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Wisconsin Ron

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Posts posted by Wisconsin Ron

  1. 10 minutes ago, FarmerFixEmUp said:

    Is that the cleaning fan? Came apart?  

    Yes it is. I think it had to do with the last six to rows of the field which were kinda deep with snow. Probably been cheaper to leave to wildlife. 

  2.  

    1 hour ago, ksfarmdude said:

    I just noticed his fenders don't have the additional bracket that bolts onto the final drive housing My 656 fenders have that extra bracket that keeps the fenders from shaking too much

    IMG_20221231_080338291.jpg

    I believe it looks like 666 has the larger platform the fenders mount to to keep them from shaking. I know 686s do for sure. Eventually the platform can crack and fenders will start to wobble. 

  3. 59 minutes ago, JT706 said:

    IH could’ve beefed up the PTO drive in their tractors. I have a 4186 that never had anything hooked to the PTO but at a clutch replacement at 3000 hours the PTO drive shaft splines were almost wore off like you’d used the PTO every day 

    I not sure on 4186 but 706 on up drive hydraulics off them splines also. I imagine the steering taxes them splines on 4186 some. I could be wrong though. 

  4. I grew up hearing older generations talk about delco plants and carbide/acetylene gas plants for lighting. I have seen alot of delco plants or evidence of them in old farmsteads. I just curious if anybody seen or are familiar with the carbide plants?

  5. Probably only puts 100 amp load max on battery. Not enough for cars, trucks, or tractors. If you have alot of rigs with batteries in them try to think about finding a 500 amp or bigger. I know harbor freight had a 500 which saved me alot of grief after I got fed up with the 100 style. Now gotta 1000 off fleabay also for 6,12, and 24 volt. In my opinion you need to draw more than 100 amps unless you testing motorcycle, atv, snowmobile,or garden tractor batteries. 

  6. 10 hours ago, Jacka said:

    I don't know one from harbor freight,has a switch u push for load  and otherwise you just read the guages for alternator charging ans battery voltage 

     

  7. 32 minutes ago, Jacka said:

    Since we are on this topic and I am in the winter battery changing,switching,consolidating(I will hook two 12volts in tandem either group 31s or others for must start winter machines)what is the best way and best tool to check for low or batteries with a bad cell. I have load tester,battery/alternator tool.The price of everything is crazy and just looking to be smart with money.Do I charge battery for x amount of hours ,let batteries sit for X amount of time and then test.How many times do I load test it ,is it supposed to drop power between each test?  I have batteries that will start fine in warm weather and winter it's a no go.I have the the two 3E  batteries in tractors and one might be weak and other not.Instead of buying two new ones if one is only bad I like to be able to combine two from different tractors for one machine and only have to buy one set for another.Its just a crap shoot to figure out sometimes and I sure don't want to send a battery back for just a core charge, spend money on a new one only to have that battery have more useful life to it.

    Just out of curiosity what type of load tester do you use for testing your batteries?

  8. Be careful there some shoddy aftermarket rubber torsion springs out there. Flip them over and lay a straight edge across them. Make sure the distance from straight edge to pipe where brass bushing goes in is the same. If distance is shorter than original it will not go together. We have seven of them style seat suspensions we keep going. Just did one week ago. Had 4 rubbers on shelf and they not right. Had to grind it down to fit. Other two going back to where they came from. Save your old one just for measuring purposes.

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