VacDaddyt

Our 3200 series A did the same jumping around when starting and we never did get it fixed. Biggest problem was the MAG. Tried a rebuild and then replaced it. Almost unstoppable. But if you got it off the cement or dry dirt you were in trouble. Couldn't quite lift a very large round bale. We adapted a manure bucket from a Deere loader. Boy you could move pen packed stuff fast with it. I really liked that the front wheels were not rigid so it would walk over stuff easy.

Yes, block is marked C169 and it has the standard (soup can) pistons which show very little wear. Checking into what it would cost to have rods rebushed as the pistons have the 1 inch pins. Might pay for a new sleeve from CIH.

Well I finally dug deeper into several problems and have been fixing other things to get it mechanically sound before going down the paint road. T/A clutch was not releasing when clutching or pulling the T/A lever. Not totally sure I got it fixed but the disc was bonded to the pressure plate and flywheel. Several springs broke and use parts and a new disc later put back together. Also found the lower gear of the PTO loose and tightened that up. Still don't have it all adjusted yet. Pulled the head off and found gouges in the #4 sleeve and a chipped ring. Bearing were the best I have seen in a tractor I have pulled apart and may have been worked on in the recent past. The bore is standard and the wrist pins are the large size so it gets more involved when changing pistons. Pulled the sleeve and now am trying to get a good used sleeve before pulling the rest as they have minimal wear. Ordered new rings and gaskets but they have not come. The sleeve I found, the outer bore was too small. ID was ok at 3.563. Outer bore of new sleeve was 3.680 while what was in the tractor was 3.750. Not sure it was in the 300 bin at Worthington tractor. I wish I had hydraulic for my puller or a wrench with more leverage. I am hoping I do not need to go all out as this is mostly a puttering around type of tractor for play. It was just when it burned oil you sat in a cloud.

The knuckle that just before the gear box can shear the key. Loosen the mid point and slide it back if I remember correctly, It has been only35 years since it sheared on us.

It will do the oats better than it will do the corn with the 40 or so inch wide cylinder. I could pace a G gleaner on the same swaths. Corn on the flat it will do just fine . The threshing body does real well with the open bottom walkers and the pan underneath. We ran 130 acres a year in small grains between the G and the 315. Corn we would pick until the cribs were full on 3-400 acres and combine the rest with the Gleaner doing most of the work because of 4 rows but have picked 80 or more with the 315 when we had issues with keeping the Allis motor running. All I had to do was stay ahead of the 250 bu. batch dryer and 3-4 batches a day. It was a lot cheaper to run than the Gleaner with fuel.

Only thing I did not like about the corn head for a 315 is it used a series of paddles to throw the corn up to the cylinder. Threw a granite rock in once and it took several days to get the bars, cylinder etc. straight. Decent capacity on the flat but running a side hill the sieves were too short to go any speed called fast. I liked mine once I got the unloading auger to work good.

Pizza OK afterwards, beer?

How close to the Twin Cities are you? I am just over the sconny border on 94. I might have been able to fix you up with the mics.

I bought the gasket at Case IH. Get down to the block and take two bolts out diagonally. Get bolts that are 1/2 to 3/4 inch longer and put them in the two empty holes. Then take out the other two and loosen up the longer ones. I think I did it in two steps. Once apart, gently pull out the guts making sure you keep the parts in the correct order--pictures help. The screen to clean is under what looks like a very large flat blade screw. Unscrew it and clean. If there is still a little steel ball in the end, remove and throw away. Hopefully the screen does not fall apart when removing. I used furnace drills from a hardware store to clean the small hole. If I remember correctly is is around .040.

Hour or so job

Leave tires on if possible, could be thousand pounds. Two six by and a twelve ton jack will pick a side up easily. but you should be able to do the brakes with it on the ground. level ground if possible. Cab and the loader will make it a challenge.

Ever notice it takes a lot more work to get a bad weld off than good weld--

Red primer, did one with grey and the paint came out a wine type color. Beautiful but not expected.

I hope you did not stop too often with the drill seeding. You will have a gap after each time and a big clump at the stopping point. Only did that once before o got a talking to from dad.

So I am working on the thrust bearings on the lower spindles. Case IH wants 99 a bearing if you find them. Not all stores have them. Other parts houses have a will fit but the outer dimensions are close to a quarter inch each side smaller. Priced at ten to fifteen bucks. I am not keen on doing that but maybe for a tractor that is not going to see extra weight on the front maybe it will not matter much what are your thoughts.

Nice job on the mount. I have a new appreciation for something I thought was common but not that large ours I would have said around 120. Why did the larger ones come about? Was it to handle larger smithing? I am now watching two on an auction site in Mazeppa MN, my old home town. One is around 230 and the other they say is 4-500lbs. Yikes I would hate to have that roll off on your foot.

Got the pump mounted and new hoses. Filled it up and it works good. Power steering was not good so I jacked it up and the right had spindle seemed to bind. Took the wide front off as it needs work and I wanted to narrow it up but some genius decided to weld them in place. What a job. Ran out of acetylene and had to switch to propane as they did not have any gas for the last week and did not know when they were getting more. Oh well, the tip needed changing anyway. Now as it is off it wants to turn so I will pull them apart to see what is going on. Still need to check the gear box for oil but my manual has very little so I get to explore. I have split the axle ends open and it is almost rust welded in place. Some pic as I go. I could buy a different front but what is to say I would have the same trouble narrowing it up.

I used a long bar and was able to shift the rails in mine last week, oiled the rails and spring assemblies. I found the shift lever itself was not moving in the little tower. Soaked it in penetrant and got it freed up. Until I geet the rest moving I will leave it stiff for now.

That is exactly what it should have looked like. All the rest of the parts also look the same. Thanks

Just an update. Finally got the engine running, runs out decent. Found a Venturi online. Someone cut the condenser wire inside the distributor. New plugs and just filed the points. Bypassed the wiring temporarily to see if it could run. Bought a solenoid which was missing and new cables. Got the wiring fixed so it will start and run with the key. Had to repair the fuel line and sediment bowl for leaks and the carb plugged the needle and seat. Repairing the hydraulic front mount support base right now as it was cobbled on and appears crooked. Not sure the history on this but the hydraulic on the engine is/was not there so plan to use the current one. The shaft without the pump kinda bounces around making a racket. Started with making a plate to bolt the pump on but wish I had a picture to go by. Old mount is cobbled and cut off. I do not see anything like it on the parts site. Any pointers on getting the alignment right? Was planning on getting it close and rotating the motor over by hand to see how much movement is there. Anyone have any pictures of something like it?

This one appears to be red painted over with yellow( some numbering on hood indicates business use). It is flaking off and if I was not tied up trying to figure the transmission problem out on the Suburban(if the frame and body was not in such good shape I would scrap it) would have seen how much would come off with a pressure washer when it was above freezing. I have reversed the rear wheels and tried to start it but only got as far as turning it over . I need a better supply of gas. I found a venturi and got that put together. Did a basic check of ignition but need to go deeper as it wouldn't fire the first try. Wiring is missing the starter solenoid but have been using an old screw driver. I might disable the front pump for the hydraulics so the engine can turn over faster and easier, clutch is stuck so neutral for now. Not enough day light hours and my paying job gets in the way. Oh well.

Exhaust was up right for a long time, long enough that the bolt heads on the elbow are almost rounded off with rust. This tractor is a jig saw puzzle. I took the rest of the sheet metal off the engine and found extra resistors and condensers and a rats nest of wiring. Took the carb off because the fuel line was cut and it looked like mud daubers were at work. Did not find a venturi even though the recess is for it. Dirt and grime through most of the passageways. Did they not put a venturi in some models? Or do I need to find one. I was going to see if it runs before I dig too deep. I did get three or four gallons of water out of the trans before it freezes up. I did find some hytran in each of the three compartments. More as I dig.

Just dragged this home. Will need a lot of work. At least the engine is loose, but was dismayed when they tilted it loading and water ran out of one of the rear axles. I will have to get everything drained but likely that will let things rust. The rear hitch was unexpected. Tires are weather checked and round. Got rid of the roll bar to get it inside. Usually don't see a front pump only-might not stay that way. I am beginning to think I should take it apart first and see what needs to be done I know the clutch isn't right and the front end rear support needs help. Probably should get the top of the trans off to see how rusty. They said it was inside for years, If you believe that I got some swamp land to sell you. The only problem is my C2500 trans started to slip when backing in the drive, that may have to come first.

Been casually following this and just realized you could have sucked something solid into the chamber .Should be able to look into the area through the spark plug hole and see the top of the pistons when up partially.

Would need the filter number also.