ksfarmdude

Makes me shiver just looking at those pics we only got a little freezing rain here in central kansas We always think winter is about over but last year we had the same type of blowing drifting snow your showing in your pics there only ours was march 3 last yr

I'll stick with my cutoff 55 gal drum for draining engines or transmissions Not high tech but gets the job done

I'd leave them all at 0.20 but there is a serial number break you'll have to see where your engine is listed a lot of the 400 series engines are 0.25 on all valves

I use flat belting material or pickup topper seal stripping also just something thick enough to take the gap up under the radiator and give it alittle cushion effect

The Hitch pump is located in left rear transmission housing slightly ahead of the left final drive housing the serial number you posted is before the PFC pump otherwise I would have suggested you have a restriction in the signal circuit making the hitch raise slow but since its the gear pump I would check for a bad unloader valve if your remote valve operate as required also make sure your linkage on all your hydraulic levers is adjusted correctly if all that looks good then you may have to look in thru the third link bracket and see if there's a high pressure oil leak under your three point rockshaft housing good luck

I use JD's it fits good and looks great

Its more common then just industrial parts I've had several tractors through the years with yellow undercoat you can't tell me they have all been industrial

I keep my two stage compressor set at 150 it reduces cycle time and my air tools work just as good at 150psi

I'd go off seasonal temps if you use the tractor in cold weather go with 10w30 if not stay with 15w40 your call of course

My 656 has yellow primer used on engine and trans housings under the red but maybe that oil filler cap was off a different tractor yr

the yellow is primer before painted red

I have been substituting JD parts for years on my IH equipment when possible things such as Bearings or flanges , alternators some A/C parts anything generic that both companies use ,My local caseIH dealer has poor parts inventories and usually caseIH parts are more expensive and takes longer to get

Cab mounts are a very gradual change in clutch operation I'd doubt that's your cause to begin with with frequent clutch adjustment that should be enough as for that foreign object in your last pic I have no idea what it came from

Years ago i converted an old chevy truck over to 12v negative ground never changed the starter or headlight or any other bulbs never had any problems switching it over