1955farmall400

I’m at the point where I’m ready for front tires for my 666 that I recently swapped over to a narrow front. What size tires are you guys running on your similar size narrow front tractors? Id like to run 7.50-16’s as I already have a new set of 16x6 wheels but I’m unsure if they’ll clear. I’m running 18.4-38’s on the rear

Thank you I got everything removed last night. Went pretty smoothly except for getting the left side arm off the rockshaft, ended up having to cut the arm so the rockshaft could slide out because it wouldn’t come off the splines even with heat. Everything besides that arm came out intact so I may considering selling the stuff later down the road. It doesn’t look very fun to reassemble so I highly doubt I’ll ever use any of it again

I’m removing it to shed weight as I’m making it a pulling tractor. I’d like to keep the factory draft control housing but gut all the internals from it

How exactly does the 3pt rockshaft get removed on these small frame tractors? Does the top cover need to be pulled? I have all the draft sensing linkage already removed from inside the rear end if it makes a difference

I may just put it back on then. Now would I still need the suction tube that connects to the bottom of the draft control housing? I’m not sure if it’s linked to the steering somehow

I have a 666 puller project that im working on trying to eliminate all the rear hydraulics on. My question is can I remove this rubber line without affecting my steering? It runs from a T in the steering line to the manifold port block on the draft control housing

Have a set of 14.9 Titan Hi Tractions on mine and love them! I swear they could climb up a tree without breaking traction, especially after a little bit of road wear on them! Makes my stock 400 very competitive against a lot bigger tractors in the 7500 lb class as well

Looks great! I think this is the route I’ll be going

I’m assuming it was a stock Cummins manifold? If so how much grinding did it take to make fit? I’m wondering because I had guys say to use a 2 piece style to help align the ports better and they require less grinding, problem is they’re like $500 new and I can get a used factory one for next to nothing

I can’t speak for overheating since I haven’t actually ran the tractor yet and I’ll be using it just for pulling so I doubt it’ll get hot enough to cause an issue, but I did switch to an 8 fin impeller water pump from a turbocharged engine for added precaution. And as far as manifolds there several different ways to go about it. You can either modify your existing manifold, use a 5.9 cummins manifold with some slight modifications , or buy a billet steel one from Leamans. I think I’ll be going the Cummins route.

Thanks Danny! I forgot to mention that I have a steel flywheel and triple disc kit

I’ve been hearing good things about them! Would you recommend the S252 or the S257 and with what size housing?

What turbo would work best for a 666 farm stock puller? Tractor has a D360 with oilers and I’ll be running a maxed out 10mm pump from a friends 1066. Also there is no rpm limit on the classes I plan to run if that makes any difference.

I’m looking to upgrade the pump on my 666 that I plan to use for pulling and I saw a reasonably priced one pop up on marketplace that claims to be off a 766 but I read that all the non turbo tractors came with a 9mm pump head vs a 10mm head like the turbo tractors. I noticed that pump has “6a-100a” on the serial tag but my original 666 pump has “6a-90a” on its tag. Do these numbers indicate what size the head is?

Absolute