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Wisconsin Ron

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Posts posted by Wisconsin Ron

  1. I run a later 1680 with long sieve. It has standard rotor. The front concave is small wire with every other wire removed. The middle and rear are large wire with every other removed. Run cover plates on front and half of the middle concave. Install slotted grates on account of baling straw. It does a nice job with that setup. Always picked up swaths, never did any direct so that might be different ballgame. Also you know how farming goes, what works for one guy might not work for the next. Forgot to mention did spring wheat for few years with same setup also and that was good too. 

  2. Can that clevis be made new cheaper than what CNH is asking nowadays? We run six of that style tractor on farm and our stock of brake clevises are getting a little low. Is any aftermarket jobbers putting them out? Maybe welding them like fellas in video hold up also. Personally never tried but might have to start. Share your knowledge and opinions. Thanks

  3. 1 hour ago, 460 said:

    Yes fill sand to level and dirt for final grade.

    Yes walls a 10'6 with the scissor truss I am within a few inches on the hoist tower height of the planned 13'6" Atlas 10K hoist height.  Where I use to work that is what we had Atlas hoists and before I left I drew it up in CAD.  The township has a height restriction of 16' center of gamble so I am right at that target.


    Different areas have different soil and weather conditions. I feel like frost not much issue where you at. Where I am it is wise to remove black dirt down to hardpan then put fill down usually a dense fill with sand on top. Always build high otherwise future landscaping or driveway maintenance has water running towards building. I feel bad for you to have restrictions like height restrictions and such in your area.

  4. 11 minutes ago, 460 said:

    I am in the process of getting ready to break ground on a 40x40 detached garage.   It took me about a year and a half working on and off clear cutting the site of mostly red oaks, some hickory and cherry.  20221206_100539.thumb.jpg.f86aa71b577ea176f075932dabae1900.jpgI am around $40-60 Sq. Ft.  I plan to do poured short walls on a footings, heated floor, 2x6 walls with 3' of cultured stone plus vinyl, steel metal roof no gutters, bathroom, hoist, scissor trusses, overhead storage over the bathroom area.

    I am subbing all the work myself.  Doing my own prints myself, working with a builder as a adviser.  Amish will frame and do most work besides cement.  I want the building super tight so no money spared on insulated doors, cement insulation etc.  I will do interior spray insulation sometime later when I recover from the initial cost of the building/flat work.

    As I learned on here I will probably try to put steel framing in the floor for pulling or welding on along with the already planned floor drains.  I want the floor drains to be able to handle me power washing a vehicle on the hoist.



    Are you gonna bring in some fill? Keep in mind the hoist height when planning building. Some are awfully tall.

  5. They are very scarce in my area and the few there are are extremely overworked. Now the FDA is making more meds prescription only to make things worse. I just curious if large animal/livestock vets are scarce all over or just a regional thing?

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  6. 2 hours ago, 2+2love said:

    We don't report anything to the USDA no crop insurance no farm programs nothing. My dad always says we don't need any government welfare. Different folks different strokes I guess. Somehow we make it work. But sometimes it makes me think how many farmers could make it work if they didn't receive these payments? 

    Just out of curiosity do you know what agency oversees the certified organic farmers for them to maintain their certified status?  

  7. 4 hours ago, Takn4aFool said:

    you mean like 2 years ago when there must have been a dozen building collapses within about 10 miles of me

    Yep. I hate seeing that happen to people. Usually the trusses are bare minimum heft and spacing is maxed out also. I don't know how snow works in original posters area. Just want them to keep it in mind when planning a build. Probably get away with it but all it takes is the one freak snow situation to come and bring it down. 

  8. 10 minutes ago, FarmerFixEmUp said:

    Is that the cleaning fan? Came apart?  

    Yes it is. I think it had to do with the last six to rows of the field which were kinda deep with snow. Probably been cheaper to leave to wildlife. 


    1 hour ago, ksfarmdude said:

    I just noticed his fenders don't have the additional bracket that bolts onto the final drive housing My 656 fenders have that extra bracket that keeps the fenders from shaking too much


    I believe it looks like 666 has the larger platform the fenders mount to to keep them from shaking. I know 686s do for sure. Eventually the platform can crack and fenders will start to wobble. 

  10. 59 minutes ago, JT706 said:

    IH could’ve beefed up the PTO drive in their tractors. I have a 4186 that never had anything hooked to the PTO but at a clutch replacement at 3000 hours the PTO drive shaft splines were almost wore off like you’d used the PTO every day 

    I not sure on 4186 but 706 on up drive hydraulics off them splines also. I imagine the steering taxes them splines on 4186 some. I could be wrong though. 

  11. I grew up hearing older generations talk about delco plants and carbide/acetylene gas plants for lighting. I have seen alot of delco plants or evidence of them in old farmsteads. I just curious if anybody seen or are familiar with the carbide plants?

  12. Probably only puts 100 amp load max on battery. Not enough for cars, trucks, or tractors. If you have alot of rigs with batteries in them try to think about finding a 500 amp or bigger. I know harbor freight had a 500 which saved me alot of grief after I got fed up with the 100 style. Now gotta 1000 off fleabay also for 6,12, and 24 volt. In my opinion you need to draw more than 100 amps unless you testing motorcycle, atv, snowmobile,or garden tractor batteries. 

  13. 10 hours ago, Jacka said:

    I don't know one from harbor freight,has a switch u push for load  and otherwise you just read the guages for alternator charging ans battery voltage 


  14. 32 minutes ago, Jacka said:

    Since we are on this topic and I am in the winter battery changing,switching,consolidating(I will hook two 12volts in tandem either group 31s or others for must start winter machines)what is the best way and best tool to check for low or batteries with a bad cell. I have load tester,battery/alternator tool.The price of everything is crazy and just looking to be smart with money.Do I charge battery for x amount of hours ,let batteries sit for X amount of time and then test.How many times do I load test it ,is it supposed to drop power between each test?  I have batteries that will start fine in warm weather and winter it's a no go.I have the the two 3E  batteries in tractors and one might be weak and other not.Instead of buying two new ones if one is only bad I like to be able to combine two from different tractors for one machine and only have to buy one set for another.Its just a crap shoot to figure out sometimes and I sure don't want to send a battery back for just a core charge, spend money on a new one only to have that battery have more useful life to it.

    Just out of curiosity what type of load tester do you use for testing your batteries?

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