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About VacDaddyt

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    Advanced Member
  • Birthday April 29

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  • Location
    Hudson Wi
  • Interests
    Working on 560 Farmall, tractor pulls and repairing stuff.

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  1. X 2 on O-ring it has a square profile, it can leak air there.
  2. Rubber band times three. I tried with out and wrecked the bearing and they are not easy to get off the shaft and cost around 125 for a stupid mistake.
  3. Canning companies in southeast MN used large IH for sweet corn pickers. I believe 966 were the usual but I am sure others were used before the Uni systems took over and they then lost out also.
  4. Talked to a guy a while back who was involved in the building of HWY 62 from St. Paul into Minneapolis MN. He said they would drive the hoe out on a pad , swing back around and pick the pad the just got off up and swing it in the direction they were going. By the time the new pad was on the ground the hoe had sank almost up to the back weights of the hoe. From what he said they worked 8-10 hours straight until they found solid ground to stop.
  5. Only consolation is if it was clear and the sun shined this time of year it would get a lot colder--just sayin.
  6. Stick to auger style machines if you are cutting close to the ground. With our clay based soil we had to cut in the morning due to the other chores and the abundance of pocket gophers made a draper head not work due to the dirt getting under the canvases and stretching them eventually plugging at the cover part to keep the dirt up off the bottom of the canvas. Did it with two OMC the newest was a 280, great machine for cutting small grains.I did around 300 acres a year with it in the early 90s. We managed to make it work one year when we were in a drought year. This worked for chopping the best as it did not dry out too fast. If baling get a machine you can spread the swath out.
  7. Good machine, had two. The rolls is the biggest concern. Not a real high speed cutter but cut a lot of hay with one over the years. 1190 is the newer version that had less pto problems with sharp cornering and would float better. New Idea also had versions of them. 990 had the same cutter head as the balanced head mower but a longer cutter bar. A lot better than a PT 10 Heston that we traded in. One of the reasons is if you plug, the rolls will separate so the plug usually goes through.
  8. My first thought would be the draft lever on the clutch side is set wrong or broken. There should be a shaft coming from the mid point of the tractor where the hitch attaches. It should go back to a lever arrangement that is vertical behind the rear axle. With a two bottom I would set it all the way off. The pressure thing I am not sure about.
  9. I believe so. A regular self centering valve will bolt right in the place of the tele depth valve or the cheapest thing would be to use one of the two valves that I see are already in your picture of the tractor. Ours only had one of them so yours is better equipped than ours was. If there is a way to get the lever by the side of the seat to self center by itself changing the valve would be the cleanest way, I am not sure if taking the brake loose is all that it would take and changing the valve. If using a front mounted piece of equipment you would have t for both sides. I am not sure but maybe a handle set up from a 560 with three self centering valves would get the needed lever to move the valve but not sure if it would work . comment--changing it to the way I describe gets it to work but the function of being able to set it to a certain spot and repeats is lost which was a nice feature.
  10. I will get a bit more in depth here. Normal operating pressure is 1200-1300 PSI. The system is a open centered system that is not on pressure until a pilot control circuit built into the valve(s) is closed due to movement of the valve actuator. The flow divider then delivers pressure from the pilot circuit(control circuit). So normally there is little pressure against the pump unless being used to do work. In the pics attached there is a good view of the tele depth valve that when you move the lever one side moves the valve and when the other side catches up the valve will center taking the system off pressure. If you are moving the lever by the seat most the linkage to the valve is good but the feed back is not happening because of the missing parts that are some what shown in the pics from a utility 460 which operates the same but is not necessarily exactly the same( something may still be stuck as one side of the valve is staying in place when you move the quadrant lever. On my larger tractors I put a regular valve on that does not have a quadrant and will self center when you release the handle. Others will chime in and I feel you should try salvage yards as the linkage has enough(variables) to be a real challenge. If you decide to build get the hitch to a center of travel place by dropping it to the floor and then raising to the top of travel measure in between and block the hitch in the center. With the tractor not under pressure get the quadrant to the center and measure what you need for lengths. As you can see in the pics there is a complex arraignment to the linkage. Researching the case ih parts site may give you other tractors that may use the same parts. Like I mentioned in the other post I have not been near the 240 I had in probably 5 years so some things are memories but I used that tractor from the 70s into the 90s.
  11. My brother owns it now and have not been there for some time as my job kinda gets in the way so measurements is a no go for me. I see them for sale, the whole hitch that is, occasionally. I believe there is a small salvage by Lyon Nebraska can't remember the name of it, that had one sitting a few years ago that might have the parts on it. You will have to try salvage yards or the process of trial and error.But that is definitely your problem of why it stays on pressure. You may be able to get a book and do a poor mans copy with a calipers and some standard of measurement to give for size. I guess I am lucky in that my tractors have it complete or just do not have to make it original. They work great when working. The three I have now do not have the linkage and I move the hitch to where I want with the valve that self centers like the one on the front and leave it there. Two have the older style that you set with a depth stop. The IT manual for my 560 has really good picture of the linkage, maybe the 240 manual would also.
  12. Just dropped back in on this thread. If am reading this correctly you move the lever to the right of the seat and then the hitch moves- here I am not sure what you are saying, but the hitch should go up or down and match where the lever is at. It should go on pressure to move and then shut off based on where the lever is left. If you have to move it back to the center then the gear set in the valve is out of time or the linkage that follows the hitch is miss adjusted I guess it could have been changed out to a regular valve at some point. There is a whole section in how to set/time the tele-depth valve in my IT manual. The flow control for pressure usually is not a problem if you can move or bump a lever some place and the noise goes away
  13. So in 98 I put a Buick V6 from a delta 88 in a s10. I put mufflers on from a jd b I think. My daughter was there when the first start happened. It was so loud I shut it off and said no. Kinda was fun but only got 12 mpg because of burning the tires.
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