ksfarmdude

In my area IH was doing great until the rear ends started flying out of the 560's as soon as they hit the fields at the time Deere as coming out with the 3010- 4010 series tractors and that started the downfall of IH around here Deere kept getting bigger and the IH dealers were dwindling we stayed IH for many more years until the Dealers were far and few between then we had no choice but to go green to do our farming with John Deere made some great machines too that I would put up against anything out there of that era I still have IH tractors and a combine mostly for my fondness of IH back when they were great

Oil prices differ dealer to dealer at john deere because of when and how much oil they order and what the oil prices were at the time of production

I've found out them cowling bolts are usually a softer grade bolt to begin with and threading into a blind cast iron piece doesn't help matters I usually try to drill the bolt as close to center as possible and drill clear thru the broken bolt an easy out works sometimes but gotta know what its limits are or it will really cost you I have threaded many of them bolt locations to the next bigger size and it really helps

Bates corp.

On our farm we run only branded lubricants only that eliminates some finger pointing as to transmission or hydraulic failures if there's a warranty issue

I'm seeing this number listed but I only see one ball joint connection in that area 393354R91

use cornhead grease its thinner and still can use a grease zerk to lube

I'm sold on Hytran I had a tractor I bought from a neighbor 30 yrs ago that had shell Donax hydraulic oil in a 966 that made the O-rings and rubber parts harden and get brittle and crack ruined the PTO to the clutches would slip it was a total train wreck ended up tearing the whole trans rearend and rebuilding almost everything from the clutch back stayed with Hytran ever since had no problems when they did change the additives back when the magnums first appeared I did notice more brake noise on my 1086 with wet brakes was told it was a change in additives for the newer tractors

These I use are rated for deere's with cabs I'm thinking around 100 amps never had any problems keeping up with electrical needs

I usually purchase them at my local john deere dealer or a good alternator shop also same alternator as the 40-50 series deere tractor's use had very good luck with them

Might have a valve sticking somewhere not suppling enough flow for the power steering or a weak pump

when and if you get it loosened up apply a generous amount of neverseize lube lol those are son-of'a-guns to get moved

the sensing arm needs to be removed to slide the lower torque tube out of the rear frame and yes it can be removed either thru the third link cover I always pulled the pto out made it alot easier not sure why you need to replace it usually just seals or bushings is all is required

Alittle trick I do on those is use a generous amount of bearing mount locktite put a wide rubber band around the bottom of the splines and apply locktight then torque it down good will never work loose to get loose on the splines the straight splines are the worst for getting loose

I've seen a lot of problems boil down to simple maintenance issues lack of service or poor quality filters or lubricants always best to stick with a regular service schedule