Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by ksfarmdude

  1. I'm thinking they are different than standard cast centers .I'd go with steel disc wheels you'd have to change tire sizes but since your replacing tires its cheaper
  2. That seal in similar to the one on the input shaft on the pump they are a two piece ring a special tool is nice But i have put them in with other means and had no problem too get the housing very clean and shaft too use clean oil on the O-Rings and it will slip right in with out any problem then install snap ring
  3. The AHC control can be turned off to check that
  4. I would be pulling the header raise valve out and inspecting all the parts and poppet valves seats and springs
  5. My 1460 does that also when you turn the steering wheel makes it kinda tough when hooking up to a header in tight places because you have to keep lowering the feeder house all the time , I think it is getting feedback thru the steering return somehow it only does it when there's no weight on the feeder house thou
  6. Lots of things to check first oil condition , fill level , filter condition , does the other hydraulics work ok? check for a hard turning spindle or bad pivot bearing then check pressure maybe weak pump also
  7. ksfarmdude


    All you'll find for it is reliance engine parts
  8. Alternator crapped out but do a voltmeter check also
  9. I usually pull those switches out of a savage combine
  10. Spray them with penatrating fluid and get tough on them they will either twist off or shut off
  11. We still run a 7720 JD every year along with the newer machines its rock solid reliable Bin sample so clean on soybeans or wheat you can almost plant it so no complaints from me on those combines
  12. Those bolt on fingers things are a joke , I updated headers years ago to full finger retractable fingers and that made a difference of day and night
  13. I've had three of the splined couplers strip out thru the years you'll know when that happens it make a loud grinding noise and usually requires a new hydro shaft as well
  14. Has the hydro been worked on recently ? I would look at the Hydro servo control valve that moves the swash plate on the pump assuming its an eaton hydro I've seen them link pins come out
  15. My 1460 has always had good brakes I service them every few years and make sure they work the left brake is a little grabby but that's ok I use the right brake for slowing down the most since it works smoother
  16. I live 6 miles from Abilene machine occasionally buy their after market parts if the price is much cheaper than CaseIH and the quality is still good sometimes I buy good used OEM too depending on the part
  17. They fit all 400 series engines they are very common even Napa stocks them all the time
  18. Sounds like your Dealer is blowing smoke up your tailpipe they have pricing on all parts as for the restocking fee that varies alot from dealer to dealer
  19. I get them thru Case IH still
  20. Beginning to sounds like a weak pump issue
  21. I've never had brake problems on my 7720 until the hired help left the park brake on using it in the field and fried the brakes wheel cylinders and even the transmission seals were burned out of it I was very unhappy to say the least I smelled the burned linings when I was in the other combine downwind even took two days to round up parts and get everything fixed back up so it could be back in the field
  22. I know you can't on the 560's or anything with intergral hydraulic systems I use 80-90w in my super M still
  23. I always wondered about that too all our deeres use 80-90w gear lube I don't see why it wouldn't work in IH finals that had Hytran
  • Create New...