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Everything posted by VacDaddyt

  1. I used a long bar and was able to shift the rails in mine last week, oiled the rails and spring assemblies. I found the shift lever itself was not moving in the little tower. Soaked it in penetrant and got it freed up. Until I geet the rest moving I will leave it stiff for now.
  2. That is exactly what it should have looked like. All the rest of the parts also look the same. Thanks
  3. Just an update. Finally got the engine running, runs out decent. Found a Venturi online. Someone cut the condenser wire inside the distributor. New plugs and just filed the points. Bypassed the wiring temporarily to see if it could run. Bought a solenoid which was missing and new cables. Got the wiring fixed so it will start and run with the key. Had to repair the fuel line and sediment bowl for leaks and the carb plugged the needle and seat. Repairing the hydraulic front mount support base right now as it was cobbled on and appears crooked. Not sure the history on this but the hydraulic on the engine is/was not there so plan to use the current one. The shaft without the pump kinda bounces around making a racket. Started with making a plate to bolt the pump on but wish I had a picture to go by. Old mount is cobbled and cut off. I do not see anything like it on the parts site. Any pointers on getting the alignment right? Was planning on getting it close and rotating the motor over by hand to see how much movement is there. Anyone have any pictures of something like it?
  4. This one appears to be red painted over with yellow( some numbering on hood indicates business use). It is flaking off and if I was not tied up trying to figure the transmission problem out on the Suburban(if the frame and body was not in such good shape I would scrap it) would have seen how much would come off with a pressure washer when it was above freezing. I have reversed the rear wheels and tried to start it but only got as far as turning it over . I need a better supply of gas. I found a venturi and got that put together. Did a basic check of ignition but need to go deeper as it wouldn't fire the first try. Wiring is missing the starter solenoid but have been using an old screw driver. I might disable the front pump for the hydraulics so the engine can turn over faster and easier, clutch is stuck so neutral for now. Not enough day light hours and my paying job gets in the way. Oh well.
  5. Exhaust was up right for a long time, long enough that the bolt heads on the elbow are almost rounded off with rust. This tractor is a jig saw puzzle. I took the rest of the sheet metal off the engine and found extra resistors and condensers and a rats nest of wiring. Took the carb off because the fuel line was cut and it looked like mud daubers were at work. Did not find a venturi even though the recess is for it. Dirt and grime through most of the passageways. Did they not put a venturi in some models? Or do I need to find one. I was going to see if it runs before I dig too deep. I did get three or four gallons of water out of the trans before it freezes up. I did find some hytran in each of the three compartments. More as I dig.
  6. Just dragged this home. Will need a lot of work. At least the engine is loose, but was dismayed when they tilted it loading and water ran out of one of the rear axles. I will have to get everything drained but likely that will let things rust. The rear hitch was unexpected. Tires are weather checked and round. Got rid of the roll bar to get it inside. Usually don't see a front pump only-might not stay that way. I am beginning to think I should take it apart first and see what needs to be done I know the clutch isn't right and the front end rear support needs help. Probably should get the top of the trans off to see how rusty. They said it was inside for years, If you believe that I got some swamp land to sell you. The only problem is my C2500 trans started to slip when backing in the drive, that may have to come first.
  7. Been casually following this and just realized you could have sucked something solid into the chamber .Should be able to look into the area through the spark plug hole and see the top of the pistons when up partially.
  8. Would need the filter number also.
  9. 460 who is making the hydraulic filter extension kit now? I tried looking but the co quit.
  10. Looks like the previous owner bailed out of the truck at the right time---or had premonitions that it was going south in a hurry. Wow I feel for you. I am looking at a larger tow unit and now am wondering if I should shove a 454 in my early nineties suburban.
  11. Famous last words. Just wait until the pain and suffering have gotten foggy and you will right back in for another project.
  12. Just from being around those It will make getting on from the back a lot harder so keep an open mind about it. I have also heard that they work ok but not as good as a tractor with a original three point.
  13. I miss the old days in the 70s my dad would take us to the horse pulls over by Northfield MN. was great watching pull stone boats. Even got to ride the boat sometimes.
  14. I am not sure but believe the Fast Hitch is rated around 2700 Lbs. I know I have picked up wet round bales that two different loaders could not, I believe way over 2000 Lbs Holding the front down can be a problem but I had a 2001 loader on at the time. Pulled 4/16 for years with it with 1000 Lb hanging out front thought it felt the same handling weight as our 686 with 3 point. Of course you don't have to fill the tanks all the way, I know it may mean another trip to the tank. 674 will be light on the front way before the 560.
  15. I have been following this since you started and at the end here is must you must be getting a thrilled and anxious to see it run. I sure hope you can get some video of it running and baling because we all would like to see it in motion again. thanks for the thread. Roger
  16. I had a 560 supported from the split at the rear end forward on mine(kept the T/A section with the motor). The jacks supported it fine but the cranking mechanism on the cheap jacks is in my opinion OK and doable but could have a better ratio of gearing as they are quick. If you turn the handle it would be better if you had to crank more turns for the movement. I only use them just a few times, if I was doing more work better jacks would make life easier.
  17. Same Idea as mentioned by others, Here is mine I use them for a lot of other things. Got the jacks from harbor fright. I have common bolts and a plate to attach to the roller box.
  18. The cover that he has in the picture is located down by you left foot inside the outer plate. The cover can be taken off by using two longer bolts and going back and forth until the large spring is released. Afterwards the screen is behind the orifice using a large screw drive to unscrew. Screen can be plugged. Orifice plugged etc. I use furnace drills to clean the orifice hole.
  19. From what I remember the 400 you took the front screen completely off and at the screw holes bolted this on which is a tapered piece of solid steel. On the top the whole part was perforated screen that almost was too high to see over but got it above the stalks. Then there were side perforated pieces on each side to keep debris off the manifolds and filter areas. We also had a taller stack for the air intake moving it upwards also. We did not put taller head lights on but the neighbors did, and they usually stayed on afterwards. I have seen some people use rotary screens from combines but dad did not do that. Still blew the radiator out every day when greasing. Like most of the other comments it usually took a day to get it all put on.
  20. Bottom part of a device to get air for the radiator up high from a mounted corn picker.
  21. My brother owns it now and have not been there for some time as my job kinda gets in the way so measurements is a no go for me. I see them for sale, the whole hitch that is, occasionally. I believe there is a small salvage by Lyon Nebraska can't remember the name of it, that had one sitting a few years ago that might have the parts on it. You will have to try salvage yards or the process of trial and error.But that is definitely your problem of why it stays on pressure. You may be able to get a book and do a poor mans copy with a calipers and some standard of measurement to give for size. I guess I am lucky in that my tractors have it complete or just do not have to make it original. They work great when working. The three I have now do not have the linkage and I move the hitch to where I want with the valve that self centers like the one on the front and leave it there. Two have the older style that you set with a depth stop. The IT manual for my 560 has really good picture of the linkage, maybe the 240 manual would also.
  22. Just dropped back in on this thread. If am reading this correctly you move the lever to the right of the seat and then the hitch moves- here I am not sure what you are saying, but the hitch should go up or down and match where the lever is at. It should go on pressure to move and then shut off based on where the lever is left. If you have to move it back to the center then the gear set in the valve is out of time or the linkage that follows the hitch is miss adjusted I guess it could have been changed out to a regular valve at some point. There is a whole section in how to set/time the tele-depth valve in my IT manual. The flow control for pressure usually is not a problem if you can move or bump a lever some place and the noise goes away
  23. Drat took a day off from work to put the hitch on the 560 and found out some of the parts in that pile I bought were from a much smaller tractor.Doubt it is a 460 but the bolt holes on the center plate I doubt were 3/4 inch. OH well. Still missing a few pins for the draft control and now the center piece. I am not sure if I can bend the drawbar but it is crooked with the welding done, I may try that tomorrow.
  24. Checking in with some progress. Bolt holes on the sides were tough to get cleaned out but I managed. I have put a few of these on but I seem to always get ahead of my self with the stabilizer and have to almost take the side off again. Oh well. Still have a bunch of pins and cotters to install and then level the drawbar and then figure out which hose goes to the top of the check valve assembly. I also have to get the depth stop working as it just slides down the shaft of the cylinder. The drawbar is bent and has been welded so I may look for a different one later ( at least I think my press is not heavy enough to bend it) . Then I can start on the last 560.
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