Jump to content

NHrediron

Members
  • Content Count

    219
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

1 Neutral

About NHrediron

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    "The Granite State"
  • Interests
    Farmin'! ..and other stuff
    1970 826D Hydro w/ Cab
    1974 4166
    1951 I-6 Trojan Loader
    1952 I-6 Trojan Loader
    1952 W-4
    1953 W-4
    1955 300 U
    1956 300 U
    1957 350 High Utility
    1958 350 U
    1966 JohnDeere 440 Skidder
    1971 Cub 154 LoBoy
    1977 Case 680 Loader/Backhoe military edition

Recent Profile Visitors

850 profile views
  1. What other fuel injection pumps will fit on an Nuess D358 ? Didn't the 786 and 886 use the D358? What pump/s are on them? Any reason either of those pumps won't fit on an 826 with the D358? Thanks for any input
  2. I got that fuel line down onto the brass over an inch. I'm thinking if I slosh hard enough to break that off, I've got bigger problems. $17 and ten minutes of time...done deal
  3. I found this piece of fuel line at my local Napa. I took the BB and spring out of the brass piece. With a little bit of light grinding on the small end of the brass check valve (now free flowing) I was able to firmly press the fuel line on. Maybe even pounded onto my wooden bench a few times. It's not going anywhere, and sealed up nicely. As you can see, I cut the top of the fuel line off at a good location, and was able to screw it up into the tank no problem, with that battery out. I appreciate coming across this thread. It helped me out tremendously, and I wanted to share a solution I came up with.
  4. Darnit, fuel coming out of crankcase breather on my 826 Hydro... Fortunately, I was able to shutdown within minutes. I haven't run it since, except to move it near the tools. My injection pump had just been rebuilt a couple years back due to a leaking seal at the pump head. Sounds like I'm fortunate that; 1. I didn't seize the head on my pump. 2. I didn't exit a rod out the side of the block. I have the check-valve out, as seen in the picture. I cannot blow through it from the big end. When I blow through from the small end I can get a slight hiss off and on. When I shake it, I can hear a rattle. It seems I should be able to blow through from the big end? I'm going to assume this is the culprit for creating the extra pressure causing seals to blow on my pump. I need this tractor up and running asap. Am I fine to just drill out the check valve and have an unrestricted flow in either direction? From reading this thread, it seems as though I should be okay?
  5. I only need one. It is the one single long stud at the left rear of the block, where the air cleaner bracket mounts to. All of the rest of the studs are about 7/16" shorter. If you have one, I'm happy to purchase.
  6. The C-169 in my 300 utility is exactly the same as the C-152 in the H. I have have a couple W-4s with the 152 and identical other than bore and cam. Same setup. One longer stud (6 1/2") at the South end of the block. All the rest are about 6 1/8". I appreciate you making the effort.
  7. I've had no luck locating a head stud for my 300. I need the one longer stud at the south end of the block, that also supports the air cleaner. Overall length is 6 1/2". 7/16" dia coarse thread one end and fine thread the other. Not Grainger nor Fastenal. None of my local shops. No luck on eBay or anywhere else on the web. Just can't seem to find one anywhere. Can anyone point me in the right direction?
  8. I don't have any useful information other than when I was just a wee boy in the 70's my dad had this same model on our dairy farm and it was bulletproof. Lot of neat memories learning to drive it and old pictures. Good luck
  9. Guy from another IH page gave me his 826 info: code: 0132 serial #: 010499 18.4x 34, dual pto, 2 sets of remotes, tilt wheel, differential lock, 6 bolt lugs front, gear drive, it was 2point fast hitch but chanded it to 3 point. (Since he didn't mention, I would assume open station, no cab.)
  10. Code: 0151 1970 Farmall 826, Hydrostatic Drive, 358 German Diesel, Diamond Cab, 1 remote, dual pto, 6 bolt 11L-15 fronts, 18.4-34 rear, 3 point, spring seat, fixed steering column. Build location: U Serial #: 010886. Came with loaded rear tires and no weight frames. Now has empty rears, multiple weight frames and 2 remotes.
  11. Red Tractor Fever, if you are willing to run a registry for 826s, I can help get it started. Perhaps, when you get time, start a new thread titled 826 registry. On an IH facebook group I participate in, there was recently a discussion about 826s. About 4 people, including myself, provided serial numbers, If you start a thread, I can connect at least that short handful of em. Best of luck with your search. Looks like you recently purchased the 826's. What was it that sparked your interest in them? We're the original owners of ours. We have several IHs, but the 826 diesel hydro is by far my favorite.
  12. I haven't noticed anyone keeping track of an 826 serial number registry.
  13. The 300 utility I split apart, mentioned in previous post ^ I had sent the head out to a local machine shop with a brand new set of valves with it. In the meantime, I lightly emery clothed the rod journals. Just gave them a light shine as they are in great shape, according to the mic. The mains are fine as is. Next step is a light hone on the cylinders. There was no reason to re-sleeve as virtually no ring groove/ridge. Then clean the firecrater pistons up, and install the new rings. Clean the block up nice, install new rear main seal, slide the pistons into placeā€¦ I don't need to tell you guys this, you all know. It's just plain ol' fun is all. I picked the head up today. It magnafluxed out to be fine. They had to take .010" off to make it true. I supplied all new valves, and it came back with a nice 3 angle valve job, all assembled. It's wrapped in plastic and as good as new. There really is no time-frame to this project, as I'm not in need of the tractor right away. I'm not looking to make a show tractor, just a good running utility that'll get used frequently like it's brothers I have listed in my signature. The tractor was abandoned in a field behind a barn about 3 hrs from me. It had been in the same spot for so long the rims were below ground level. It had a loader on it with a tip bucket. I had to cut a 3" tree down between the loader arms to move the tractor onto my trailer. The seller said it had been in that spot for 12 years. I got the whole unit for $900. I sold the loader off it for $300. So now only $600 plus my time to get it to it's new home. I'll have another grand into it by the time I have her mobile. Oh yeah, I picked up a power steering unit and flow control valve for $650. So let me think, $600 tractor, $1000 parts, $650 power steering = $2250. Plus another $250 for unforeseen items. In the end, for $2500 I'll have myself a mint running 1955 300u with power steering, TA, IPTO, fasthitch, and 2 more remotes. I plan on painting everything but the tins. It has all the original emblems, including t/a emblems. I'm going to leave the tinwork all rusty to make it have that "ratrod" look, but it'll all be painted underneath.
  14. My 1953 McCormick W-4. Serial #33111. I purchased it a couple years ago. It had horrible tinwork, a spun bearing, a cracked head, a ruined camshaft and cam gear. I had a C-169 I was able to rob the crank from. I had it turned down to make the journals the exact standard size of the C-152 in this W4 (the stroke is the same). I was also able to use a rod, the cam, cam gear, and head off the old seized C-169. I could go on and on about the rest I had to do, but the picture gives you the idea. I added all the wheel weights as I use this tractor to pull a 1 cord wood scoot. The C-169 cam seemed to add some torque and rpm. My dad has a W-4 also, and the difference is noticeable. These little tractors are beasts. Currently just split apart a 300u. Head is at local machine shop now. Looking forward to this new project!
×
×
  • Create New...