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Everything posted by boog

  1. Been 60 years since I've been around that type coupler but as I recall they were a pita to hook up / unhook. Remember having to use a screwdriver(s) in the slot
  2. Easier to make a water level & screw it in the bottom of the carb bowel where the drain plug is. Then you can watch the gas level as the tractor is running
  3. I posted that years ago after someone on here called me a "crotchety old fart". Problem is, the older I get the more like the poster I get
  4. You can leave the main beam "as is" & slide the furrow wheel forward. Thay way you could put the removed back on later if you needed to. Ive seen it done both ways
  5. I've used that TSC parts cleaner going on 10 yrs. Don't care for the smell but works good. I don't mix it with anything
  6. Let me take a look. I switched a 710 plow from CAT II TO CAT III and should still have the II bar if it will fit a 700
  7. Sounds like your plow may have originally been fast hitch. Cross beam on fast hitch was 26", Cat II is 28" & Cat III was 32". Back in the early '70s I had a fast hitch 560 plow. When I got a 3 pt tractor I took the fast hitch prongs off to use the plow on the 3pt tractor. Had to take the CatbII quick hitch off the tractor because it was too wide tillmI found a 28" cross hitch for the plow.
  8. Angle head wrench is what I use in that situation. Also have a drawer full of "specialty" wrenches I've adapted over the years
  9. I have an old IH 3 1/2" × 8" IH hyd cylinder, the one that has the push button stop built in that I need a seal kit for. They are NLA at CIH. Cylinder is leaking at the base end, not ram end. Anybody have a source for a kit. Also, what would the part no. be for this cylinder? TIA, boog
  10. Like others said, all depends on how it was used. I've seen tractors with add-on turbos that are in good shape & others w/o turbos I wouldn't have. Turbo should quit it down if that matters. I know our non turboed 806 with 66 series muffler is a lot noisier than our 1206 with straight pipe
  11. I believe the 856xl was made in the UK & is later production than the 856.
  12. Does it work? Would be a shame to dismantle one that still worked. If you do tear it apart I would be interested in the door seals if still good. Maybe a couple other things. We have one out in the shop that was running until a couple years ago when we moved it out there from my son' garage. Ran until then but has set since unplugged.
  13. If your paying $100 for a gal of Hy-Tran you're getting screwed We pay ~$13/gal for Hy-Tran. Whether it helps or not is debatable but we've added the extra gal in out IH tractors since the '80s. Hasn't hurt anything yet. Old IH service manager recommended it if tractor was being operated in unlevel conditions.
  14. Had a neighbor that pulled a 16 30" Kinze planter with a 4020 for years. Planter was one of those early rear folding models. I use pulled a 6x14" plow with an 806D when I first started farming. Plowed 10" deep in ipava & Sable silt loams, good heavy black dirt. Didnt set any speed records but it got the job done.
  15. We do that with cannister filters as well. Use a paint pen to write date & hours on the cannister. Next oil change a light spraying of "Brake Kleene" will remove the paint from the paint pen so you can remark The date & hours.
  16. As others stated, the string filter was the primary filter. I bought an 806D back in '71, 8t had the string filter primary & a cartridge secondary filter. Been several years since our dealer has sold the string filter, use the secondary filter in both csnnisters or you could convert to spin on filters.
  17. I bought an aftermarket replacement radiator for a SM a few years ago. Thing wouldn't even come close to fitting without a lot of swimming then grill wouldnt fit properly. Took it back to the rad repair shop where I bought it & had them record my old radiator. Record was 50% more than the new aftermarket but it did fit correctly.
  18. You need to add a priority flow control valve and a "Christmas tree valve". The pfcv will provide constant hyd flow to the power steering unit and thexmas valve will give you 2-way hyds
  19. I had a 13 shank #55 3 bar chisel plow., was considered a 13". It was too much for a 1066 on black soils. Most of the #55 chisel plows sold around here at that time were either 9 shank or 11 shank 2 bars. 9 shanks were pulled with either 966s / 1066s, 11 shanks wre pulled by 1066s / 1466s
  20. I'll be the odd man out, I like the pertronic electronic ignition.Have them in a SMTA, a SM, a M , and in a Toyota form truck. The AM stay on a 10" x 3 6' bin loadoutvirtuall year round, probably moves over 300,000 by it train every year. Put the pertronic in 5 years ago along with new plugs, have changed plugs once since then.Tractor doesn't need to be choked to start, even during the winter. The fork truck use to burn a set of points & foul plugs in in 3 days. That was the first pertronix I put in, probably 7 years ago. Just put the third set of plugs in this spring. If going with a pertronix I would recommend also installing their 40,000 volt coil.
  21. IH offered 3 different distributors on the Letter Series - IH, Delco, & Prestolite. All the Delcos I have been around were vertical mounted & the IH were horizontal. Have never seen a Letter Series tractor with a Prestolite distributor
  22. IHoffered three distributor options on the Letter series tractors - Delcos, IH, & Prestolite. All the Delcos I have been around were vertical mount, IHs were horizontal, have never seen a Prestolite on a Letter series.
  23. J-Mech, we've done this on both clamp style & wedge style, both red & green, works for us. Former IH service manager was the one that gave me the tip. As for the sledge hammer splinter, that was from a defective sledge hammer, would have happened in a different situation. Unfortunate that someone else was close by when it happened.
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