Wisconsin Ron
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Posts posted by Wisconsin Ron
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Check fluids first and make sure it runs before he invest in fresh fluids and filters. Probably be wise to crack oil plug a little before attempting to crank it over to check for coolant in oil. Then the owner know more about what he has. That's pretty much how I'd start. If everything seems good I'd change engine oil when warm.
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I had one alternator do that on account of bad brushes. I wonder if 5288 be late enough built that they run 12si alternators? They run a tad bit cooler than a 10si. Both normally simple and reliable alternators.
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6 hours ago, mike656 said:
Is the rear end on a 686 farmall heavier duty than a 656 farmall?
I 99% sure it isn't any heavier. Own one 656 and four 686 and they seem the same. Also own 544 and rear seems the same except for the brakes are smaller.
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20 hours ago, Lazy WP said:
I bought a 56 a few years ago for $300? The dogs in the hub had failed and they made it a solid drive axle. Seems to work ok. I raked maybe 3 acres with it since I got it and it picked up ok. Mine is only a 4 bar, but has the ability to be a 5 bar, the holes are there. If I was dealing with much fine grass, I’d make sure to get a 5 bar rake
I have heard that 4 bar NH56 rakes exist but have never seen one. Could somebody that owns one post a picture.
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I pretty sure blocks are the same.
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I think you have to change the drives to sidehill style to make them run on a red. At least we did on our 1680. 540 spline couplers click right on the hex of the combine.
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Pretty sure we will be picking and cribbing ear corn later this fall. Do every year we get ripe corn and it still standing decent. Run a Deere 300 with 243 head.
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How full did you have it before you started?
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Yes four straight flat stock type bars on rotor in grate section. At least that is it on our standard rotor 1680.
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I thought they had a gold 1026 listed on today's multiple location auction? I looked through the listing about a week ago.
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I believe alot of parts for that specific kohler are no longer available.
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You should wait for the rings. Check that rubber elbow between turbo and air cleaner over real well. They can develop cracks. I think they may be no longer available.
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Yes we installed one on our farmall 544.
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A D466 in a 3688 should be pretty easily done. I think 3488s run a d466. A dt466 from combine be a little trickier I imagine cooling and exhaust wise. Didn't some combines run a dti466? Would that complicate things further?
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Run an 800, two 1060s and a 1085 over here. Automax was a joke of an option. Both 1060s have it. Was lucky enough to find a 1085 without it. Some parts are getting scarce. Some available ones are getting way too high.
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Had a c doing that. Couldn't locate any intake leaks. Had to have governor rebuilt.
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I've been advised before that moisture contamination can cause fiber discs in pto to deteriorate. Something to keep in mind
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I've heard 1000 ptos exist but rare. Wasn't there a belt pulley option also or was that separate unit that bolted over existing pto?
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I not familiar with what engine in crawler but on 1066 they fairly easy to time. If crawler has same style engine and pump they probably pretty easy too as long as you can get to it and see timing marks. If you have inline pumps in not sure on them.
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Between yesterday afternoon/evening and today we are at an inch in country fest area. Much needed but need more.
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I honestly don't know. I imagine cost for pump replacement. Bought a 3688 that was converted. Wish it wasn't. I would rather had the pph still in it. You can get new aftermarket gear pumps pretty reasonable and gonna pay alot for a reman pph pump and they want good core back with the pph. Had to replace the pph pump in 3788 once and it wasn't a big job.
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Spin on hyd filter by oil pan usually is the pph. The tractor could be converted to gear pump but still have that spin on filter also.
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I think brake wear and plugged air filter are the yellow ones.
Swapping block style steering stud for ball joint style
in Technical IH Talk
Posted
You can still use the old style block cylinder and new style tie rod end if you are willing to grind new notches in your tie rods.