ksfarmdude

If you can't get the sheave loose unbolt the generator to remove belt

let it set overnight and check for anitfreeze in the oil

I was thinking both low pressure and high pressure switches would make the red light come on correct me if I'm wrong

What were the pressure readings on the High and low side when you were charging the system? is your condenser clean and you can see thru it? I always feel the suction (low side ) pipe as I charge to make sure its cold to the touch these old tractors need alot of cleaning to keep the A/.c in good working order lots of things to inspect in order to get efficent cooling

I put mine on the front of the battery box lol

I have a 468 JD baler love it can still make 1500 lb bales

Yikes , she must be a french gal

I've did three before on the eaton pumps assuming yours is similar to my 1460 its not too bad to do after its off cleanliness is paramount you'll need the shaft of course which they usually already come with the bearing cone on the shaft and then an outer bearing cup , new cover gasket and a new unitized shaft seal . The swash plate trunnion link pins both need to come out and the link connected to the speed control arm has to be unhooked also the side trunnion bearing pivot caps taken off they have shims under them that need to be kept on the proper side before the whole shaft assembly can be removed from the case being very careful not to scratch ding or dent the brass bearing plate the inside bearing cone and cup both need replaced also the shaft has a split groove on the end also for the charge pump drive shaft its a very tedious procedure and does require some special tools I take my time working on those and keeping things clean as possible you'll have to make the call yourself it usually costs me 500 hundred or less doing the repair myself

Those jumper tubes I've seen that go into the pump suction port have a snapring on them making it impossible to install otherwise until the pump is in final position because it always requires the filter cover plate removal

I installed that that T/A setup years ago in mine they were warranted for 5 yrs I never had any issues it was a Case-IH T/A used the tractor a lot in tillage also so I was satisfied

I see , a before mat pic would have been helpful guess I've never had the early style that wouldn't let the mat lay flat then

Slide the mat wings under the metal guide tab on the front side I've never had any problem getting the mat to lay down correctly

Those are the ones my combine engine had and they still snapped off go look at the pic I posted earlier

Use a 90 degree crows foot wrench with a socket extention

Why would a planed head make any difference in the end it comes down to valve tappet clearance planing the head would be a mute point