ksfarmdude
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Posts posted by ksfarmdude
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20 hours ago, davo727 said:
Hey like to find out what else could be used if needed to swap in place of neuss d239. Diesel or gas doesnt matter. Even 6 cylinder alternative on the 674 since theres no frame or anything in the way. My ( 574 ) is actually a 250A backhoe so only a 4 cylinder would be feasible. Diesel would need to be something with an easily serviced and available injection pump.
Thanks.
Forget 6 cylinder just isn't gonna happen ,Go with the same family of four cylinder engines unless you want to pull your hair out
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I'd take off the big one's No need to have that much weight for that old tractor unless your really pulling it just puts more rolling resistance on the transmission and brakes
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Go by Gauge manifold pressures taking ambient temp into consideration I usually charge the old systems (134a) according to lowside pressure readings and Duct air temp with fan on high
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2 minutes ago, mader656 said:
Im thinking the seals on the injection pump are leaking....from sitting for three years still runs and starts good can the seals be changed at home or do i need a shop to do it? Just had the return line off and no crud.... just making oil about a quart in 8 hours...
I'd have an injection shop do it , but its your call
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Cut off a grade 8 bolt the right length and run a clamp around it if neccesary probably last time it will need repaired
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Sounds like a T/A issue pressure checks are in order either the sealing rings on the T/A unit are bad or sprag clutch is out also
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13 minutes ago, 1566Hog said:
That’s not a fun sound and feel when a bolt like that bolt breaks! I was rebuilding the engine of a Ford Fairlane about 20 years ago for a friend I was working with. Rolled in all new bearings. Borrowed a torque wrench from the guy we were working for (harvest run in KS, so we didn’t have any of our own tools with us.) Ended up snapping a main bearing bolt. Felt like an idiot, but then I broke a second one!!!!! At this point, I’m wondering what one earth is going on. Found out the torque wrench was way off. Luckily Ford had an engine plant in Hutchinson, KS where we were, and the guy we were working for knew a couple employees. He hooked us up with 2 more bolts. I was real nervous, but real cautious torquing the rest. I figured I better find a different torque wrench when I did the rest. Still running 20 years later. 😀
That brings back a memory I had as a yonger fellar I had a 54 yr chevy medium duty truck we used for hauling hay years ago I replaced all the bearings mains and rods and only used a breaker bar to tighten the cap bolts using my best guess for torquing them it ran forever til the truck itself wore out
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I would make sure bearings are correct and get all new rod bolts from another source
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I could buy them all day long at Abilene Machine and they are OEM to boot
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First what Ft Lb are you torquing them too ? we need all the information to get a clearer picture
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23 minutes ago, Wi Ih said:
Is anybody ever ran a different fluid that will not suck up moisture ?
Just use high quality brake fluid and change it occasionally as suggested above I know very few change or even think about changing brake fluid but it does extend the life of things only other issue with them brakes is the linings getting oil on them or getting very hot they go away fast I take them apart to clean and lube the expander plates and adjust if you want the brake to last on them they got to be serviced I realize they maybe aren't as important as a tractors brakes but they do come in handy
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Sure looks like all cylinders are on the same line to me and anytime you have an additional cylinder its naturally going to lift slower because it displaces more oil but for the accumulator to work properly they all must be on the same line
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Must be on the later combines because 1400 series combines have all cylinders from the accumulator for header float Same on Deere's too
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8 minutes ago, Geoff_in_MN said:
Yes hydro. Yes it comes on and lately just constant. I'm thinking just a light to indicate key "on". It has an add-on fuse holder as well.
Ahhhh Hydro well you didn't disclose that info its maybe the charge pressure light
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Looks like an add-on never seen a light in that spot before Does it ever come on?
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10 minutes ago, HydroTek said:
That 3rd cylinder was connected to the accumulator , to act as a spring
The accumulator is connected to all cylinders at least it is on my 1400 series combine and Deere's
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I never recommend using soap Just good clean water til it runs clear nothing special then A good quality antifreeze and conditioner , I change and flush the cooling System about every 3 yrs been doing it all my life on tractors of all ages never ever had a cavitation problem
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1 minute ago, Young mechanic said:
There's just a lot of crappy rust looking stuff in the motor would like to clean it up
Drain it flush it out of every hole and radiator , start with new coolant and add conditioner
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You can put additives in the system for cavatiation problems Why buy another high priced fllter ? if guys service the cooling system more regular you'd never have a problem to begin with I've seen these older tractors with antifreeze so old in looks like chocolate milk ,There's your problem
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I am shocked at the NO Brakes- No Sweat-No Need comments from everyone I use brakes on them combines alot to aid in shifting the transmission to setting the parking brake Its a safety issue to boot
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It will if the oil level is low in that area if there's any pump issues it can cause any type of problem I would suggest he do pressure tests plus see what flow he has and check for air bubbles if there's air present Never seen the oil filter plate cause problems anyone with mechanical skill can change the filter and install a new gasket and check for a leak doesn't take a rocket scientist to figure that one out
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that creates an obvious leak if oil level is correct I'd pull the pump and check for bolts and Oring the bolts can be checked for tightness on the outside near the step
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23 minutes ago, Young mechanic said:
Has anyone put or seen a coolant filter on a d-239?
Why do you think you need one?
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Got to have working brakes its a must if it ever comes out of gear on a hill you'll be looking for something cheap to hit I won't run a combine without brakes I keep mine fixed up as needed brake cylinders linings Master cylinder have have been replaced thru the years The parking brake won't work either until you have at least the left brake working
Rain Caps
in Technical IH Talk
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Go to John deere I get mine there