ksfarmdude
-
Posts
4,012 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Everything posted by ksfarmdude
-
You'll know if the splines are bad believe you me it will sound like a jack hammer lol I've replaced Many No fun at ALL the actuator link pin inside the control valve may have dropped out ,Has the Hydro been repaired recently
-
X2 no heat pull it on cold with light oil can't imagine running the risk ruining the seal also from extreme temps
-
What model is the tractor ? serial # usually found on the rear frame casting gotta start there first Engine serial numbers as far as I know tell you nothing
-
Do you have other tractors available preferably 100 hp + Glenco stuff I know is heavy for sure -
8 row you say ? whats it weigh ? does the front end get light too ? Is it possible your exceeding the lift weight the tractor is capable of lifting? some of those cultivators look pretty heavy
-
Check hydraulic pump for the reel there's a solenoid that also energizes when the feeder house switch is on pretty simple setup
-
Mark which parts come from which hole , get a new quality camshaft with lifters new cam bearings check bearing clearance and anything that looks odd new oil pump and you should be golden
-
If its just bearings your needing try a commercial bearing business if its a baler exclusive part then your about down to a salvage baler for parts or machine shop repair
-
Not sure you could get 1000 rpm pto equipped with a T/A also
-
I eliminated the underhood muffler On My 1086 years ago to get rid off excessive heat But I went with a topside Muffler like the 66 series used
-
Pics would help to determine the shape of your tractor also Just sayin
-
Nope
-
Sweet
-
Everything can be replaced outboard
-
Cams are a big issue on those engines I know from experience when you start breaking rocker arms the cam is shot
-
Somethings in a bind disconnect the drive turn it over by hand checking for hard spots , Also the rubber bushings on the arms need to be tightened in mid stroke
-
That's splitting hairs lol most that achieves is a gallon more or less the dipstick tubes on 86 series tractors never change unless they have been damaged or taken out for some reason or the dipstick itself has been changed , I run them overfull 3-5 gallon Axle bearings have always been problems on them preload adjustment is very critical on them axle bearings I jack mine up and check for axle movement every so often
-
Doubt you'll get 5 buckets of oil out unless he's running it overfull which I do , I think 24 gallon is the recommended amount on them
-
I was able to get the shafts years ago plus the plates from parker hanafin they were the company that produced them pumps for IH
-
I'd be checking the old engine out with a fine tooth comb as to why it put daylight thru the side
-
I see what your saying , You would have thought is would make better sense having an O-ring groove place on the shoulder of the retainer instead of where the shims set
-
Everyone has there own opinions and requirements on engine overhauls all I'm saying if its just and old tractor that needs a new life there's no need to go overboard if you have good parts (which is getting hard to find) and you have the know-how and skill to do it yourself , you can rebuild an engine cheaper than you think
-
Wow you must think every overhaul needs the full spectrum of attention its not rocket science if you know how to do measurements and inspect parts , its not a tractor that's going to be plowing all day I've done engines without those bells and whistles your talking about that have went many more thousands of hours , If you feel you need to spend 3 or 4 thousand more on an old tractor go for it , Your odd are still better than a reman
-
I've rebulit several of the piston pumps before they are simple I have one around here now that needs rebuilt
