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Ian Beale

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Everything posted by Ian Beale

  1. Or go this way for the looks AND the alternator http://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cgi-bin/viewit.cgi?bd=ttalk&th=1832572
  2. True. And IIRC the tray is on springs. The top cover was steel all over with rubber pads over the 6 volt battery posts. Which you'll have to modify for a 12 volt battery
  3. Ours still had the ply base to the seat and I don't remember any trouble getting a 12 volt battery in, Take a big cushion just in case?
  4. KoO There is a printed IH parts manual on injection pumps. Now probably rarer than rocking horse output. We got one with our 1952 TD 6. It covers both single and twin plunger pumps, might even have covered Bosch but I'm not sure on that. The manual is long gone so I can't give you any reference numbers or even its official title.
  5. Dan Cranking works fine on the smaller ones. If the impulse is working and set right you just pull up without swinging the crank. I'll ask a friend whether he used to crank his TD 18 - if it is possible he likely would have.
  6. Looks like the top of the fuel switch lever showing also
  7. They were 12 volt from new. Re battery size. We don't have super cold winters here - down to maybe -10C sometimes. Under those conditions a pair of N70ZZ Toyota Landcruiser batteries is enough to start both a FA 10 dozer and an AC 45 grader. They're smaller in cca (around 700 ?) than an N89 from Cat which is a bit larger in size and heavier and up to around 1000 cca IIRC. From our experience the N70 ought to work fine in a TD 6. Ours got by on smaller ones when it had a battery but most of its life was cranked with no gene belt. One question - when you connect a pair of batteries in series does cca stay the same or is it additive?
  8. Before you try the batteries see if you have a crank handle. It lived just in front of the seat in the clips on the transmission. Pull the lever on the LHS of the aircleaner (photo 4) all the way down till it locks. That puts you on petrol cycle and low compression. They're easy to start with the crank when all is well so you should be able to use a single good size 12 volt battery - connected as original for earth. By the look of the grousers the tracks haven't done much work. There should be an engine hourmeter just in front of the magneto IIRC.
  9. Tanker That looks like the large button that we had so should be old type.
  10. Try http://www.lincolnindustrial.com/mommalincoln/Products/PumpsAccessories/Pumps/ManualBucketandFillerPumps.aspx Model 1275 sounds like the type. You don't need high pressure. This goes with "giant button" grease fittings. https://saeproducts.com/button-head-grease-fittings.html If you have a threaded plug the rollers are likely the modern oil lubricated type. This uses a screw-in tube to fill with oil. I am actually using the TD6 bucket with oil for the rollers of our FA 10.
  11. The roller grease that went with our 1952 TD6 was Mobilgrease 3L semi-fluid chassis lubricant - the dozer is gone but I still have the remains of a bucket of grease.. IIRC the seals didn't like being forced with the bucket lubricator. The "O" type greases seem to be the go around here now unless it is modern rollers that use engine oil.
  12. Called a floating ring seal in the Fiat Allis 10 manual. Seems pretty common in track rollers etc. IIRC there has been some discussion on these T340's on the construction forum - you might get more comments there
  13. IMO you might have the wrong approach Usual image is big, strong, square shoulders like Atlas holding up the things of the world. Alternative approach is shoulders like an arrowroot biscuit (egg shaped) so things slide off easily. Helmet still probably advisable.
  14. IIRC it looks like in your second photo your idler brackets ought to have bolt on plated at the bottom? Which ought to be shim adjustable. Our 1952 one didn't have them and there was a lot less below the track frame rail
  15. To curl the hair of North American readers The official version of what we get as a Dodge pickup starts at over $A 100,000 and the upmarket one is around $A 140,000 ($A = about $US0.75) http://www.carsguide.com.au/car-news/the-dodge-ram-is-coming-to-australia-31637 Stageone - if you can wangle a flatbed truck as a primary producer it isn't so bad. Our 4.5 tonner is cheaper to register than a Cruiser and (for some unknown reason) much cheaper than a Falcon ute
  16. From your starter picture - ours didn't have that gear on the rhs. The switch that I can see looks about the same basic arrangement. Ours was 1952 - what is yours?
  17. I hope yours works because I went to check and this switch seems to be in the "I put it somewhert file"
  18. Sounds like you're ok then. I wouldn't have the faintest on what a switch is realistically worth. And it maybe not what you need by the look of that linkage. Ours just had a rod with an eye that came through the firewall on the left of the air cleaner. The switch has a short arm with a hole in it iirc.
  19. I've got a never used one of those switches. Problem it is in Oz.
  20. Peter Ustinov's version more or less "A good accountant is a nice person that listens to your problems and costs you about as much as you save"
  21. Not elk but them too probably sooner than later From http://joannenova.com.au/2016/10/global-warming-may-cause-moose-to-freeze/ " Global warming may cause moose to freeze" You want yours prepacked?
  22. In the spirit of Jimmy Buffett and "3/4 Time" you could then start referring to "Prickly Time"
  23. RN You'll probably get various suggestions for repairing that manifold. One of which is dial up Lincoln's US site and check out Ferroweld.for exhausts. A neighbour has done some pretty fancy repairs with it. But it is bloody hard to find here these days.
  24. Oldtanker You're probably going to be told several times that TD 6's (in my experience) have the lever and brake system And the print size for this may be ack willy for unknown reasons
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