Jump to content

Coyote Crossing

  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

3 Neutral

About Coyote Crossing

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Mindoro, WI
  • Interests
    International 500 dozer, trees, woodworking and boating

Recent Profile Visitors

1,162 profile views
  1. I wish I had mine bored my engine nd put in over sized piston when I rebuilt it. if I ever (when) have to pull my hydraulic pump again I will need new bushings. PM me a price. Brad
  2. You dozer is the same year as mine but yours has a higher serial #. I have all the manuals which I got from www.binderbooks.com and they are for the 1967. The engine manual covers both the gas and the diesel. I can look up info for you until you get manuals. There are quite a few 500 owners maybe you are close to one of us and we could help out. I'm in southwestern Wisconsin.
  3. The video on operating a 1978 500 dozer has a lot of mistakes. The 500 was made from 1966 to 1969. It does not have steering pedal brakes. The steering brakes are engaged by pulling the steering levers all the way back. The right pedal is a brake but engages both track brakes. The left pedal works like a clutch to disengage both tracks. With a reverser there is no reverse gear in the transmission.
  4. You can get the manuals on www.binderbooks.com There is a different book for each system plus an operator's manual and a parts manual. They are reprints but they are OK. Mine is gas, so I can't help you with the engine. I have an extra copy of the Hitch and Hydraulic System manual I can send you. Email me your address--coyote_crossing@centurytel.net
  5. Your serial # doesn't look right. Your serial # should be on the bellhousing near the starter. It should only have 4 numbers. Mine is H2770R. The 500 was manufactured from 1965 to 1969. Check www.TractorData.com for your serial number date.
  6. By my measurements a 500C track should fit. Same pitch. Same bushing diameter. Same rail height. Same roller diameter and flange height. i don't know if it has the same number of pads (links). I have a 500 and used the wear guide for the 500C to measure mine.
  7. He said it had been sitting in a shed for the last few years. Before that they used it to skid trees out for firewood. He said his brother throw a track of once and they had had removed the left steering clutch because it was stuck, cleaned off the rust and put it back with no new parts. They bought it in 1985 in Illinois where it had been used in farming which is probably why the right steering brake is well worn and the left is like new. I didn't like that the covers were off the steering clutches (he didn't know why) and there was very little oil in the transmission. He deals in IH far
  8. Hardtail, I'm getting up there in age and I not a big man so the heavy stuff is not as easy as it was when I was in my 50s or 60s. I wanted it but couldn't see myself pulling another set of track and removing all pads and then putting everything. I found sprockets but are pins and bushing available. Pulling the winch to get at the oil leak was another issue I was not set up for. I still have work to do on my IH 500, so I will work on that.
  9. Ok. I went back to check out the '41 T9. It started easily, smoked but then ran clean. I drove it a little. The right steering clutch was stuck. Both steering brakes worked. The main clutch was good. The transmission oil looks to have leaked out the back under the winch. I did measurements on the undercarriage. The links, idlers and rollers were good (50% or better). The track pins & bushings were at 0% and the sprockets were well worn. I didn't run the winch but all levers worked freely. It was a military crawler according to the serial number--ended in T4. He had a offer of
  10. I'll go back down this week when he is there, so I can drive it and check the bottom sprockets. I'll look for the brass tag on the firewall which army crawlers should have. I have a list of questions for him. The rails, rollers and idlers look good but the bushings are well worn but not through to the pin. Would it be worth having them turned? I can get a picture when I go to see it.
  11. Thanks. Hardtail and Mike. I like the gas engine. I'm thinking they never added oil to the tranny. What is strange is they owned a tractor sales and repair business, be it, farm tractors. They don't have any manuals. I beleve it was stored indoors, so the fact that the covers are off the steering clutches may not be a problem. I'll see what the owner says when I go to drive it.
  12. Scrap prices here in Wisconsin are not that high. I would quess less than a $1000. I'm concerned about the missing transmission oil. Where did it go?
  13. I looked at a T9 crawler with a Carco winch, no blade. The guy has had it since 1985 and replaced the head and nothing else. The pins and bushing are passed the point where they should have been turned or replaced but not worn through. The tracks are too tight. The rails, rollers and idlers look good but the drive sprocket is well worn. The covers were off the steering clutches and the left seems to be sticking a little. The left steer brake look bearly used and the pedal doesn't seem to active the brake. The right steering brake is well worn. There were signs of oil on the inside of t
  14. Take it to your local hydraulic shop. They should have parts to fix it or they can fix it. That's what I did with my 500.
  15. If it's a gas engine it would be a C-146. If it's diesel it would be a BD-154-T. Check www.tractordata.com, if you want to know more about the engines.
  • Create New...