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Everything posted by VacDaddyt

  1. 686 with 310 German originally had a lower compression set of pistons. Dealer changed ours out when they found out we need it to run consistently at 0 or below. They put ones from a 706 in it so the later engines were the problem. When we first got it in the fall we had to plug it in anytime below 40 degrees or you could run the batteries down trying to get it started and is smoked like a freight train loaded up hill.
  2. Horse power wise the 686 and the 706 were so close it was hard to tell the difference, but when it came to pulling something you could tell there was more iron in the rear end of the 706. Not sure about a 756 but the 766 there was no comparison but it was a tiny bit more clumsy. We had a 686D,706D and a 766D at the same time.
  3. I am going to be the negative on this to a point. We bought a demonstrator with a few hundred hours. It should have been sent back, melted down and rebuilt. When it was running it was a great tractor, hard to get on if you were bundled up, was fuel efficient, prone to wet stack so you needed to use it and not idle around. Once in the seat great. Used it on a large manure spreader and the haybine in the summer and general small jobs. We had problems from the front end to the rear and everything in between but the T/A. Engine overhauled four times in 4000 hours all by case IH. Front end leaked oil because the holes for the bolster were drilled too deep. No copper in the wiring harness for the alternator. German engine the fuel pump went crazy twice. Harmonic balancer came loose before 1000 hours. Sleeves, electrolysis twice- couldn't start it below45 degrees-engine rebuilt first time. The last time the dealer ran it without oil. Stripped second gear off and the final straw was stripping the pinion gear set. Had hydraulic problems several times and the oil was changed with filter on a schedule, same with the coolant and engine oil. I believe it had a coolant filter added also. It was used but not abused. I still think it was built after beer thirty on a Friday. It just did not stand up as well as the 766.
  4. Start with the couplers, they have been known to not open correctly or all the way.
  5. If you go by the State of MN, it is by the heating surface area of the boiler or how much water can be evaporated in a given length of time🤔.
  6. Symptoms of a bad resister on coil
  7. Update on progress. Got the TA clutch put back together a few weeks ago but got stuck locating parts for engine. Ended up buying piston/sleeve, fire crater, over-bore kits from ASAP. Also bought different connecting rods that had the correct wrist pin holes. Cracked one sleeve trying to install and backed off the project while I got better measurement tools and a replacement sleeve. I purchased a two stone boring tool and used dry ice to get the sleeves in while heating the block up. The replacement sleeve was.001 smaller than the reliance ones and went in with no problems. I would test fit the sleeve and then if needed pull it and bore a bit- retest until they went in good. The deck is not true to the bore but was in range when I checked flange stand out. I used copper coat and finished up. Engine ran for 45 minutes before I retorqued the head. I have to go back and reset the valves but it is running now with about 50-60Psig oil pressure. Not sure how to post a video but have a short one on my phone. I do not have the wide front completely back on yet so I can test the TA and clutch better. More to come.
  8. Yes, block is marked C169 and it has the standard (soup can) pistons which show very little wear. Checking into what it would cost to have rods rebushed as the pistons have the 1 inch pins. Might pay for a new sleeve from CIH.
  9. Well I finally dug deeper into several problems and have been fixing other things to get it mechanically sound before going down the paint road. T/A clutch was not releasing when clutching or pulling the T/A lever. Not totally sure I got it fixed but the disc was bonded to the pressure plate and flywheel. Several springs broke and use parts and a new disc later put back together. Also found the lower gear of the PTO loose and tightened that up. Still don't have it all adjusted yet. Pulled the head off and found gouges in the #4 sleeve and a chipped ring. Bearing were the best I have seen in a tractor I have pulled apart and may have been worked on in the recent past. The bore is standard and the wrist pins are the large size so it gets more involved when changing pistons. Pulled the sleeve and now am trying to get a good used sleeve before pulling the rest as they have minimal wear. Ordered new rings and gaskets but they have not come. The sleeve I found, the outer bore was too small. ID was ok at 3.563. Outer bore of new sleeve was 3.680 while what was in the tractor was 3.750. Not sure it was in the 300 bin at Worthington tractor. I wish I had hydraulic for my puller or a wrench with more leverage. I am hoping I do not need to go all out as this is mostly a puttering around type of tractor for play. It was just when it burned oil you sat in a cloud.
  10. The knuckle that just before the gear box can shear the key. Loosen the mid point and slide it back if I remember correctly, It has been only35 years since it sheared on us.
  11. It will do the oats better than it will do the corn with the 40 or so inch wide cylinder. I could pace a G gleaner on the same swaths. Corn on the flat it will do just fine . The threshing body does real well with the open bottom walkers and the pan underneath. We ran 130 acres a year in small grains between the G and the 315. Corn we would pick until the cribs were full on 3-400 acres and combine the rest with the Gleaner doing most of the work because of 4 rows but have picked 80 or more with the 315 when we had issues with keeping the Allis motor running. All I had to do was stay ahead of the 250 bu. batch dryer and 3-4 batches a day. It was a lot cheaper to run than the Gleaner with fuel.
  12. Only thing I did not like about the corn head for a 315 is it used a series of paddles to throw the corn up to the cylinder. Threw a granite rock in once and it took several days to get the bars, cylinder etc. straight. Decent capacity on the flat but running a side hill the sieves were too short to go any speed called fast. I liked mine once I got the unloading auger to work good.
  13. I bought the gasket at Case IH. Get down to the block and take two bolts out diagonally. Get bolts that are 1/2 to 3/4 inch longer and put them in the two empty holes. Then take out the other two and loosen up the longer ones. I think I did it in two steps. Once apart, gently pull out the guts making sure you keep the parts in the correct order--pictures help. The screen to clean is under what looks like a very large flat blade screw. Unscrew it and clean. If there is still a little steel ball in the end, remove and throw away. Hopefully the screen does not fall apart when removing. I used furnace drills from a hardware store to clean the small hole. If I remember correctly is is around .040.
  14. Leave tires on if possible, could be thousand pounds. Two six by and a twelve ton jack will pick a side up easily. but you should be able to do the brakes with it on the ground. level ground if possible. Cab and the loader will make it a challenge.
  15. Ever notice it takes a lot more work to get a bad weld off than good weld--
  16. Red primer, did one with grey and the paint came out a wine type color. Beautiful but not expected.
  17. I hope you did not stop too often with the drill seeding. You will have a gap after each time and a big clump at the stopping point. Only did that once before o got a talking to from dad.
  18. So I am working on the thrust bearings on the lower spindles. Case IH wants 99 a bearing if you find them. Not all stores have them. Other parts houses have a will fit but the outer dimensions are close to a quarter inch each side smaller. Priced at ten to fifteen bucks. I am not keen on doing that but maybe for a tractor that is not going to see extra weight on the front maybe it will not matter much what are your thoughts.
  19. Nice job on the mount. I have a new appreciation for something I thought was common but not that large ours I would have said around 120. Why did the larger ones come about? Was it to handle larger smithing? I am now watching two on an auction site in Mazeppa MN, my old home town. One is around 230 and the other they say is 4-500lbs. Yikes I would hate to have that roll off on your foot.
  20. Got the pump mounted and new hoses. Filled it up and it works good. Power steering was not good so I jacked it up and the right had spindle seemed to bind. Took the wide front off as it needs work and I wanted to narrow it up but some genius decided to weld them in place. What a job. Ran out of acetylene and had to switch to propane as they did not have any gas for the last week and did not know when they were getting more. Oh well, the tip needed changing anyway. Now as it is off it wants to turn so I will pull them apart to see what is going on. Still need to check the gear box for oil but my manual has very little so I get to explore. I have split the axle ends open and it is almost rust welded in place. Some pic as I go. I could buy a different front but what is to say I would have the same trouble narrowing it up.
  21. I used a long bar and was able to shift the rails in mine last week, oiled the rails and spring assemblies. I found the shift lever itself was not moving in the little tower. Soaked it in penetrant and got it freed up. Until I geet the rest moving I will leave it stiff for now.
  22. That is exactly what it should have looked like. All the rest of the parts also look the same. Thanks
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