by anyone.  I will report back good or bad.  Guess I've done dumber things. 😆

  3. 10 hours ago, Mr. Plow said:

    Lots of good times along the way and the kids enjoyed it.   Emma is a freshman at Concordia University Mequon this year.....

    A few from the early days


    Our oldest Kathleen on the left.  Seems like one of the girls was Art A's daughter but not sure about the other.  






    • Like 1
  4. I will say that I have never had this engine apart before so I have no way of speaking to the condition of the parts that went into the engine or the level of attention that may or may not have gone into it. 😉  I have put an exhaust valve and a head gasket on it in years passed to I will pay special attention to the carb when I put it back together.  I plan on putting a balance plate in it and ball honing the cylinder with a stock set of rings and piston.  I also hope to recut the valve seats and have the valves ground if I can find someone to do them. 

    This is a thumping little engine and I love it!  It runs out of traction way before it runs out of power for us.  Can't wait to have this back together!






    • Like 1
  5. Block is empty and the components cleaned up.  Guessing it has a Kohler piston but the rod is anyone's guess.  At the minimum  it's looking like valve seats need to be recut, valves ground, piston, rings and possible .10 over bore.  Wrist pin and rod journal looked really good by eye.  Waiting to get some tools to measure the parts up and see what we've got.














    • Like 2
  6. 18 hours ago, Mr. Plow said:

    Have one torn down right now (case leak...I think).  Starts going back together tomorrow 😀

    Nice!  I'm hoping I got all of ours taken care of on this go around.

  7. 19 minutes ago, Mr. Plow said:

    She was due for a cylinder head servicing....that's for sure!!!!!

    Are you headed to PD in IL Brian?

    That's my plan.  Hoping I can get the 122 back together this month.  Lots of oil burning........

  8. 15 minutes ago, Mr. Plow said:

    She sounds nice and smooth!!!!

    It really does, had it apart 3 times to get it right though.  Several things I would do differently after getting all the way through it now.

  9. Got the engine torn down this weekend.  It was surprising how good the crank journal and con rod looked.  The piston skirts were a little rough looking and possibly the source of the oil blow by but will have to measure to know what's going on. There is zero ridge in this block so I'm leaning towards a possible valve guide issues or the cylinder out of round. I'm also wondering if I should even bother replacing the main bearings.  Here's a look at a few pictures I took this weekend.
















  10. On 9/5/2022 at 11:10 PM, Mr. Plow said:

    ...and I have a flywheel side crank seal to replace on an M18 too......just started slinging oil last mowing.  That one sucks.....pull engine and flywheel...clean up all of the tins......  At least it isn't pushed all the way out yet (not a big enough mess!!!)

    This is the seal that failed in Tammies tractor the first time we put a plow on it.   I set the plow up and she made one pass before it blew out on the headland.😁😆

  11. Got the wifes 782 our for a bath that it needed desperately and pulled the motor.  There is a leak coming from some where, so the block was caked with dirt pretty bad.  Also, fuel pump diaphram was failing and leaking into the block so a new fuel pump went in.  Started with removing the tin and repaired the starter, which had gotten loose, with a few washers and lock nuts.  Got a roll of gasket paper and cut out some new gaskets for the valve covers, which is where I hope the leaks were coming from.  Hoping to get the oil changed today and give it a test start to see what happens.  We went completely through this motor many years ago as our first 'learning' experience with engine rebuilding.  Pretty sure I had this motor apart 3 times to get is close to being right.😉😆  The plus side was taking the plugs out of the engine yesterday and seeing that they were completely clean.  It appears to have been running well other than the external oil leak and fuel pump failure.  I know, I should go electric on the pump but the mechanical has worked so well for so long.   One of the tires has a bad valve stem, which will be headed to the tire shop for a new stem and reload of beat juice, now that I think about it........ Hope to have it up and running with fresh fluids this next weekend.  The hydro fluid hasn't been changed in years but honestly it might have 20 hours on it at the most.  I haven't bought filters for the hydro in forever, hope Cub still makes them.😁 





    • Like 5
  12. 4 hours ago, DR.EVIL said:

    A buddy of mine and I did Dave Kirk style Killer Kohler rebuilds on 14 HP Kohler's for Cub Cadets. Mine's more "stock", buddy's was  much more radical, forged aftermarket piston, Midwest SuperCub forged bullet con-rod, his cam was way more radical too.  He put it in his #73 Red & White Cub Cadet which he took to several plow days, and it was a great running tractor and a Stunner on looks.  He's sold the tractor now, think it's in Southern Iowa.  My 14 hp had a stock +.010 piston & rings, the Alcoa Forged rod Dave Kirk describes in his Killer Kohler write-ups, I ported the block, and used a K361 Kohler cam, slightly longer duration but stock lift. Head was planed a bit.  I put a small diameter flywheel, backplate,, and blower housing on the engine so I could fit the 14 hp in my stock #72 frame. I had Dave Kirk install a set of his balance plates on my stock crankshaft. That 14 hp has just slightly less vibration than my stock 10 hp Kohler had. But it pulls like a locomotive!

      All that went on almost 20 years ago, finding a Alcoa rod would probably be the hardest, but I suspect Midwest SuperCub still has their billet rod available. I was shocked how expensive stock Kohler parts were back then, and I suspect they've had 4-5 price increases since.  I've used some Stens parts in a couple rebuilds in the past with excellent results. Con-rod, gaskets, valves, piston&rings.

       My experience has been the bigger Kohler engines run longer between rebuilds. The 7&8hp engines don't last long as mowing tractors. I got over 1400 hours on my rebuilt 10 hp that included LOTS of full load and Over-Loaded hours mowing foot high grass, blowing foot deep snow. A 12 hp drops right in where a 10 hp was, and a 14 hp needs a flywheel swap with a 12 hp.

    Good point, I had forgotten about MidWest Super Cub.  I'm really interested in the crank balancing and deleting the balance gears.  It's really been a solid motor the whole time we have run it but it's going through a lot of oil.  

  13. The time to get the Cubs out has finally arrived!!!  Our 122 has a very special story and is very important to our family and as such is going to be the next in line for a little tlc.  We plan on pulling the engine and tear it down to get measured up and get a rebuild started.  I would love to do a David Kirk style project but I'm not sure if the parts are even out there let alone for a standard rebuild.  What have you seen out there these days?    


    • Like 1
  14. On 4/22/2022 at 10:57 AM, Tonyinca said:

    I know what your saying , that is why I had them install pistons and complete engine because it’s always pilot error.  lol 

    my thing is these young guys just don’t understand older stuff and it’s getting very difficult to find competent people to work on old school .

    thank you for your input much appreciated 

    this is not end of world just frustrating trying to find the culprit ! 


    I feel your pain be it on a much smaller scale.  I have gone rounds with electrical rebuilds with my H project and still trying to eliminate them.  It's very frustrating to know enough to identify the problem but not have the equipment or experience to make the proper repair.  My original rebuilder went through my 3 brush generator and sent it back with a regulator instead of a cutout relay.  That was after explaining in person and on the telephone what I was expecting.  Disappointing to say the least.  

    Good luck Tony!  I know you'll get to the bottom of the problem one way or another.  

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