ksfarmdude

Good luck but all you'll find is rebuilt parts

Years ago I helped a neighbor that had a 1466 and I had my 1086 we both had identical plows 5-16s plowing in the same field the 1466 would pull the plow a gear higher and had more lugging power I told him he should be pulling 6-16's with it

Too much wear on the reactor plates and or drum making excessive gap before they engage FYI don't use the ceramic discs either use the fiber type and I use antiseize compound on the balls also when I did those things I very seldom have issues again

The check valves on remotes were the first things I got rid of, They were nothing but trouble second thing i did away with all the large IH couplers and went with modern style ISO couplers and tips after that things worked like the should

The ones I've seen are not suppose to be taken apart the tighten screw in the plate is staked pretty well to keep it from falling apart

I have a nice OEM takeoff I'll never use

The old data center tach's used the oil pressure switches for connection but the digital type tach's read hours and rpm's off the flywheel sensor there was no power feed thru the transducer on those I would check grounds and connectors first and also see if someone added something like a monitor CB or any other external device Not sure about that jumper wire your using also have you tried disconnecting that too ? Thats an unusual setup just to by -pass the solenoid Something I wouldn't recommend

I never minded the cartridge filter at all on my tractors with the 282 D engine as for drain back that splitting hairs never worried about that at all The cartridge filter are lower priced and easy to change so I stayed with them

I would try and get the real McCoy head bolt there is different torque specs depending on bolt Identification

You'll lose some flow and motor functions when you change over to the old gear style pump and you'll basically be back to open center again The piston pumps were more trouble I agree I've had issues with broken shafts cracked slipper plates and broken compensator valves but I always stayed with the piston pump

Make sure your Draft lever isn't slipping on the shaft and not turning it I've seen that happen

Again Inferrior blades worn out or otherwise

Blades don't break from speed unless there's rocks involved or you have inferrior blades to begin with optimal speed it 5-6 MPH

That is the low coolant light by the yellow arrow if I'm not mistaken My 1086 would come on and off occasioanally also I changed out the sensor once and it didn't help it woul stll glow after that I'd smack the dash and it would go out figured it had some kind of ground problem after that I just kept an eye on the coolant level and ignored it

Case IH even sells Reliance OH kits , just about all you can find anywhere you look for the older engines