Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by ksfarmdude

  1. Go to John deere I get mine there
  2. Forget 6 cylinder just isn't gonna happen ,Go with the same family of four cylinder engines unless you want to pull your hair out
  3. I'd take off the big one's No need to have that much weight for that old tractor unless your really pulling it just puts more rolling resistance on the transmission and brakes
  4. Go by Gauge manifold pressures taking ambient temp into consideration I usually charge the old systems (134a) according to lowside pressure readings and Duct air temp with fan on high
  5. I'd have an injection shop do it , but its your call
  6. Cut off a grade 8 bolt the right length and run a clamp around it if neccesary probably last time it will need repaired
  7. Sounds like a T/A issue pressure checks are in order either the sealing rings on the T/A unit are bad or sprag clutch is out also
  8. That brings back a memory I had as a yonger fellar I had a 54 yr chevy medium duty truck we used for hauling hay years ago I replaced all the bearings mains and rods and only used a breaker bar to tighten the cap bolts using my best guess for torquing them it ran forever til the truck itself wore out
  9. I would make sure bearings are correct and get all new rod bolts from another source
  10. I could buy them all day long at Abilene Machine and they are OEM to boot
  11. First what Ft Lb are you torquing them too ? we need all the information to get a clearer picture
  12. Just use high quality brake fluid and change it occasionally as suggested above I know very few change or even think about changing brake fluid but it does extend the life of things only other issue with them brakes is the linings getting oil on them or getting very hot they go away fast I take them apart to clean and lube the expander plates and adjust if you want the brake to last on them they got to be serviced I realize they maybe aren't as important as a tractors brakes but they do come in handy
  13. Sure looks like all cylinders are on the same line to me and anytime you have an additional cylinder its naturally going to lift slower because it displaces more oil but for the accumulator to work properly they all must be on the same line
  14. Must be on the later combines because 1400 series combines have all cylinders from the accumulator for header float Same on Deere's too
  15. Ahhhh Hydro well you didn't disclose that info its maybe the charge pressure light
  16. Looks like an add-on never seen a light in that spot before Does it ever come on?
  17. The accumulator is connected to all cylinders at least it is on my 1400 series combine and Deere's
  18. I never recommend using soap Just good clean water til it runs clear nothing special then A good quality antifreeze and conditioner , I change and flush the cooling System about every 3 yrs been doing it all my life on tractors of all ages never ever had a cavitation problem
  19. Drain it flush it out of every hole and radiator , start with new coolant and add conditioner
  20. You can put additives in the system for cavatiation problems Why buy another high priced fllter ? if guys service the cooling system more regular you'd never have a problem to begin with I've seen these older tractors with antifreeze so old in looks like chocolate milk ,There's your problem
  21. I am shocked at the NO Brakes- No Sweat-No Need comments from everyone I use brakes on them combines alot to aid in shifting the transmission to setting the parking brake Its a safety issue to boot
  22. It will if the oil level is low in that area if there's any pump issues it can cause any type of problem I would suggest he do pressure tests plus see what flow he has and check for air bubbles if there's air present Never seen the oil filter plate cause problems anyone with mechanical skill can change the filter and install a new gasket and check for a leak doesn't take a rocket scientist to figure that one out
  23. that creates an obvious leak if oil level is correct I'd pull the pump and check for bolts and Oring the bolts can be checked for tightness on the outside near the step
  24. Why do you think you need one?
  25. Got to have working brakes its a must if it ever comes out of gear on a hill you'll be looking for something cheap to hit I won't run a combine without brakes I keep mine fixed up as needed brake cylinders linings Master cylinder have have been replaced thru the years The parking brake won't work either until you have at least the left brake working
  • Create New...