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Everything posted by VacDaddyt

  1. People have change those tele depth valves out for the more normal ones. Just saw the linkage , if disconnected that changes a few things here. Now you need to see if the valve is change so the gear set inside is not your problem.
  2. Also pic number five is a double acting check valve. The control valve for the fast hitch if the linkage is still on can give trouble trying to find the correct location. Couplers are not usually found in the lines of the fast hitch ( can be a problem by itself)if the linkage is present because the control valve has a centering portion inside the valve that wears or breaks. Second the aux valve need to be set to "D" or "S" firmly. If any of the valves are not "centered" you will be still on higher pressure. Screen and orifice is under the dash but do not remember how it is built as I have not been around dads 240 in a long time. Ours filled up with junk 40 years ago but the dealership fixed it then.
  3. All I can say is wow on that hitch. I see parts from at least three generations of fast hitch and then the other parts to make it all work. good job.
  4. VacDaddyt


    A prior post got me thinking about picking up rocks. In the 90s we picked up a lot that were mostly limestone but there was a lot of small black granite ones. We would leave the really small ones as we did not do beans but just below soft ball size and up would pick. One day picking corn with the 315, we mostly did small grains and picked/chopped most of the corn, I picked up a half ear sized one and shoved a rasp and the support back up into the cylinder. I broke two 60 H chains after stretching them out. Spent three or four day straitening every thing back after milking. We also ran a G gleaner but something like that would just pop the door. The Gleaner broke down and I finished the last 80 acres with the 315 when repaired. What size do you pick up and does a rotor get damaged as bad as a rasp bar cylinder combine? I have heard people roll the fields shoving them back in is that popular now?
  5. bolt pattern looks to be c thru 340
  6. Most of the 10-15 cu ft. refrigerator I have been buying for the hospital are charged with propane
  7. Have you jacked the front off the ground and with the engine off seen if it steers easily? I have had three of those series that the knuckles or u joints have rusted and needed replacing. Next is the oil foaming or not. When you had the flow control apart did you clean the strainer and orifice? I made a hose that came off the pump ports on the plate the pump mounts on that you can use with a gauge and valve. I put the oil back into the transmission. Close the valve for a short period , just enough to check pressures and run the system lock to lock to see if the pressure is good. Once done with that the valve under the front that bolts on to the cylinder I found the springs assembled wrong on my last 560. If someone put it together wrong you will have problems. My current 560 there is junk in the transmission I am still flushing out by changing the filters. Last time it was better. This shows up as the screen is plugging up on the side. That system should have little pressure on it when not in use. The little orifice is there to control the pilot circuit if that is not right you can have troubles also. That part is for the main hydraulics. The power steering relief is on the pump. Power steering on those is the first to lose oil if the pump is sucking air. The cup of the seal faces the pump and is sucked towards the filter. I split my last 560 to replace the square o- ring but it was not the problem. You can see the pump through the hole in the filter side with a good flash light. They can be frustrating, good luck.
  8. I am more leaning to the cylinder leaking at the plate of the cylinder that moves inside, this bypasses oil leaking outside because it is all internal. If you do not need the lift part pin it stationary at the provided locations on each side and then lower the cylinder so the lift arms are down. It will be easier to get on and the drawbar will be at normal height for use and the one picture above shows where the points of attachment are. Tractor will not try to lift or lower as it is in the down location already and will not interfere with any operation.
  9. Red primer, did one with grey and the paint came out a wine type color. Beautiful but not expected.
  10. Do bear in mind if you can bolt a M engine(likely) to the bell housing the gas tank will not clear the top. M is taller engine.
  11. 263,291,301 gas. 236,282, 301 diesel.
  12. They made a large, 240-up and small- 230 on down, all are the same width between the prongs.
  13. Your comment on four hoses to the rear. Are you using the block that should be installed in the seat base to the right of the mount? This is the check valve that snoshoe is mentioning. If it is not installed correctly or has failed it will do as you describe. As mentioned if you are not using the hitch "park " it as mentioned.
  14. I would stay away from draper heads if you have pocket gophers and plan on cutting when damp. I cut 2-300 acres a year with a 280 with a 12 footer, narrow swath and does not dry quickly. Nice machine for small grains. Was able to use it for hay one year that it did not stop the aprons with the dirt. I would have liked to try a IH with the small augers but quit farming because of family problems.
  15. 544 can have a T/A that gets out of adjustment .This is just like a 656 with the shifting.
  16. Several things can affect that. Is the linkages loose and well lubricated? Then adjust the T/A and clutch and see if it gets better. Likely there is an adjustment not quite right. Grinding should be minimal the first time and not there if it was in gear and going to another.
  17. I hope you did not stop too often with the drill seeding. You will have a gap after each time and a big clump at the stopping point. Only did that once before o got a talking to from dad.
  18. So I am working on the thrust bearings on the lower spindles. Case IH wants 99 a bearing if you find them. Not all stores have them. Other parts houses have a will fit but the outer dimensions are close to a quarter inch each side smaller. Priced at ten to fifteen bucks. I am not keen on doing that but maybe for a tractor that is not going to see extra weight on the front maybe it will not matter much what are your thoughts.
  19. Is the solenoid on the carb opening?
  20. We call that parts changer technicians. Never carry an electric meter or any diagnostic tools and wouldn't know how to use them if they did.
  21. Nice job on the mount. I have a new appreciation for something I thought was common but not that large ours I would have said around 120. Why did the larger ones come about? Was it to handle larger smithing? I am now watching two on an auction site in Mazeppa MN, my old home town. One is around 230 and the other they say is 4-500lbs. Yikes I would hate to have that roll off on your foot.
  22. Got the pump mounted and new hoses. Filled it up and it works good. Power steering was not good so I jacked it up and the right had spindle seemed to bind. Took the wide front off as it needs work and I wanted to narrow it up but some genius decided to weld them in place. What a job. Ran out of acetylene and had to switch to propane as they did not have any gas for the last week and did not know when they were getting more. Oh well, the tip needed changing anyway. Now as it is off it wants to turn so I will pull them apart to see what is going on. Still need to check the gear box for oil but my manual has very little so I get to explore. I have split the axle ends open and it is almost rust welded in place. Some pic as I go. I could buy a different front but what is to say I would have the same trouble narrowing it up.
  23. All the fittings on the new oxygen tank farm at Abbot Northwestern Hospital, and other med gas lines were brazed but not with the old style silver braze. There might have been silver in the rod but you can't tell. The early style silver braze that you used flux is the gold standard but due to the possibility of extra flux in the system and extra cost likely were not used.
  24. I had one. As long as you raked with a older side rake that makes somewhat a loose ropy windrow that will stick together and not clump. Made really good bales behind my 706 with a standard hitch. Best I did was my cousin bought some hay and needed it round baled and he cut late. Did not have to weave or nothing the windrow was so large I barely could straddle it go a little way, pushed it tight and drop the bale, repeat. was only 15 acres but ran around three ton an acre. If you pushed it, it made a bale that you could stack three high but were a soft core with a harder outer shell. Cheap old baler they don't go over 200 here now no matter how good.
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